1996 Volvo 960 - Noise from Steering Wheel
I have to type of notices coming from th engine compartment.
1. When the car is cold, noise comes from the steering wheel. (I assume it is an air leak) an goes away when engine is worm.
2. This noise is enigma to me. The screeching noise comes from this unit, right next to the Air filter. It happens randomly and when keys are inserted with Rdaio on and no engine running.
Appreciate some suggestions.
1. When the car is cold, noise comes from the steering wheel. (I assume it is an air leak) an goes away when engine is worm.
2. This noise is enigma to me. The screeching noise comes from this unit, right next to the Air filter. It happens randomly and when keys are inserted with Rdaio on and no engine running.
Appreciate some suggestions.
Thanks for the reply.
1. Yes, because I have fluid leak in the steering wheel, and when I look at the fluid, it has air bubbles until the engine worms up. (My mechanic advised me just to monitor the fluid level, in lieu of costly repair).
2. I don't think the noise is from the headlight wipers. Because the I hear the noise directly from this unit.
1. Yes, because I have fluid leak in the steering wheel, and when I look at the fluid, it has air bubbles until the engine worms up. (My mechanic advised me just to monitor the fluid level, in lieu of costly repair).
2. I don't think the noise is from the headlight wipers. Because the I hear the noise directly from this unit.
Agree in the wiper motor. I seriously doubt the charcoal canister would make any sort of noise when cold.
The sterring wheel noise is probably low fluid too as Tech said. If it's a high pitched or high frequency noise, probably fluid, but old, worn steering racks can thud and judder a bit when cold too.
Regards, Andrew.
The sterring wheel noise is probably low fluid too as Tech said. If it's a high pitched or high frequency noise, probably fluid, but old, worn steering racks can thud and judder a bit when cold too.
Regards, Andrew.
Andrew and others.
Thanks you for the input. First I will check the rubber hoses for cracks, to and from the two units. Then turn on the engine and, and while cold, turn the steering wheel to listen to the source of the noise. In the past I did spray a lubricant on the engine belt, and seemed to have helped for a while.
The fluid leak seem to stop just at the "cold" marking line on the fluid cap.
I will appreciate any more suggestions. All the best.
Levi
Thanks you for the input. First I will check the rubber hoses for cracks, to and from the two units. Then turn on the engine and, and while cold, turn the steering wheel to listen to the source of the noise. In the past I did spray a lubricant on the engine belt, and seemed to have helped for a while.
The fluid leak seem to stop just at the "cold" marking line on the fluid cap.
I will appreciate any more suggestions. All the best.
Levi
UPDATE
After following the above, I did find that, one of the headlamp wipers was stuck on one place, and noise came from the wiper-motor trying to move wiper. To verify the problem, I pulled the wipers back from the glass (hanging in the air), and the noise did go away.
In regards to the steering wheel noise. It still there, but not too bad. Meanwhile, from time to time I add fluid with sealant, which seem to help over time to stop air leaking into the fluid.
After following the above, I did find that, one of the headlamp wipers was stuck on one place, and noise came from the wiper-motor trying to move wiper. To verify the problem, I pulled the wipers back from the glass (hanging in the air), and the noise did go away.
In regards to the steering wheel noise. It still there, but not too bad. Meanwhile, from time to time I add fluid with sealant, which seem to help over time to stop air leaking into the fluid.
I am sorry to disturb you again. After I took care of the other noise (from the headlamp wiper), not I am hearing new noise from the are where the red arrow indicates. It comes sporadically, and mainly when engine is cold.
I have 20,000 more miles before the Timing Belt needs replacement.
I have 20,000 more miles before the Timing Belt needs replacement.
I would pull the top timing belt cover and have a look. Could be the belt rubbing or frayed.
Post a photo here if need be.
Belts should be replaced on time in service as well as mileage, so if it's a low mileage car, it's probably due a new belt anyway.
Regards, Andrew.
Post a photo here if need be.
Belts should be replaced on time in service as well as mileage, so if it's a low mileage car, it's probably due a new belt anyway.
Regards, Andrew.
after following typhoon & tech suggestion. Timing Belt seem in good shape.
I tend to believe, the noise is due to the low level of fluid. (I do confirm, there is a leak in my steering wheel fluid). I also have noticed, the fluid turns whitish color (most likely air bubbles), which goes away after the engine worms up. The houses to and from the reservoir look in good shape and dry.
