So I bought a "new" 1994 940 wagon. Non turbo, Regina ignition, etc. It had been stored with a broken driver's side window by someone who I'm sure abused it for the 20k miles he had it, beat it up, Other than that, it had to be garaged for the majority of it's life. It's in immaculate condition after an oil change vacuum of the rugs, etc.

Here's what needs to be fixed, from what I noticed...I've already done the plugs and wires, and full synth oil change. Runs amazingly well.

FIRST ISSUE-COOLANT LEAK, seems to be the water pump...it started as a small drip only, on the lower AC hose that spans the bottom of the motor bay, but it's gotten worse, I was told when they go they "tell you so", by dripping slowly then more. It's a cheap part, and I'll do the timing belt at the same time. Cheap enough to do both, why not? If it could be any other problem...let me know, but I really think that's it. It's coming directly from under it, and the car smelt a little bit of cooked coolant from the engine case, but not like a blown head gasket, and I checked for all of the signs of a head gasket, still nothing present and it runs like it came off the showroom after the cables and plugs.....almost.
Any tips for the timing belt change? It's got 165k miles on it, but I want to do it to make sure.

NEXT PROBLEM-and what drives me nuts the most-
The Climate control **** doesn't do a thing, as does the re-circulate, nothing stuck on defrost/floor. In all my other wagons, 40's and 60's series it came in and out, on and off, but this is NOTHING at all. I've seen the list of problem solving tips with the hack to cut open the box instead of disabling the dash, but before I do that...what are some of the other tips and or possible causes?

I know to check near the pedals for crushed vacuum hoses, and I took a brief look today, it looks like showroom condition, nothing "looks" crushed...didn't check in front of the firewall. Although the engine bay is very clean, and It was 2 outside today.

I also have heard there is a bellows for the recirculate, that if it isn't working is usually the primary problem. I can see that the bezel for the switches for the vent selector, to be clear mine is the rotary ****, and snowflake A/C button.

ALSO-the blower motor makes a ton of noise, there's a ton of crap, leaves, etc. that was in the air box when I changed the air filter, I sucked that out, so I'm sure it's loaded up in there, not sure it it's contributing the the vent select problem??? I'm fairly sure how to pull the motor, but if there's a tip I don't know or should know, please tell me. I may rebuild, or grease the bearings to reduce the noise, I can tell for sure that there are leaf pieces that get in there, then go, from the flap, flap, flap noise...then less noisy, but not great. Tips welcome, if a rebuild isn't worth is I'll check prices for the motor tonight. The water pump needs to get done obviously, but this drives me absolutely nuts! And yes I do use the recirculate, and I want it to work, especially for the A/C in the 100 degree weather.

NEXT ISSUE- Coming off of the air box, the (I think stock?) air pipe that comes from the air box to the return under the manifold on the left of the motor as you stand in front of it, there's a spring clip for it, appeared to be rotted out, paper/aluminum. It was on there but just, and when totally off, RAN AWFULLY. I found a 6' length of 2 1/8th" I.D. flexible exhaust pipe, bought a down size metal coupler for the manifold end that's a pretty tight fit, but not air tight, and it's HOT there, should I clamp it down air tight? And the air box end fit it lose, I can put aluminum tape or Duck tape on that to seal it....what say you? Is it that important? Seems to run like a top w/new plugs and wires.

ALSO- I've seen some online fixes where they take a cone filter like a big K&N and just slap it on the air box hose, zip tie the small breather hose under it, but then again theirs the return air hose from above...which I also saw had a smaller rigged cone filter as well in the fix I saw online...do it? Or leave it be?

NEXT ISSUE, the window, driver's window. It came w/out one, hence the cheap price. I bought a junk yard one, put it in, and it binds towards the bottom end forcing the door panel to bulge open, unless I pull ever so slightly on the top of the window, as I sit inside the car, pulling it in putting horizontal pressure not down, on the top of the glass as it comes down...then it comes straight down no problems. Other days it just does come down, other days it needs the help. Again, it will need a fix, I'm guessing this has to do with the motor, possibly a plastic gear issue...?

