Don't waste your time and do the job twice. Once the bolts are off, the seal has been broken.

Tap with a mallet. It should come off -- its just baked-on old glue that's keeping it together.

 

i planned on gas soaking the bolts...cleaning them, oiling the threads....re-installing...and boom..done...

new plugs, oil, ect.....

then get it compression tested, and leak-down tested...check injectors...blah blah.....

 

I thought I saw something, but I ain't there -- you are.

 

and if i do this, i need to remove the cams?, seals?...timing belt...ect...

id rather do all that if needed, after the tests are done...looking at time and money as well.....hmmmm....

 

yeah its a dirt line....they are in really good shape....it was driven like a granny car...

 

You seem to be in a rush. I would slow down.

Now that you have it open -- I would also do cam seals (front and rear). I would also do the belts, check tensioners, pulleys, send injectors out for cleaning. Do the PCV too.

These are cheap parts.

Do it right, do it once.

 

i do get that....im just afraid if i get it tested, ill need to get back into the motor anyway.....not that im in a hurry.....just dont want to do it twice because of that....

 

the other symptoms are still present.....coolant system pressure, rough idle/misfire in cylinder 3...

you know?

 

also remember, the motor is in...rear cam seals will be almost impossible....there is no room to tap them in.....

 

There is nothing wrong with the motor. You got a misfire problem. It's either electrical or fuel. The motor should have not been opened.

Rspi and I were telling you to test (leak-down and compression test) based on your suspicion of Head Gasket, although we told you it is very unlikely.

So now that the milkshake proved to be an illusion, there is no reason to suspect anything. So are you going to test for?

Close it back up properly. Liquid seal tube cost about $ 10. Bolts maybe another $ 30-$40.

Again, slow down and be methodical. You can't rush these things. The bolts you took out have been stretched. If you don't re-seal and new bolts used, you will have leaks. The motor may or may not start. If it does, it will be bust out shortly. These are very high-compression, tight-tolerances motors.

 

Again: what's wrong with the cooling system pressure?

 

Tap out the upper part, which you took the bolts out. Cams are under it. Perfect time to do the Cam seals.

Sit-down and devise a work plan. You will need some tools now.

 

Unfortionately I'm with Henry on the new bolts and reseal. I have heard that those bolts are one time use.

I was recommending a compression test to track down the missing. I have heard a mechanic and another person having a burt valve or piston or something causing a misfire. Also, a compression test is so easy to do it's a shame not to rule that out.

As for the rusty bolt, you could have a small head gasket seepage to that bolt which would NOT be a problem. The problem would come into play if the leak goes outside of the head or into the oil. A hairline leak that stopped at a bolt is no big deal.

Also, I think I remember you trying to pull the top of the head off. You did ask was there something else holding that on. Once you releave pressure by pulling those bolts you likely allowed at least 40% of it loose.

For some reason I though you had already replaced plugs, at least swapped the plug and coil together with another cylinder.

It really looks and sounds like you got your hands on a car that was well taken care of. The toughest things about these cars is that the original owners don't drive that much and having them sit around is worse than driving them 30,000 per year. When I got my last 960, it was 11 years old and only had 53,000 miles on it. In 2-1/2 years I put 58,000 miles on it. It never missed a beat. I ran 10w-30 synthetic in it. As long as compression is good and seals are not leaking you should be ok switching. I didn't change oil that often, between 5 to 7 k. I also set a few travel records in it.

 

Miley, read the owners manual. A few things that you suspect as defects are NORMAL according to the engineers. Volvo's operate a little different than other cars. A good example of this is that it is normal for the valves to tick at start up. The average person things that something serious is wrong with the motor, turn the thing off, and don't give it a chance to smooth out. I left one of my 850's part a few weeks and when I started it up one of the valves was ticking pretty hard. About three minutes into the drive it smoothed out and I never heard the ticking again.

I understand getting thing fixed, especially the missing. Keep at it and learn the quarks of the Volvo and you'll be fine. They are very good cars.

 

I'm not sure why that happens. Volvo's use to have a hot side and a cold side of the motors in their B230f motors. It helped them stay warm longer between drives and saved on wear and cut down on warm up. Also helped with fuel effeciency. That or the fact that they have alluminium blocks may cause that.

Seeing that wheel reflection in the oil make me miss my 960 again.

 

gotcha, ill look into the parts.....

as for cams, and such.....can i leave all that in place>?

 

its being pressurized, and has a fuel/motor fume smell, as well as residue in the reservoir....not much but its there, and it pisses out coolant n a regular.

plus it idles rough after it warms up...20-30 mn....codes show a cylinder 3 misfire....

 

i did do plugs....but they were cheap ones just to get me by....so im gonna get good ones now...

 

Post this problem and question in turbobricks. Include the photos.

 

Do you have the green cap on the reservoir? Have you done a flush yet? Are you losing any coolant or oil?