I have been driving Mercedes Diesel for a while now. Before I got into MB I always considered Volvo. They seem like long lasting nice old cars.

Now that kids have filled our little '87 300D Turbo w124 Sedan which I've really enjoyed and will probably keep it til it drops it's time for a wagon. So I'm considering buying my first Volvo.

I know the old 240s are super popular and a lot are still on the road. But I've also looked at the 740 and 70 wagon. I've never driven one.

So...

What am I looking for? What are one of the easy to work on, reliable and cost effective to maintain models?

In Diesel MB, the early 90's era 350SDL is known to enthusiasts as a car to avoid. It's known as the 'rod bender'. Most other MB diesels are accepted as good cars. Is there a Volvo year/model I'll want to avoid?

Also, what should I expect in these areas:

-MPG with a gasoline wagon
-Miles until rebuild on average for major parts in the drivetrain
-Cost to pay for a decent condition 90's 740 Wagon
-What I'll be needing to replace on a 10-20 year old car with 150k miles or so?

Thanks in advance!! I have enjoyed MB's diesel quality (especially the w123's) now it's time to check out a Volvo.

edit: oh and one other thing.... with MB diesels it's pretty much work on it yourself or.... big $$$$ for repairs. But fortunately they're cake to work on and it feels good when you're done. Is it the same with Volvo? How are they as far as being mechanical vs. electronically controlled? I'm assuming the gasoline stuff is pretty electronic since the early 80's or so?

 

I am far from a Volvo expert, but I do own a 1998 V 70 GLT. I also owned the same MB that you have (87 300D Turbo, wonderful car). I have owned the Volvo for a couple months now, and can share what I have seen so far.

There are no 'major' issues with the car like the one you mention. There are a TON of minor issues to watch out for. The V 70 was just an extension of the 740, many parts / issues are the same. There was an 'experiment' Volvo did on these cars from 99-03 with an electronic throttle (drive by wire) that did not work out too well, and some caution to avoid these cars. I see some fixes are in the works and personally would not shy from those cars, but I may be a glutton for punishment.

IMHO, the Volvo engineers tend to overthink / overtink things like MB does, but they don't do it quite as well. Many problems come from an environmental oversensitivity (much like the trap oxidizer on your 87MB). The PCV system is so overtinked that it can take a weekend away from you to clear it out. The door locks fail with impunity, and take a $135 bite each time they do. There is a secondary air system, which includes a $365 hairdryer that is pretty much accepted to fail every hundred thousand miles or so... has zero effect on the car, just gives you and annoying 410 code that you have to re-set often...

The interior in your MB probably looks like it did when it rolled off of the show room several hundred thousand miles ago... not so much with Volvo. For instance, they used some pretty brittle plastics on the interior that break easily, they used some eco-friendly glue on the door panels that breaks down with age and the sunvisors pivot pins are plastic and wear out (Another $135 for a visor to correct). I suspect the plastics engineer wanted the car to fit in the re-cycle bins some day and compromised accordingly.

I bought mine knowing it needed a new front end (all but the spindles re-newed in the wheel wells). Whatever you buy, unless it comes with solid proof of replacement you will need to do a timing belt change immediately. If they break (and they do break) you will have bent valves or worse.

Having said all that, and having spent 2 weeks solid working on mine before I put iton the road.... I now have a strong running, comfortable car with a few glitches to work out. It is easy on the eyes (IMHO, my wife does not care for the looks). It gets reasonable mileage, has a ton of interior space, rides and handles well, and inspires confidence in case of an accident.

I like the 97 740 - 98 V70 for the SIPS (Side Impact Protection System) but understand some of the earlier 740's used the same system sans airbag... with just a re-enforced door). If I were looking for a childhauler, I would probably want the car I have now. I like the looks of the XC-70's, but would not want the extra moving parts the AWD carries.

Again, this is just one guys view / experience and there are many more knowledgeable about these cars here then me.

 

V70 is like a 740 like, well, they can't be more different as far as cars go, starting with the fact that one is FWD versus RWD and going ftom there to another era of manufacturing philosophy!
I personally love the 740/940 line and used to be into MBZ so I know the 123/124 series. I don't do FWD Volvos, I find them, well, too much like a Hyundai...
The 940 is newer, and the last Volvo to use the good 4cyl motor until 1995 in the US market. Basically, now these two are the same, the 740 and 940. 740 was dropped in the US in '92.
The Volvo 740/940 is less refined than the MBZ, but also very easy to maintain and repair. Materials are somewhat brittle plastics in some interior pieces but some TLC and they are fine.
I like the non turbos myself, but the turbos are by no means problematic-just get worse mileage, under 20mpg vs 23 or so for the NAs.
The ones to avoid are the 6cyl, especially the early ones, up to 1990. The 960 is better but I still stay away from it, 1992+.
Drivetrains last forever, I had one, a 240 with 378kmiles that was fine, and have seen many more with 250+k miles that keep on. Trannys are in the later models AW(Aisin Warner) japanese made and ok for a long time with a good maintenance (fluid change) which is very simple to do every 30K. Headgasket is got to be the easiest for any modern car, and the timing belt if ti breaks causes no damage.
I think $3-4k should get you a decent 740/940 wagon in most locales but hurry because they are getting scarcer, especially the wagons. One with 150k and lack of previous torture should have a lot of life left in it. Don't worry about the drivetrain as much as the overall condition which if trashed can get pricey and work intensive to correct: bumpers hanging, door pockets, window regulators, headliner, lenses, etc.
How much it would need? Well, a good maintenance catch-up is always the start. Also, may be some suspension like bushings and such. While at this, I'd avoid the cars with IRS (independent rear suspension). All their rear components are pricey and hard to get. I like those "Pick-Your-Own" junkyards where for the moment these cars are plentiful, and parts are cheap. If you are used to working on a MBZ you'll have no problems with the Volvos-it will be a labor of love!!!

 

Not much to add to that
+10