MINOR STUFF- It has no floor mats at all, if there's a preferred brand, I've been salivating on IPD's website, but I may not be able to afford their plastic molded sets...let me know? I like weather mats, not sure why anymore I don't really do much except drive my Son around, but hopefully I'll be back to doing a bit more after they cut my head open.

And the tailgate shocks are dead. My head's been hit enough in this life. That needs fixing, any old brand do? I may wind up keeping this car, it's only got about 165k miles on it, and it's great. Even the heated seats work.

I should mention that a year ago I got M.S. and my cognitive function is not what is was in the past. After the first week of chemo, I could barely complete a sentence so...I'm getting better but...please realize I need clear and descriptive tips folks. I'm still not all there yet. And, I need this car to drive me to Maryland from Connecticut in two weeks to see a specialist in rebuilding my brain and cervical spine. Sorry for the long post/rant. I'm grateful if you read this far, I'm a bit overkill on info and being a former social worker I can type as fast as I talk.

 

the water pump: ONLY use VOLVO brand water pumps and the seals that come in the package, the aftermarket stuff is CRAP and will fail in a year. you do need to confirm where that coolant leak is coming from, not sure what the AC hose has to do with the coolant, unless its just dripping onto it.

the HVAC system: all the vent flappers are vacuum actuated, there's a vacuum line that goes through the firewall and has a 1-way valve, this often fails with age, cheap fix.

the blower fan on a 940 is MUCH easier to access than you seem to think... that 'chainsaw method' was for 240s where its buried deep behind the center console.

that airbox tube is for cold weather driving only... in the bottom of the air filter box there's a temperature actuated flap valve thats closed if its warm, open if its *cold*, this often fails open, I generally use a bit of bailing wire to wire them shut, as letting HOT air from the exhaust manifold heat riser into the system will NOT be good for things. once that flap is closed, then the hose is who-cares, unless you live where they have smog inspections (<cough> california </cough>) and they check to see if its there.

your window probably needs a new regulator assembly, thats the whole 'scissors' thing that lifts/lowers the window, and generally comes with the motor too. you could try a bit of teflon dry lube (I like Blaster brand TDL for this as its very clean) on the window track along the back side of the drivers door, but odds are, new regulator.

K&N FILTERS ARE AWFUL. AVOID AT ALL COSTS. Cone filters are a joke unless you're building a fire-breathing high-boost turbo monster motor. the stock airbox plus stock air filter system breathes VERY well, and can easily provide sufficient air for over twice the stock horsepower.

the molded rubber floor mats are nice in cold/wet/muddy/snowy conditions. you might try the local 'pick and pull' places, keep an eye on any 740/940's coming through (most have a way to get email notifications on new arrivals) and find a set for next to nothing that way.

tailgate shocks are easy, use the Stabilus ones sold by IPDusa.com or FCPeuro.com, they are the factory originals ...

I hope I didn't miss anything, heh, that was a lot of stuff there.

 

Thank you, sometimes I read something I posted a day later and I think...
"Ooops. You still need some more recovery time from all that bad juju they pumped into your spine and veins to kill those lesions." It's an M.S. brain/spine injury thing....I think they call it..."brain damage"? I should have put my little pleading bit at the beginning of my laundry list of requests to explain the following ramblings, but seriously thank you.

One thing I forgot was about spark plug wire sets for the Regina coil, I can't seem to find any aftermarkets that have the right combination of distributor leads, and the right coil cable! It's crazy. I don't know if it's because of the fact I've got a window antenna, and a regina coil? The local dealer said that it was a bosch coil car from the VIN#, but it's got a regina coil in it, and all of the kits seem to either have all of the distributor/coil attachment plugs far too small, or just the coil wire lead is small, the others in spec, or the rubber hood is too big, etc. Weird, I'm making do with a set from the local auto parts place which had the right plug wires, and the existing coil wire, rock auto seems to have a set that looks right, as does partsgeek. The Bougicords on partsgeek look right but again really weird. I can't get too crazy spending $75.00 on OEM wires here, but I need to get something.

