Hello everyone. While working on changing the fuel filter on my '89 745T, I noticed this lovely connector on the right, near my overdrive unit:

As you can see, one of the wires is broken completely (from me poking at it) and the rest are looking really bad. Yes, there is plenty of grime and nastiness everywhere from a loose turbo oil return line. My questions are: Is this connector only related to the overdrive, or does it connect to other stuff? Will the car still run with this connector like this? What is the best way to fix this, remove the connector entirely or find a new connector somehow?

Thanks y'all.

 

i think that connector has the reverse/park/neutral switch on it but I'm playing refugee right now in my RV, and the PC with my copy protected volvo schematics is packed in my truck... We had to evacuate last night for the CZU Lightning FIre complex so we're taking a road trip...

 

Thanks pierce, I hope you are staying safe. That is an aptly named RV! If it makes any difference, my Volvo is a manual transmission M46. I do seem to recall my reverse lights not working last time I checked. I just assumed it was the bulbs.

 

Got any tips on how I should go about fixing this? I can't seem to find these connector housings for sale anywhere. Maybe just cut the connector out and solder the wires together?

 

if you can't repair the existing connector, I'd consider getting a 'delphi weatherpack' or similar multiterminal connector with sufficient pins and splicing the wires to it... document the pinout on a page stuck in the back of the owners manual, or whatever packet of info you keep with the car. they are nice high quality weatherproof connectors, the pins support a range of wire gauges, and are crimped, then inserted into the shells. they come with almost any number of pins you want from 2 to 12 or more pins. they have rubber seals you slide over the wires before you crimp the pin/soscket on, then you insert the pin or socket into the shell til it clicks, then you slide the weatherproof plug into the hole behind the pin/socket.

 

p.s. you can fake your way to a good crimp using needlenose, and then soldering. using the right style crimper is much faster for production, of course.




the yellow tool lets you remove a pin or socket from the shell, its really just a tube of exactly the right size to push the barbs back in so the pin will back out of the shell.