Help please 760 turbo,electronics not working
#1
Help please 760 turbo,electronics not working
Hey i have a 84 volvo 760 turbo with 260,000 kilometers I figure it has lots of life left and want to fix all the problems but i just dont know where to start.
-The dash lights have stopped working along with the fuel gauge. but the spedometer, boost gauge and everything else works. ( I checked fuses, replaced bulbs and checked connections but still nothing)
-Centeral locks only work sometimes.
-The washer fluid pump has stopped working ( the connection has 12 volts to it when tested with multimeter and the pump itself works when 12 volts are applied but when put togther they dont work)
Everything else seems to work fine if anybody has any ideas or knows where i could start, please respond to my post. I enjoy working on vehicles and can fix anything when i know what the problem is.
-The dash lights have stopped working along with the fuel gauge. but the spedometer, boost gauge and everything else works. ( I checked fuses, replaced bulbs and checked connections but still nothing)
-Centeral locks only work sometimes.
-The washer fluid pump has stopped working ( the connection has 12 volts to it when tested with multimeter and the pump itself works when 12 volts are applied but when put togther they dont work)
Everything else seems to work fine if anybody has any ideas or knows where i could start, please respond to my post. I enjoy working on vehicles and can fix anything when i know what the problem is.
#2
First, the good news. You are in possession of a turbo Volvo with the stoutest engine Volvo ever built. The B23FT has forged pistons, forged 13mm rods and a forged crankshaft. The combination is the foundation for an awesome, tire smoking machine. The non-turbo B23F has only the forged crank. Beginning in 85, Volvo went to the low-friction motor w/ measly 9mm cast rods.
The bad news. The 84 uses a bastardized fuel injection system, LH2.1. It has an ecu similar to the LH2.2 ecu used in the turbos from 85-89. But...it has the icu of the older LH2.0. Additionally, you will find that the strut mounts of the 84 are different than the 85+, indeed the strut towers are different heights within the engine bay. And finally, and what you are running into, is the biodegradable wire insulation found in Volvos from ~82-87. Because turbos generate more heat, the insulation degradation is even worse. The wiring is hidden in bundles beneathe the black sheathing of Volvo's harness wrap. davebarton.com has a replacement engine harness for your car but the harnesses on either strut tower going to the lighting are no longer available; these will have to be re-wired yourself. If you keep the car long you will become an expert solderer. My best advice is to get a Haynes manual and also the Volvo greenbook for the 84 760. With some patience and the proper schematics, you can have a wonderful and wickedly fast car. I recently sold my 84...too many Volvos. I had IPD 25/25 sways, Bilsteins, e-code headlamps, boost set at 14-16 p.s.i. and water/methanol injection set to kick in at 12 p.s.i.Here's a couple pics to give you the idea...
Oh...another trouble spot is near the a/c accumulator on firewall. This is where the gray connector comes out from the ecu and plugs into the engine harness; as I said, there are engine harnesses available but on the firewall side of the plug the wiring must be painstakingly rewired. Yor issues may for now be as simple as pulling the two trim pieces (one has the clock sett **** in it) to expose the 2 solitary screws tha hold the instrument cluster in. It's quite possible some connectors simply came loose from the back of the cluster. Here's pics of me mending the fire wall connector...
scary wiring
If you save these to your computer and enlarge them, you'll see the insulation was totally missing in places...amazing it ran at all.
mended
The bad news. The 84 uses a bastardized fuel injection system, LH2.1. It has an ecu similar to the LH2.2 ecu used in the turbos from 85-89. But...it has the icu of the older LH2.0. Additionally, you will find that the strut mounts of the 84 are different than the 85+, indeed the strut towers are different heights within the engine bay. And finally, and what you are running into, is the biodegradable wire insulation found in Volvos from ~82-87. Because turbos generate more heat, the insulation degradation is even worse. The wiring is hidden in bundles beneathe the black sheathing of Volvo's harness wrap. davebarton.com has a replacement engine harness for your car but the harnesses on either strut tower going to the lighting are no longer available; these will have to be re-wired yourself. If you keep the car long you will become an expert solderer. My best advice is to get a Haynes manual and also the Volvo greenbook for the 84 760. With some patience and the proper schematics, you can have a wonderful and wickedly fast car. I recently sold my 84...too many Volvos. I had IPD 25/25 sways, Bilsteins, e-code headlamps, boost set at 14-16 p.s.i. and water/methanol injection set to kick in at 12 p.s.i.Here's a couple pics to give you the idea...
Oh...another trouble spot is near the a/c accumulator on firewall. This is where the gray connector comes out from the ecu and plugs into the engine harness; as I said, there are engine harnesses available but on the firewall side of the plug the wiring must be painstakingly rewired. Yor issues may for now be as simple as pulling the two trim pieces (one has the clock sett **** in it) to expose the 2 solitary screws tha hold the instrument cluster in. It's quite possible some connectors simply came loose from the back of the cluster. Here's pics of me mending the fire wall connector...
scary wiring
If you save these to your computer and enlarge them, you'll see the insulation was totally missing in places...amazing it ran at all.
mended
#3
#4
No problemo. You need to know you have a VERY special car. Whatever you do, do it right. As for wiring, I used a harness pulled from a newer wrecked Volvo. I did that so I could use the same colored wire. I've had to go behind other folks wiring where they used black wire for everything. Makes it rather difficult as the schematic is useless. When re-wiring, don't tear it all down...just do it one section at a time. It's well worth it.
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