I'll check that valve, I seem to remember something dabout that, if you blow into it and air goes both ways it's shot, I think.

Window regulator was the name I couldn't remember last night, but yeah! that thingy. Some days I forget my own zipcode.

It wasn't the blower motor I was talking about, although driving it tonight it's remarkably more quiet which means nothing, I can literally hear pieces of leaves flitter in and out of it from day to day so I'll take it out, clean it see if I can lube it and suck out anything with the shop vac, etc. I can get it out no problem.

What I was talking about was/is the vacuum servos mounted on the driver's side of the center console next to the pedals, it's a hack I saw on volvoclub.org.uk (I don't know if a link to the specific page is a no-no here so I won't, but I'll bet you've seen it) with the plastic housing cut open, then glued shut again, to get at the mount of the servos. But, I'm guessing/hoping that it's the easy part you mentioned. I'll check it and see, I read that if the recirculate isn't working, it's a specific bellows that have failed, not a flap, and also require pretty much taking the whole dash apart. The fix suggested for that was plugging the separate vacuum line, and leaving it on outside air. There's also some part that's a culprit behind/under the glove box? Can't remember the technical name, but it's small too.

And you pretty much nailed everything else right on the head...thank you for reading it all through. My brain thanks you too. The pick your own junk yard tip is genius. Never would have thought of that, until I wish I'd raided my totaled 960 wagon for all the small parts I need now for this thing.

I had no idea on the water pump. Bosch too? IPD sells GMB as well as the OEM Volvo pump, which is about $100.00 which might price me into replacing a $25.00 water pump once a year if need be. And yes, I was talking about it dripping onto the A/C hose from above, not the A/C hose leaking. At first it was literally just a drop, then I came out and there was a small pool under the water pump. I checked the hose clamps, one was lose, so I took it off, recut the hose and clamped the bejezus out of it, but it's still leaking. I'm so broke I can't pay attention... it's a very long story, most of which I can't remember. I just need to make this thing get me to Maryland so I can see if I'll be able to get MYSELF repaired too.

I'm going to do the timing belt too, might as well be safe.
Thank you so much for your clear and timely response! You rock. If you ever need social work information, friends, family, etc., somewhere in my brain is a whole lot of really neat info. If I can find it, I'd love to return the favor some day.

Adrian-

 

Is your distributor in the back of the head OR on the side a la 240? That causes confusion getting parts. If it is a side one, get 240 wires...

Water pump leak: probably needs just a "reseal" rather than a new pump--very common and the kit costs $5. I see a lot of that and I don't discard the pump just for the sake of the leaking rubber donut on top, especially if it's a good quality part.

Timing belt: No need to do it "just because"! Address your real problems first!

Blower fan: Take out the leaves plugging the intake! You won't know about the motor until then. Remove the leaves from above, going through the cowling and also repairing the screen which is no doubt fallen thus letting all the leaves in. The procedure you saw and refer to applies to 760/960 cars, ignore that!
Make sure the one way valve is operational.

Air box hose: don't worry about it, not needed. Your car has no thermo flap there, BUT hose is a smog item--depending where you are it may be needed (like in California).

Window: You replaced it with a junk yard one, did you instal it correctly? The riveting needed is sometimes difficult. Did you inspect it prior to installation for extra play in the "cross"? These usually need some careful "tuning"--there is a slight adjustment, and good lubing all around is called for to assure function. Also the door panel installation has some finer points and if not put on perfectly it may cause what you describe...

 

All I/we did was take out the broken glass, put in the new window with the plastic side clips, made sure to use the non broken ones, seemed to be crushed on top. I did no riveting, or tuning. I'm not even aware of how it would be done, so no I probably did not put the window in correctly. There is no rubber on the inside of the window either, the door panel on the driver's side has it missing. But, it did the binding with the panel OFF the car too.

