I am replacing the cylinder head and associated gaskets in my 1989 740 2.3 8v. At the same time, we are replacing the timing belt. This looks fairly straight forward, but I need to know is there anything I need to be aware of? I also need to know torque specs for the head bolts. I am looking at having the new head resurfaced, and .020" shaved off of it. Will this be safe? Thank you guys so much...

BTW, the more I drive this car, the more I like it. It's got 251,000 miles on it, and it runs pretty good. It isn't a fan of this cold stuff we had here (-16*F this morning), but I am beyond happy with the car.

 

The B230 engine is straightforward when replacing the timing belt.

The torque specs for the head bolts are:
Step 1 14ft/lbs 19nm.
Step 2 43ft/lbs 58nm.
Step 3 Additional 90 degrees.

Apply a light coat of oil before inserting the bolts and replace them if they look stretched or have been used 5 times.

As for skimming the head, has this been done before? The minimum head height is 5.732" or 145.59mm. Warpage should not exceed 0.04" or 1.0mm lengthwise nor 0.02" or0.5mm crosswise.

The cylinder head bolt removal and reinstallation sequence:




[IMG]local://upfiles/4491/11BF183EFE6A4B138A4E0CBCD9CED63F.jpg[/IMG]

 

Go to www.stepbystepvolvo.com for free guide to replacing timing belt, tensioner, and oil seals on B230 engine.

 

Thanks for the help, guys. One of our shop technicians is going to help me with it on Saturday morning. How long should this job take? We will have pretty much all the tools one should need. We do NOT have the tool for locking the crank in place, however. I am going to change out the distributor cap & rotor while the head is off. That should make that job a lot easier. Can't say I'm fond of where they stuck the distributor on this engine. One would think that the rear of the head would not be wise.

 

Remove the starter motor and jam the flywheel with a screwdriver. One of you, the non-technical type, will have to go under and hold it in position.

Volvo quotes 1.6 hours for the belt but without the crank lock tool it will take longer.

 

Gotcha. Once again, thank you. I have one more question, and that is, the cam caps, what is the torque specs on those? The cam was removed for the replacement head to be pressure tested. Obviously, too tight is way bad, and too loose won't let oil pressure build. Thanks once more. I intend to take pics just for ****s & giggles on this job, too.

 

Camshaft bearing cap bolt 15 ft/lbs (20nm). Apply a light coat of oil to the bolts before installation.