Squealing From The Engine Compartment...
#1
Squealing From The Engine Compartment...
My '97 960 started making a squealing sound from the engine bay during warm up. I assumed it was the air pump since it only runs suring warm up and paid it no mind. I figured it would stop when it finally went out and I would deal with it then.
Then I thought about changing the timing belt in our S70 and Tech told me that the tensioners and pulleys will squeal when they are bad. So I thought, Oh Crap! My 960 is squealing. So I unhooked the air pump and started the car, and the squealing was still there. So I took the timing belt cover off and the noise was louder then ever.
So I parked the car because if they seize, they can cause the timing belt to break or timing to jump causing engine damage. The next day I noticed that my water pump was leaking as well. Maybe the bad tensioner or pulley cause the water pump to wear out.
The car only has 88k on it and the timing belt was replaced almost 2 years ago. I guess they did NOT change the tensioner and pulley. Word to the wise... If a car has more than 10 years on it, make sure they replace the tensioner and pulley whenever the timing belt is replaced.
Then I thought about changing the timing belt in our S70 and Tech told me that the tensioners and pulleys will squeal when they are bad. So I thought, Oh Crap! My 960 is squealing. So I unhooked the air pump and started the car, and the squealing was still there. So I took the timing belt cover off and the noise was louder then ever.
So I parked the car because if they seize, they can cause the timing belt to break or timing to jump causing engine damage. The next day I noticed that my water pump was leaking as well. Maybe the bad tensioner or pulley cause the water pump to wear out.
The car only has 88k on it and the timing belt was replaced almost 2 years ago. I guess they did NOT change the tensioner and pulley. Word to the wise... If a car has more than 10 years on it, make sure they replace the tensioner and pulley whenever the timing belt is replaced.
Last edited by rspi; 01-09-2010 at 09:47 AM. Reason: Addition
#3
#4
#5
Timing Belt Instructions for a '97 Volvo 960
Well I finally finished all the work involved in replacing the timing belt on my '97 Volvo 960. I replaced the timing belt, tensioner dampener, tensioner roller, idler, water pump, and remove and re-installed the radiator.
Here are the instructions I put together for the timing belt change. I added photos and edited some other instructions I found: http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technolo...iming_belt.htm
Here are the instructions I put together for the timing belt change. I added photos and edited some other instructions I found: http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technolo...iming_belt.htm
#6
I did this job a few weeks ago, but I am noticing that my timing belt is "walking" back-and-forth about 1/8" or maybe less. I am going to re-do this job and just looked up some Torque Specifications in my Volvo Data Pocket Book:
- Tensioner pulley: 22 lbs/ft (94-on), 29 for pre-1994
- Damper Unit: 18
- Idler Pulley: 18
- Water Pump: 13
- Tensioner pulley: 22 lbs/ft (94-on), 29 for pre-1994
- Damper Unit: 18
- Idler Pulley: 18
- Water Pump: 13
#13
I took another look this morning. Belt is squeaking a little, I guess for rubbing on the lip of some pulley.
I was able to test 2-3 of the 7 water pump bolts with a torque wrench, these were undertightened. This Aisin WP came with new 7 bolts already with loctite. Maybe they worked themselves loose. I will need to re-do the job later today, and make sure everything is tightened correctly.
I was able to test 2-3 of the 7 water pump bolts with a torque wrench, these were undertightened. This Aisin WP came with new 7 bolts already with loctite. Maybe they worked themselves loose. I will need to re-do the job later today, and make sure everything is tightened correctly.
#14
I used the same pump I believe. My water pump bolts were also loose a few days later. I had to tighten all but 2 of them. I also noticed that those bolts were not the same size as the ones I removed. That did NOT give me a warm feeling. Not sure why the blet is squeaking, maybe something on it. Are you sure it's not the serpentine blet or something else?
#15
I used the same pump I believe. My water pump bolts were also loose a few days later. I had to tighten all but 2 of them. I also noticed that those bolts were not the same size as the ones I removed. That did NOT give me a warm feeling. Not sure why the blet is squeaking, maybe something on it. Are you sure it's not the serpentine blet or something else?
I just re-did the job and the 'walk" is minimized, about half (1/16") or maybe even less what it was before (1/8"). No more squeaking. It does not overhang over any pulley, neither it did before. Locktite and Torque-wrenched everything. Dampener and WP is Aisin-brand, belt is Continental, Idler and Tensioner are GWB (bought from FCP).
I may also need to check motor mounts. I do know that my transm mount is kinda shot. We'll see. Thanks for your help.
#16
The old Water Pump was Volvo, it was probably the original. It was in immaculate condition, but I replaced anyways, since I had already bought the new (Aisin) pump. Rollers, Idler, Dampener, belt were all in great shape. I still replaced them all.
I called the Previous Owner and he/she had thrown all records away. The car was dealer-maintained until 2-3 years ago, when the original owner gave it to his young brother-in-law, who kinda fell behind on stuff.
I called the Previous Owner and he/she had thrown all records away. The car was dealer-maintained until 2-3 years ago, when the original owner gave it to his young brother-in-law, who kinda fell behind on stuff.
#17
#19
Update: Since the squealing from the Timing Belt Area was not getting any easier, 2 months ago I took the components out again for some bench observation:
Everything looked fine except the Tensioner:
The bolt (Torx 45) that connects the Tensioner to the Block was kinda loose around its shaft. I took a video of the Tensioner (loose bolt-shaft on the bench) and the belt walking while engine is running and went to FCP offices in Old Saybrook, CT.
Mike (one of the FCP guys) looked at the video on my Camera and went and pulled 2 Tensioners from the Warehouse: one from GMB (what I had bought) and one Genuine Volvo.
Ironically, Volvo Tensioner was loose around its bolt-shaft too, in the same way as mine in the car. The GMB unit was rock solid. I looked closer -- GMB is made in Japan, while Volvo unit is made by INA in Slovakia.
What happened next really amazed me -- Mike from FCP gave them both to me (no charge and in trust) to try BOTH, keep what I like and return the rest. How is that for Customer Service!!!!
About 3-4 weeks later I did the job, put in the new GMB unit, squeal is gone, and returned Volvo Tensioner and used GMB unit to Mike. Thanks again FCP... No more squealing and the walk is almost non-existent.
Everything looked fine except the Tensioner:
The bolt (Torx 45) that connects the Tensioner to the Block was kinda loose around its shaft. I took a video of the Tensioner (loose bolt-shaft on the bench) and the belt walking while engine is running and went to FCP offices in Old Saybrook, CT.
Mike (one of the FCP guys) looked at the video on my Camera and went and pulled 2 Tensioners from the Warehouse: one from GMB (what I had bought) and one Genuine Volvo.
Ironically, Volvo Tensioner was loose around its bolt-shaft too, in the same way as mine in the car. The GMB unit was rock solid. I looked closer -- GMB is made in Japan, while Volvo unit is made by INA in Slovakia.
What happened next really amazed me -- Mike from FCP gave them both to me (no charge and in trust) to try BOTH, keep what I like and return the rest. How is that for Customer Service!!!!
About 3-4 weeks later I did the job, put in the new GMB unit, squeal is gone, and returned Volvo Tensioner and used GMB unit to Mike. Thanks again FCP... No more squealing and the walk is almost non-existent.
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