Update:
Replaced the corroded negative battery cable with a new IPD-purchased one, and it starts like a charm. Positive battery cable still looks ok. Also changed ignition rotor for good measure. Thanks everyone!

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Hi All at Volvo Forum and thanks for your replies and assistance,

I have a manual 240 1983 volvo wagon m46. Recently, I replaced the plugs, plug wires, ignition coil wire, replaced the distributor cap, fuel pump relay, and cleaned up some of of the contacts on the battery cables. Within the last year or two, I replaced the battery. Within the last five years, I replaced the alternator, starter, intank and main fuel pumps. The fuel filter has probably not been replaced in the last couple of years but certainly within the last five years.

It takes a few cranks to start sometimes, but it does better if I have recently driven the car or if I cycle the key a few times. Once started, it drives fine, no issue and never stalls. I also never lose power while driving, so I do not think it is a fuel pump. I recently replaced the negative battery cable, but I think the splice for the ground is not very good, so I am going to replace the battery cable with one from IPD which doesn't require splicing. Any ideas on what else might be causing this issue?

Thanks in advance!

 

My 89 cranks about 4~5 cycles before start, I remember it's a ECU related problem, common issue , the other 84 starts about 2~3 cycles (but even for the 5 cranks, its about 1 sec or 2). I would say check relays and groundings, not just the battery cable, 240 has many ground points, especially the one from the engine to the firewall. If the relays are weak, or the grounding is weak, the relay might eventually starts working but it will take some time. I remember the 84 had problem with overdrive relay, if I knock on it, it will engage, but on it's own, it's half half, little electronic spray cleaner fixed that.

 

I know the ecu has been replaced in the last 5-10 years, but I think it might be a ground too. I’m going to replace the cable and make sure all the grounds are solid. And update this post. Thanks!

 

You are welcome! Hope you figure out soon.

 

If the start problem is intermittent with the key I would replace the key switch. Many times this switch requires shaking or twitching the key for it to make good contact. Even if that's not the problem now it is common for this switch to ware out in older models.

The switch is held onto the back of the key lock by two slotted screws. There is just one large round electrical connector on the back to unplug.

The other possibility is the main fuel pump relay. It is know for bad electrical socket contacts and cracked internal solder joints. The relay may be easily bypassed, for testing, on the fuse panel if you look up the wiring diagram.