Hello ,

Im trying to gauge my valves and ran into spec problems.
According to the specs for the order of my Haynes manual it states to bring the #1 piston (closest to radiator) to TDC by rotating the crank to line up the notch in the pulley with the zero on timing scale, then it states to repeat for 3,4,2.
so Im being lead to believe that my firing order is 1,3,4,&2. Only thing is when I took off and followed the plug wires the order is 2,1,3,4. When I lined up the notch clockwise to the Zero on the timing scale the first set of exhaust and inlet lobes where facing down (Refer to picture 1a and 1b). Not up as the picture in the manual shows. (refer to picture 2) When I did turn the crank clockwise so the lobes match the picture in the book I got a .016 snug fit reading on the gold feeler gauge as the 0.010 silver gauge had to much play and the next feeler in the silver set went from 0.010 to 0.024 and was too thick. Did I buy the wrong set.

So here's my questions: Is the order of pistons 1,2,3,4, 1 being closest to radiator and four furthest away and the order 2,1,3,4 is the Firing order. And, do I just turn the crank to lift up the # 1 piston to as close as I can get as pic shows and do that for all in order as the book states= 1,3,4,2,. Or do I turn as close as pic shows and gauge for 2,1,3,4 the order that my car is set. Because when I line up number 1 to TDC , notch to zero mark, the lobes are down not up. Number 2 are up. Does it really matter what lobes I gauge first, or can I gauge the lobes that are up at TDC, turn 1/2 and gauge the next to be up.

This is my first time doing this and the book through me off with the order of 1,3,4,2 and TDC not raising the number one.

Please Scroll down to view attachment photos.

 

firing order of 2-1-3-4 is the same as 1-3-4-2, just starting in a different place.

2-1-3-4-2-1-3-4-2-1-3-4-......

and yes, piston 1 is the closest to the front of the car...

 

When I do a valve adjustment/check all I do is turn the engine until any lobe is pointing up. That means the gap between the lobe and the valve is at it's greatest. Write it down and go to the next one that is just starting to point up. Turn the crank a little until it's pointing up and continue till you do all 8. Doesn't matter which cylinder as long as the lobe is up. This way you can do it a lot faster with less turning. And your measurement of .016 is right within specs.

 

So I can rotate to TDC and whatever one is up start from there and then give a half turn then do the next one that is up and so on and I will be fine.

Also , If my 88 Volvo 740 is at 0.010 -.016 I can just leave the shims alone. The specs being from 0.09 - 0.64. I dont know how it could ever be at .64 but anyway if they are then Im good?

Thank you for your help.

What would you try to set it at, and how?

 

You seem to be over killing this adjustment. It is a simple task and a simple guide is thinner shim gives you a larger clearance and a thicker shim gives you a smaller (tighter) clearance (gap). Turn the highest part of the cam lob straight up from the tappet and measure the gap. Rotate the crank until the next lob is high and measure the gap. It's only 8 valves so it should take you 10 minutes to measure all of them. Now go to the spec and see what you have. I usually set to the middle number (or around it) of the spec. I have 360K miles on our 89 740 and stopped doing valve adjustments after 175K as they don't move at all. These are low HP , low torque engines so performance isn't the concern. If your gap is .005 and your shim is .015 and you want the gap to be .010 then you need to remove .005 from the shim number.