Won't start in cold weather or starts hard
#1
Won't start in cold weather or starts hard
Hello,
I've had my 1986 Volvo 244 GL for over a year now and every time the weather gets below 70 ( or rains) it gives me trouble starting. I've changed the fuel pump and filter, checked the fuses and changed the relay. I'm very confused. I don't know what else to do. I've had several mechanics look at it and they all seem dumbfounded! Anyone know why this is happening?
I don't know if this could be connected but I'm also having trouble with my tail light on the left side and my brake light on the right! Please, any information would really be appreciated!
I've had my 1986 Volvo 244 GL for over a year now and every time the weather gets below 70 ( or rains) it gives me trouble starting. I've changed the fuel pump and filter, checked the fuses and changed the relay. I'm very confused. I don't know what else to do. I've had several mechanics look at it and they all seem dumbfounded! Anyone know why this is happening?
I don't know if this could be connected but I'm also having trouble with my tail light on the left side and my brake light on the right! Please, any information would really be appreciated!
#4
There are two engine coolant sensors on your car; one is for the gauge, the other is for the ecu to enable the ecu to control fuel flow/richness. When it fails, often it will not start in coolish weather. Both sensors are located under the intake manifold. The gauge sensor, which you don't want to examine, is located by cylinder two. The ECS is located by cylinder # 3. Not only can the sensor itself fail, the connector can often fail for a couple of reason. One, the tiny contacts can corrode and/or get bent by marauding "mechanics". Additionally, Volvo did not leave much slack in that portion of the harness. Under strain, the potting within the connector can crumble and fail, allowing a poor connection.
Finally, it has been my personal experience that often times, no single sensor may actually test "dead". What I have seen is 2 or 3 sensors all test on the low side of marginal. The combined, synergistic effect of minimal input by these marginal sensors can create the same results as a single failed sensor. Keep in mind, the O2 sensor is the last bastion for the injection system. While there are a half dozen sensors informing the ecu of input variable, it is the lowly O2 sensor in its rear guard position, who's job it is to tell the ecu what the results are. A bad O2 sensor will cause any number of symptoms as will a marginally good or "lazy" sensor. The O2 is relatively cheap, easy to swap, and is something I would change out first unless you know it to be newish. Even so, I'd test it to make certain it is healthy.
Finally, it has been my personal experience that often times, no single sensor may actually test "dead". What I have seen is 2 or 3 sensors all test on the low side of marginal. The combined, synergistic effect of minimal input by these marginal sensors can create the same results as a single failed sensor. Keep in mind, the O2 sensor is the last bastion for the injection system. While there are a half dozen sensors informing the ecu of input variable, it is the lowly O2 sensor in its rear guard position, who's job it is to tell the ecu what the results are. A bad O2 sensor will cause any number of symptoms as will a marginally good or "lazy" sensor. The O2 is relatively cheap, easy to swap, and is something I would change out first unless you know it to be newish. Even so, I'd test it to make certain it is healthy.
#5
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