 

As I thought, you have a side distributor, like a 240. They are rare, but not so rare, I got two of them in my driveway right now. When you source cap, rotor and wires, ask for Volvo 240 parts to cut on the confusion.

I'd investigate your car for possible head gasket problem; based on the description you may have too much compression blowing into the cooling system. Take a compression or leak down test to make sure you don't have a HG problem.

So you replaced the glass only, not the regulator. Still, lube up all the runners, channels, etc. Spray WD40 in the channels where the glass slides up and down. The regulator, the actual mechanism that the glass is mounted on, a scissor type may be worn out and creating problems. That is the part that needs to riveted in and out. But just the glass replacement should not lead to binding even with a moderately worn regulator--you may have done something wrong. Is the door panel on right? Make sure!

 

I rented a block test kit from the autoparts store, I've got the fluid from the local store that checks for compression gases.

Here's the deal. It does leak from the hoses, sometimes...and it seems to be pressure, but the lower big return hose needs to be re cut, and clamped. The hoses are not new, but not shot either. I get back flow into the reservoir when I squeeze any of the hoses. Most recent it leaked from the lower hose. So, I'm going to test the coolant for compression gases in the fluid. It runs fine, but it seems to have more than normal pressure, but....I don't fully understand how the Volvo redblock cooling works...why would the expansion tank(overflow?) be under pressure even when its cold? Is that at all normal? Usually when you open a system in another car is cold, and you open the radiator....it's fine, and the overflow is never under pressure..., but this seems like more of a closed loop system you know? The car really runs well.

However, and here's where I get a sinking angry feeling, the other night I was using a small penlight to check the coolant, which by the way looks to be very clean/new....as in pumped out/flushed. So...I notice tiny sparkles, almost like glitter? And I think metal wear? From the water pump? But it's all uniform in size and really small...and it almost seems like there might have been a tiny slick of oil? Then later it hits me, and I hope I'm wrong, but....that “glitter?" could very well be copper from one of those stopleak headgasket additives like Bar's. I REALLY hope not, this guy assured me it WAS not tbe headgasket, but...people lie too. Still, I hope I'm being paranoid and it's just something I don't understand, and it's not that major. Like needing a headgasket.

 

Well, it's that extra pressure that prompted me to recommend looking into the head gasket. Modern cars though do have the overflows under pressure--they are connected to the system at all times and the system is pressurized, but not immediately upon start up.

Do this: start the car with the coolant cap off and see if there is an instant geisering out of the opening. If there is, you have compression blowing into the cooling system through the HG. Having some metal may be OK, depends on how much, I can't see that. Did you take a compression test?

 

I did a block test, twice. No headgasket leak. No compression gases in the coolant. And the thing works well, ask me how I know. The hoses, to me anyway and I could be wrong, seem to expand a lot for radiator hoses.

Today, I went out to do the test this a.m. and when I took the cap off the overflow, two drops of coolant dropped on the cardboard I keep under the engine/radiator right under the water pump, bottom hose outlet. Thing is, I can't see if it's the water pump or just the hose. It could be as simple as tightening the bottom clamp or re-cutting that hose. I did the top, but not the bottom. I was going to see if I could drain it, do it all. But we'll see. It's just weird. Take pressure off at the filler cap, and then it leaks. Same thing as it cooling off, the it leaks after I'v come home. Strange pattern of behavior for this, I just don't get it.

I had a toyota earlier this year, an '05 Matrix blow a headgasket, and it's reservoir wasn't under pressure, and I was worried about that.

Keep in mind that the guy I bought this from was NO mechanic I mean, neither am I...but yanking on parts till they break (see bezels on door, etc.) isn't good, and you can see that anything he touched was just crapped up and totally hamfisted. So the bright bits in the coolant could be coolant leak stop too. For the radiator. People put a lot of faith into "Pour this crap in and it will make things better..." so...no idea.

I think it's got something to do with the overflow/expansion tank. Or just that the lower hose isn't clamped enough.