I posted the following in July, now have a Mountaineer 302 hanging in the engine bay and have questions.

"Been wanting to put a V8 in my 1982 245 Diesel Wagon for the 12 years since the engine died. . . . Found a 2000 Mountaineer 302/transmission in a local recycling yard. It has 11k miles, been in inside storage for 8 years and would include everything from fan to drive shaft, including wiring harness and computer, MAFS to O2S and all accessories ie: alternator, starter, PS pump, AC compressor. Would like to end up with a car that looks factory. Seen pictures of very good ones and others. . . . Would you folks comment on how deep a hole I am digging myself? The wife has said get it running or get rid of it."

The engine/transmission appear that they would fit the engine bay fine if I had a smaller oil pan. Pulled the pan and the engine slipped right in but there was not room to put the pan back on. Pulled engine, installed pan and dropped front cross member/suspension. Now cannot raise cross member without raising engine above hood height.

Discussed with friendly, neighborhood salvage yard and they did not show a lower profile pan. The Explorer/Mountaineer appears to be built with no consideration to lower space due the high ground clearance. What other Ford/Mercury products using the 302 might have a smaller pan? Or am I missing something entirely?

 

If nobody posts here, might want to check out turbobricks. they deal with swaps more than here.

The 302 motor fits onto the stock subframe? uses the stock motor mounts?
I would assume you need to modify the crossmember/subframe. notch it and weld it?

wait for the experts to get on.

 

The 302 was built for eons and in many different chassis.
What I would do is take a couple of photos of engine in frame, from underneath, side on etc and find a good Ford forum and ask what pan will suit.
There'll be something from a van or similar that will work, but be sure to also ask about what pick up tube to use too!

Regards, Andrew.

 

Any chance they make a dry sump oil system for that engine? That may allow you to use a smaller pan or at least one that doesn't drop down as much?

 

A dry sump system will be a minimum $1k just in parts, then you have to fit an oil pump somewhere onto the accessory drive on the front of the engine etc,......

Regards, Andrew.

 

I would buy the Converse Kit. http://www.converse-engineering.com/

 

The solution is to use the pre '94 double slump oil pan and oil pick up tube from a Mustang/Thunderbird.

That was easy, found the oil pan on eBay for $5. On to the clearance on the center firewall and relocate the heater hose inlets on the firewall.

Gotta wait until it warms up some. Car is half out of the garage to allow use of an engine crane. After I get it inside can turn on the heat.

 

I'd like to see photos of all this, or perhaps a build thread?
Next cheapo 7/9 series I come across with a bad drivetrain, I am going to build a tow vehicle.

Regards, Andrew.

 

Please forgive the bump but I am still searching for someone that is doing a Ford 302 into a 240 to solve mutual problems. I am ready to design the motor mounts so I can close the garage door and have this thing finished by Spring.

 

OK, got the Fox body Mustang oil pan and pick up tube installed. Resolved the heater valve hose clearance with a couple formed 5/8" 90 degree hoses for less than $8.

Keep trying the engine and suspect clearance issues with the cast iron exhaust manifold. Found several 'block hugger' headers ranging from $89 to $300. Anyone know if I can make the OEM manifolds work or which of the 'hugger' headers best addresses this issue?

Stay tuned . . . I am going to get this done. I am taking pictures and will paste up a conversion site.

 

Spent several snowy days researching headers. The stock iron headers, especially on the right side just can't seem to compromise with the range of engine locations.

Sanderson seems to have the best dimensions displayed along with pictures. http://www.sandersonheaders.com/

I would appreciate anyone comments on the use of their FF1 or FF3 headers. Because of the GP40P heads these two are the only ones in their inventory that will allow spark plug changes. They even volunteered to mix the two, L & R if that helps.

I would also be appreciative of any other suggestions on other manufacturers. I find a number of new header for sale on eBay due to fitting problems. Don't want to join that club.

 

I just found this post from 3 years ago and thought I should update it should anyone care. I did get past the pan clearance issue and about a hundred more unsolvable others. The car is now finished and used as a daily driver. A build thread turned into a engine swap manual posted on TurboBricks and found here: Volvo's That Run - Turbobricks Forums

The IPD Volvo performance and parts supplier featured the build in their customer blog here: Customer Feature - Tom Porter 1982 245

Thanks to the hundreds of folks that chimed in when I was stuck over and over.

 

Nice! I remember when you started this. I'm glad to see it's going!

 

Working on same project.
Have rusty '83 242 Turbo and super clean '84 242 DL stripper, so lots of Volvo spares. Bought unused Converse swap kit for Mustang 5.0, unfortunately it's for an auto trans car so need info for manual trans/clutch issues. Looking for rusty/wrecked '88 thru '93 Mustang complete car donor for ECU, A/C, etc, but going slowly due to lack of space and don't want to bug neighbors with yet another car parked in drive way! so spending time on body, paint, suspension, etc. Have a growing pile of lightly used parts; drop center diesel front sway bar, (also much fatter Mustang item), T5 trans, BBK shorty headers, etc, from neighbors building drag race Mustang, (I live in Dearborn, Mich, go figure!)
Ross Converse is nowhere to be found; website dead, phone dead, IPD says they haven't heard from him in years, say they heard he moved to California, some say Florida, one said he heard he was dead, so I guess I'm outta luck on manual trans info from him. Kit was "iffy" even at vastly reduced price. Will gladly photocopy auto trans info in trade for manual trans/clutch info. (check copyright first!)
Check "Kapelhenke Racing" for chassis stiffening parts, etc

 

I would make the same recommendation that I received early in this thread; post on TurboBricks. That forum has a lot more swap threads/posters than here.

Michael Yount is a very helpful and frequent poster there driving a 302/T56 that he has had for a long time.