Citric acid treatment
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Citric acid treatment
Hello all,
This may not be an issue for some, but having done a lot of work on German diesels, the use of a multi-phase cleaning process before using phosphate-free antifreeze is very common among those who have worked on Teutonic cars.
Is this also true for Swedish cars?
It's a straightforward but tedious process that cleans very thoroughly.
1.Drain all cooling system fluid
2. Mix one cup of Liquid Tide (MB recommends) with two gallons of water as first wash, to remove all oil from the walls of the engine. 20 minute run with the soapy water, mostly in place or around the block.
3. Drain and rinse at least twice with clear water until only clear water comes out after running 20 min or to temp.
4. Mix concentration of citric acid and water (can get exact formulation from MB FSM), install and drive for about 30 minutes.
5. Two rinses with clear water and drains. Some people then use litmus paper to check for acidity/basicity , not required.
6. If you still see goobers in the water, do a third rinse.
7. If that doesn't clean it all, then another citric acid treatment and rinses.
8. Follow by at least one day with just water and a 20 mile trip, locally at speeds under 55.
9. Drain again and add water, check for goobers or acidity. If none go to last step.
10 Install 50/50 mix of demineralized water and phosphate feee anti-gel, usually ZEREX G-05 or a Euro equivalent or the Volvo mix, as available.
When warmer weather comes, the entire fleet except for a truck with 6.2l HMMWV engine will be switched to Zerex with additional water pump lubricant.
I should also know by then if the dealer has replaced the timing belt and water pump and at what intervals. The pump is, I be;lieve, only 20,000 miles old, so it may not be replaced by a new one.
Do any of you use a water pump/cooling a system lube, such as weater wetter? Please advise if so.
I have seen amazing gunk removed in this fashion.
This may not be an issue for some, but having done a lot of work on German diesels, the use of a multi-phase cleaning process before using phosphate-free antifreeze is very common among those who have worked on Teutonic cars.
Is this also true for Swedish cars?
It's a straightforward but tedious process that cleans very thoroughly.
1.Drain all cooling system fluid
2. Mix one cup of Liquid Tide (MB recommends) with two gallons of water as first wash, to remove all oil from the walls of the engine. 20 minute run with the soapy water, mostly in place or around the block.
3. Drain and rinse at least twice with clear water until only clear water comes out after running 20 min or to temp.
4. Mix concentration of citric acid and water (can get exact formulation from MB FSM), install and drive for about 30 minutes.
5. Two rinses with clear water and drains. Some people then use litmus paper to check for acidity/basicity , not required.
6. If you still see goobers in the water, do a third rinse.
7. If that doesn't clean it all, then another citric acid treatment and rinses.
8. Follow by at least one day with just water and a 20 mile trip, locally at speeds under 55.
9. Drain again and add water, check for goobers or acidity. If none go to last step.
10 Install 50/50 mix of demineralized water and phosphate feee anti-gel, usually ZEREX G-05 or a Euro equivalent or the Volvo mix, as available.
When warmer weather comes, the entire fleet except for a truck with 6.2l HMMWV engine will be switched to Zerex with additional water pump lubricant.
I should also know by then if the dealer has replaced the timing belt and water pump and at what intervals. The pump is, I be;lieve, only 20,000 miles old, so it may not be replaced by a new one.
Do any of you use a water pump/cooling a system lube, such as weater wetter? Please advise if so.
I have seen amazing gunk removed in this fashion.
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