How to reset Airbag light
#1
#2
Yes - use the self diagnostic box under the hood to read, and erase the codes. Or if an earlier car, use these instructions found in the link below. If there is really a problem - the codes won't erase. Below text from that link for earlier cars.
"In earlier cars, the test location is the fusebox behind ash tray. There are 4 fuse holders across the front of the fuse box, some of these do not have fuses. The second from left would be SRS test point. It has a terminal on one side only. You plug in to this socket and ground it to read/ reset code. [Jeffrey Davis] Use an 18 - 22 gauge solid wire with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of insulation stripped from the ends. Insert the end of the jumper you made into the test point opening so it is gripped by the clip inside. Arrange the wire so you can touch the other end of it to the grounded metal ring of the cigarette lighter. Turn the ignition on so the dash warning lights are on and wait 15 seconds. Ground the test terminal for 2 full seconds. The SRS light will flash immediately when the connection is first broken. This is not a fault code. The light will then flash one to ten times for the code (see table below). The light will then come back on. Without turning the key off, clear the fault codes. Ground the test terminal three times for at least 0.25 seconds each time all within a period of 1.5 to 5 seconds. It will probably take several tries to get the rhythm. The lamp will go out for 4 seconds, re-light for 3 seconds, and then go out. If the light does not stay out, then there is still a fault present and you will need to go further in to it. [Jay Simkin] Always read the codes three times before resetting them. Often they will not reset after just one, or even two readings. If you still have SRS trouble codes, try this as a last resort. Disconnect the negative battery terminal clamp. Let the car sit for 1/2 hour. Reconnect the negative terminal clamp and drive the car. Do this three times. If the SRS light re-sets, fine. If not, it is time to replace the SRS sensor."
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Ele...icCodesPre1992
"In earlier cars, the test location is the fusebox behind ash tray. There are 4 fuse holders across the front of the fuse box, some of these do not have fuses. The second from left would be SRS test point. It has a terminal on one side only. You plug in to this socket and ground it to read/ reset code. [Jeffrey Davis] Use an 18 - 22 gauge solid wire with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of insulation stripped from the ends. Insert the end of the jumper you made into the test point opening so it is gripped by the clip inside. Arrange the wire so you can touch the other end of it to the grounded metal ring of the cigarette lighter. Turn the ignition on so the dash warning lights are on and wait 15 seconds. Ground the test terminal for 2 full seconds. The SRS light will flash immediately when the connection is first broken. This is not a fault code. The light will then flash one to ten times for the code (see table below). The light will then come back on. Without turning the key off, clear the fault codes. Ground the test terminal three times for at least 0.25 seconds each time all within a period of 1.5 to 5 seconds. It will probably take several tries to get the rhythm. The lamp will go out for 4 seconds, re-light for 3 seconds, and then go out. If the light does not stay out, then there is still a fault present and you will need to go further in to it. [Jay Simkin] Always read the codes three times before resetting them. Often they will not reset after just one, or even two readings. If you still have SRS trouble codes, try this as a last resort. Disconnect the negative battery terminal clamp. Let the car sit for 1/2 hour. Reconnect the negative terminal clamp and drive the car. Do this three times. If the SRS light re-sets, fine. If not, it is time to replace the SRS sensor."
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Ele...icCodesPre1992
#3
Thank you Hoonk - most appreciated
Yes - use the self diagnostic box under the hood to read, and erase the codes. Or if an earlier car, use these instructions found in the link below. If there is really a problem - the codes won't erase. Below text from that link for earlier cars.
"In earlier cars, the test location is the fusebox behind ash tray. There are 4 fuse holders across the front of the fuse box, some of these do not have fuses. The second from left would be SRS test point. It has a terminal on one side only. You plug in to this socket and ground it to read/ reset code. [Jeffrey Davis] Use an 18 - 22 gauge solid wire with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of insulation stripped from the ends. Insert the end of the jumper you made into the test point opening so it is gripped by the clip inside. Arrange the wire so you can touch the other end of it to the grounded metal ring of the cigarette lighter. Turn the ignition on so the dash warning lights are on and wait 15 seconds. Ground the test terminal for 2 full seconds. The SRS light will flash immediately when the connection is first broken. This is not a fault code. The light will then flash one to ten times for the code (see table below). The light will then come back on. Without turning the key off, clear the fault codes. Ground the test terminal three times for at least 0.25 seconds each time all within a period of 1.5 to 5 seconds. It will probably take several tries to get the rhythm. The lamp will go out for 4 seconds, re-light for 3 seconds, and then go out. If the light does not stay out, then there is still a fault present and you will need to go further in to it. [Jay Simkin] Always read the codes three times before resetting them. Often they will not reset after just one, or even two readings. If you still have SRS trouble codes, try this as a last resort. Disconnect the negative battery terminal clamp. Let the car sit for 1/2 hour. Reconnect the negative terminal clamp and drive the car. Do this three times. If the SRS light re-sets, fine. If not, it is time to replace the SRS sensor."
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Ele...icCodesPre1992
"In earlier cars, the test location is the fusebox behind ash tray. There are 4 fuse holders across the front of the fuse box, some of these do not have fuses. The second from left would be SRS test point. It has a terminal on one side only. You plug in to this socket and ground it to read/ reset code. [Jeffrey Davis] Use an 18 - 22 gauge solid wire with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of insulation stripped from the ends. Insert the end of the jumper you made into the test point opening so it is gripped by the clip inside. Arrange the wire so you can touch the other end of it to the grounded metal ring of the cigarette lighter. Turn the ignition on so the dash warning lights are on and wait 15 seconds. Ground the test terminal for 2 full seconds. The SRS light will flash immediately when the connection is first broken. This is not a fault code. The light will then flash one to ten times for the code (see table below). The light will then come back on. Without turning the key off, clear the fault codes. Ground the test terminal three times for at least 0.25 seconds each time all within a period of 1.5 to 5 seconds. It will probably take several tries to get the rhythm. The lamp will go out for 4 seconds, re-light for 3 seconds, and then go out. If the light does not stay out, then there is still a fault present and you will need to go further in to it. [Jay Simkin] Always read the codes three times before resetting them. Often they will not reset after just one, or even two readings. If you still have SRS trouble codes, try this as a last resort. Disconnect the negative battery terminal clamp. Let the car sit for 1/2 hour. Reconnect the negative terminal clamp and drive the car. Do this three times. If the SRS light re-sets, fine. If not, it is time to replace the SRS sensor."
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Ele...icCodesPre1992
Thank you Hoonk - most appreciated
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