Can anyone suggest, which of those fluids out there, which has the best quality to plug minor leaks.
thanks again
I tend to believe, the noise is due to the low level of fluid. (I do confirm, there is a leak in my steering wheel fluid). I also have noticed, the fluid turns whitish color (most likely air bubbles), which goes away after the engine worms up. The houses to and from the reservoir look in good shape and dry.
Can anyone suggest, which of those fluids out there, which has the best quality to plug minor leaks.
thanks again
You need to check that out ASAP. My pulley was squeeling and it was almost locked up. Here is a post from what I found: https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-260-760-960-28/squealing-engine-compartment-37827/
My t-belt looked pretty new but when I pulled it off, I could hardly move my roller with both hands. It was just about locked up. Then my tensioner pulley was very loose, like it had not grease left in it. It would spin freely with hardly no force to turn it. I think it would have soon burned out the bearings and maybe even popped off. Either was causing damage to the belt, probably would not have lasted to much longer before I would have damaged the belt and busted the engine.
My belt had about less than 30,000 miles on it but the pulley was shot. I think that messed up my water pump. IMO, I think the belts need replace every 70,000 or seven years and the tensioner, pulley, and roller needs to be replaced every 10 years or with the belt. It's just not worth the risk of messing up something with a bad roller, pulley, etc.
My t-belt looked pretty new but when I pulled it off, I could hardly move my roller with both hands. It was just about locked up. Then my tensioner pulley was very loose, like it had not grease left in it. It would spin freely with hardly no force to turn it. I think it would have soon burned out the bearings and maybe even popped off. Either was causing damage to the belt, probably would not have lasted to much longer before I would have damaged the belt and busted the engine.
My belt had about less than 30,000 miles on it but the pulley was shot. I think that messed up my water pump. IMO, I think the belts need replace every 70,000 or seven years and the tensioner, pulley, and roller needs to be replaced every 10 years or with the belt. It's just not worth the risk of messing up something with a bad roller, pulley, etc.
Last edited by rspi; Feb 21, 2010 at 05:52 PM. Reason: addition
rspi:
Thanks for the input. I have 123,000 miles. At least I now know where the source of the problem is. I did review the instructions. (Although you had done it on one of the photos, it would be clearer if all photos would have the points of interest circled with yellow mark for clarity).
All the best and thanks again.
Thanks for the input. I have 123,000 miles. At least I now know where the source of the problem is. I did review the instructions. (Although you had done it on one of the photos, it would be clearer if all photos would have the points of interest circled with yellow mark for clarity).
All the best and thanks again.
Last edited by TheVolvoMan; Feb 22, 2010 at 11:09 AM. Reason: add a sentence
My car had about 86,000 on it and was on it's 2nd belt.
I do understand what you mean about the marks on the pictures. But it is very clear once you put your hands to it and if you have the parts you need in hand. I used simular instructions with no pictures and it fell in place pretty easy.
I do understand what you mean about the marks on the pictures. But it is very clear once you put your hands to it and if you have the parts you need in hand. I used simular instructions with no pictures and it fell in place pretty easy.
Last edited by rspi; Feb 22, 2010 at 09:04 PM. Reason: addition
rspi
After taking it to my mechanic, he pointed the same problem as you had indicted. The bearing on the tension pulley was dry (grease leak). Replaced both, the timing belt and the tensioner. All in all, it cost $460 (in Silicon valley CA) to replace the Timing Belt and bearing. I did consider Doing it myself. However, with no special tools, it could have been too complicated, with lots of room to screw thing up. My Mechanics did other thorough diagnostics for me for free, so it was worth the $220 labor.
Thanks anyway.
After taking it to my mechanic, he pointed the same problem as you had indicted. The bearing on the tension pulley was dry (grease leak). Replaced both, the timing belt and the tensioner. All in all, it cost $460 (in Silicon valley CA) to replace the Timing Belt and bearing. I did consider Doing it myself. However, with no special tools, it could have been too complicated, with lots of room to screw thing up. My Mechanics did other thorough diagnostics for me for free, so it was worth the $220 labor.
Thanks anyway.
Last edited by TheVolvoMan; Feb 23, 2010 at 02:12 PM.
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