I have replaced the trap. This happened after I did a long overdue oil change and dumped some Marvel Mystery oil into the crankcase to quiet the lifters. Huge amounts of oil now leak out when running. Looks like rear seal problem. I am going to end up replacing rear seal and camshaft seal. Anyone know where I can get a write up on this procedure. It is either that or I part this thing out.

P.S. It did not leak before the oil change.

 

Without knowing more, I would say why is it leaking from a seal you did not work on, instead of the obvious places that you did work on - i.e. oil filter and drain plug. Are you sure the leak is not coming from either of those?

 

Quite sure. Had it up on a buddy's lift. Dripping out of the bellhousing area. It is oil, not tranny fluid. There is some leakage from the camshaft seal area. But it will leave a large puddle after idling for only a few minutes. I do know that a clogged PC trap will cause excessive crankcase pressure and the pressurized oil will come out of the seals. Its got 205,000 on the motor.

 

Make sure the pcv circuit is not clogged?

I think the way to do this is blow down the flame trap hose (into the oil separator box, which is connected to the crankcase) and make sure air comes out of the oil fill cap area.

 

I definitely will try that before replacing seals. Maybe the Marvel Mystery Oil, which is an oil thinner, released some gunk that has it clogged. Thanks for the advice.

 

I would start by replacing the rear cam seal. The intake side usually does not have a seal, in place of an intake cam seal, the cap uses RTV and snaps into place, maybe the mystery oil softened a seal, or dissolved the sealant on the intake cam cap. I use a seal on the intake side and RTV on the cap.

As instructed make sure your oil vent system is working properly, then I would start with the easiest seals first, the cams. There can be quite a bit of oil that passes thru the exhaust seal, so maybe that is where it is coming from.

I had a leak in the head gasket, there is a passage at the rear which allows the head oil to drain back into the sump. That passage is very close to the edge of the head at the rear. My head gasket leaked there, leaving a puddle of oil that accumulated over night. With a little pressure build up in the crankcase by blow-by, that oil would be forced out under a few pounds of pressure when running.

DanR '94 964 387,000 miles (153,000 on the new engine)

 

Stopped the leak. Blew out the oil trap as suggested. Still leaked. Put a can of Snake Oil ( my term for wrench in a can ) in the crankcase. Still leaked a puddle. Instructions said the solution could take lots of driving before full effect. Well didn't take all that much. Now it is dry as a bone. Yes, I topped off the oil. Ha ha. Ran it enough to find my water leak. The heater control valve disintegrated. Got a universal replacement from Rock Auto and fixed the leak. Now I need to find the newly discovered bogging from low idle rpm to speed transition. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

Found the bogging problem. Was about to run out of gas. Runs fine now, except for the check engine light looking at me.

 

Which stop leak did you use ?
I used Blue Devil. I hated to do it, but otherwise the car would have ended up in the boneyard.

 

It is a product made by ATP

 

Disconnecting the battery for a few seconds and then reconnecting will sometimes clear the OBD memory.You will have to reset the radio code