I'm rebuilding my head, I had my valves, cups, springs, all numbers, in cup'ed edge paper plates, all sitting neatly in a wood box with fairly high edges, gods I wish I used ziplocks... and...imagine just dumping the whole box over.

Cause that's what happened....

I was smart enough to take pics of the valves themselves, as they all have different signs of deposits, rust, carbon, white build up, etc. Those will be easy to put back in the right place. But...those damn cups. It's like someone put them in a shake and bake sack...and shook them them up. All discombobulated. Do I bolt the cam down, and just do it the hard way? measure each one until I find the one with a feeler gauge and it's right?

I can't think of any other way. There's no identifying marks... springs and whatnot.... VX cam from IPD in a 530 head, pulse air/K Jet.

I used to like dogs.

 

if you're rebuilding the head, you'll need to reshim all the valves, anyways.

 

EDIT: So I found the procedure, I can't seem to find the exact clearance specs for I/E valves. I"ll do one at a time, I have a micrometer/sorta o.k. not so great dial caliper/quality feeler gauges. I google B230F or 940 and It ususally takes me to a more modern whiteblock run through, so glad this isn't a DOHC right now... SO I have a VERY good micrometer, the procudure was on the S60? to hold the cam down with the correct feeler gauge, .20 on intake, and I think .032 on exaust or something. Point is it's not the numbers I need to know. I'll keep hunting various forums. But again, to make sure you're getting the gauge to just clear, as in a go/no go situation, and adjust shims using addition subtraction per valve. It was pretty clear, just not for my motor. I just need to know the clearance for the lobes, and go from there, trial and error. Holding it down with hand pressure shouldn't be too bad, and I'm not torquing for running engine spec if I need more ummph. I does have the demyelination so.... sometimes the "little woman" opens a jar for me.

Yeah, I was hoping to get away with not doing that, but you're right.
I'll need to watch a tutorial again, or read up on it. I remember some of the steps, and I'll need that tool from IPD/FCP Euro to depress the shim cups.

Should I just go ouch and order a shim kit? or go one by one to the local parts store, that's an off the shelf item. The kit is like $40.00 and we're counting pennies and brain cells at my house. Seriously, last month I had a 20 lesion onset, so it's hard to describe mild brain trauma.


There's a few YouTube videos. And, files here...

 

My 240 has the valve clearance specs listed on a plate on the drivers side wheel well in the engine compartment. Don't know where it would be exactly on a 940

 

I did find them but thanks. Same motor. I have them on a file/notepad thingy. something like .20 .04 or something, but I got it. Appreciate the heads up though!

My Spidey sense is tingling though...
If this is a "Pulse Air" K jet head on a '94 motor...someone's replaced this head.
So this isn't the first time it's gone. Then again, I did get it for the price of the wheels, tires, and stereo, plus a new coolant system (probably thanks to the good folks at "Bar's Stop Leak" for blocking the old one, and the ports on the head gasket) etc.

I guess if you add ponies and play, you pay. VX cam + lead foot, =broke brick. Hopefully w/sweat equity, and some cool paint seeing I'm rebuilding it, I'd love to pull the block and inspect it, but no facilities or engine hoist. Just sunny driveway.

 

again, pulse air is *NOT* k-jet. k-jetronics (aka CIS-E) was used on VERY early 240's, like pre-1982. All later 240's, 740s, 940s are LH-Jetronics (or some 7/9's are Regina)