Hard to start when warm.
#1
Hard to start when warm.
I know this post is old but did you get to the bottom of your problem? I have a 1995 960 engine in my 1007 V90 and it is starting hard after warm-up. Starts excellent when cold but if you drive it any distance and let it sit about 5 minutes it starts HARD and sometimes takes several tries.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Any suggestions?
Thanks
#2
I know this post is old but did you get to the bottom of your problem? I have a 1995 960 engine in my 1007 V90 and it is starting hard after warm-up. Starts excellent when cold but if you drive it any distance and let it sit about 5 minutes it starts HARD and sometimes takes several tries.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Have you scanned for DTCs?
What is the status of Stage 0?
Here is the run-down per Volvo's manual:
NO START - WARM ENGINE
* Ensure fuel pressure is correct.
* Check for gasoline in oil.
* Ensure fuel injectors are not leaking.
* Check ignition and sensor wires for proper connection.
* Ensure spark plugs are not fouled.
* Check ignition and coil circuit.
* Check engine speed sensor or Hall Effect sensor (turbo).
* Check throttle switch and connector.
* Check idle valve. Ensure airflow arrow points in correct
direction.
#3
What is your fuel pressure? You should be more specific than "fuel pressure is good because gas shot out from the hose". Spec is 43.5 psi.
Have you scanned for DTCs?
What is the status of Stage 0?
Here is the run-down per Volvo's manual:
NO START - WARM ENGINE
* Ensure fuel pressure is correct.
* Check for gasoline in oil.
* Ensure fuel injectors are not leaking.
* Check ignition and sensor wires for proper connection.
* Ensure spark plugs are not fouled.
* Check ignition and coil circuit.
* Check engine speed sensor or Hall Effect sensor (turbo).
* Check throttle switch and connector.
* Check idle valve. Ensure airflow arrow points in correct
direction.
Have you scanned for DTCs?
What is the status of Stage 0?
Here is the run-down per Volvo's manual:
NO START - WARM ENGINE
* Ensure fuel pressure is correct.
* Check for gasoline in oil.
* Ensure fuel injectors are not leaking.
* Check ignition and sensor wires for proper connection.
* Ensure spark plugs are not fouled.
* Check ignition and coil circuit.
* Check engine speed sensor or Hall Effect sensor (turbo).
* Check throttle switch and connector.
* Check idle valve. Ensure airflow arrow points in correct
direction.
Thanks again!
#4
#5
Thanks Henry10! Great advice - I will check the coils and wiring - easy enought to access!
The engine has never been hit that I know of? I got the used engine from a guy on eBay but he showed me videos of the donor car and very detailed videos of the engine running. It has 140k on it and it all looks origional stuff. I did a timing belt/water pump during the swap.
Thanks again.
Your V90 looks AWESOME! very nice.....................
The engine has never been hit that I know of? I got the used engine from a guy on eBay but he showed me videos of the donor car and very detailed videos of the engine running. It has 140k on it and it all looks origional stuff. I did a timing belt/water pump during the swap.
Thanks again.
Your V90 looks AWESOME! very nice.....................
#6
I believe V90 is the best car Volvo has made. It is the last RWD car, and Volvo perfected the RWD after decades. It has a Porsche-engineered engine -- you feel it. It has a bulletproof Aisin-Warner transmission. Aisin-Warner combined American technology (Warner) with Japanese quality. V90 has also a very unique feature for family cars -- a transversal fiberglass leaf in the rear, in lieu of coil springs. Corvettes have it. It has a lifespan of 25-30 years. It provides greater handling and stability. Other 960s have the Nivomats which are a great feature IMO.
Computers were run by the most advanced systems at the time, Bosch Motronic. Built in the 90s, 960/V90 have one of the first side-airbags. The list goes on.
V90 was built to compete with Benz wagons. They had to compensate lack of image with quality. In the end, it became economically not feasible to produce them any more, hence the mass-market FWD.
To me V90 works well -- my biggest issue is city wear-and-tear. Cars get damaged a lot even when parked. The other day I saw a pizza delivery guy bang his bicycle on my quarter panel. I couldn't believe it. Left another scar. I use it mostly as a highway cruiser, and weekend therapy tool. I would be very happy to daily-drive it if I had too.
Although not befitting a V90, at the ridiculous cheap prices you can buy them these cars are disposable. They are a great value.
Computers were run by the most advanced systems at the time, Bosch Motronic. Built in the 90s, 960/V90 have one of the first side-airbags. The list goes on.
V90 was built to compete with Benz wagons. They had to compensate lack of image with quality. In the end, it became economically not feasible to produce them any more, hence the mass-market FWD.
To me V90 works well -- my biggest issue is city wear-and-tear. Cars get damaged a lot even when parked. The other day I saw a pizza delivery guy bang his bicycle on my quarter panel. I couldn't believe it. Left another scar. I use it mostly as a highway cruiser, and weekend therapy tool. I would be very happy to daily-drive it if I had too.
Although not befitting a V90, at the ridiculous cheap prices you can buy them these cars are disposable. They are a great value.
#7
Wow! I never knew all that about V90s? I like it - like you said the last of the RWDs. I was at the local dealer getting parts and they were reasonable on price but an older Salesman approached me and thought he recognized the car and I had the origional owners manual and sure enough he sold the car to the 1st owners. Unfortunately the 2nd owners did not take care of it. I am getting it straightened out, the spark plugs cured it! Cant believe how bad they were, had to be origional (140k) - volvo brand.
It bothers me when people neglect cars, it is not hard to take care of them, and way cheaper in the long run!
Have you ever tried to "beef up" the rear suspension? My rear shocks are origional (240k) and sagging bad. I want to get the ride height up above stock I have a huge "curb" in my dirveway that I botttom out on and it would give it a bit more of an XC look but I dont want to go overboard or obnoxious!
Well, todays plan is to repaint the fron bumper cover. The only body issues, someone had repainted it once and it is all flaking off.
Hopefully have time to buff her out and wax too....................
It bothers me when people neglect cars, it is not hard to take care of them, and way cheaper in the long run!
Have you ever tried to "beef up" the rear suspension? My rear shocks are origional (240k) and sagging bad. I want to get the ride height up above stock I have a huge "curb" in my dirveway that I botttom out on and it would give it a bit more of an XC look but I dont want to go overboard or obnoxious!
Well, todays plan is to repaint the fron bumper cover. The only body issues, someone had repainted it once and it is all flaking off.
Hopefully have time to buff her out and wax too....................
#8
Have you ever tried to "beef up" the rear suspension? My rear shocks are origional (240k) and sagging bad. I want to get the ride height up above stock I have a huge "curb" in my dirveway that I botttom out on and it would give it a bit more of an XC look but I dont want to go overboard or obnoxious!
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