Hi Everyone, I tried searching but found nothing on my current issue.

I have a 1996 Volvo 960 wagon, and the latest issue is my low fuel light doesn't come on at all, not at start not when i drive the car to about 1 gallon left. the fuel gauge is operating perfectly so i wonder if the LED just died? or would it be with the sending unit? I would just think if the sending unit was bad the gauge wouldn't work at all or be all over the place.... If it is the LED can i solder in a new one?


Thanks for any help

Steve

 

Some cars (other makes) have a separate sensor for the low fuel alarm, but not this one. There are only two wires for the fuel gauge (the other two wires in this module are for the fuel pump.) So this is all in the gauge.

When my light comes on I can put 19 gallons or more in the tank before the fuel dispenser shuts off.




Earlier this year my battery went bad, bringing charging voltage down to 13 v. Until I replaced the battery (and charging voltage went back up to normal) the fuel gauge was very screwy.

 

[QUOTE=VDonkey;411073]Some cars (other makes) have a separate sensor for the low fuel alarm, but not this one. There are only two wires for the fuel gauge (the other two wires in this module are for the fuel pump.) So this is all in the gauge.

When my light comes on I can put 19 gallons or more in the tank before the fuel dispenser shuts off].


so i should try replacing the actual gauge light? due to the fact that the gauge besides the light not working operates fine ( i get about 400 miles till the nettle hits the red line and i do 70% city 30% highway) oh and i have a brand new battery

 

I am pretty sure this lamp is not accessible by simply gaining access to the back of the cluster, in the way that most of the other lamps in it are replaceable.

The instrument cluster is pretty fragile and I personally would do whatever I could to avoid taking it apart. I have no idea how the low fuel alarm is driven, it could be a mechanical switch on the needle, or it could be electronics (like maybe an analog comparator.)

Before proceeding with this I would try to test it by removing the fuel pump connector, and using a potentiometer (variable resistor) to manipulate the fuel gauge.

I haven't found a spec for the fuel level sensor, but from my experience on other cars, a 1K-ohm pot is likely to drive the gauge through its full range.

I have had to remove my cluster to restore the illumination by resoldering some of the joints. I've had the front lens off of it to polish it, but don't remember removing the gauge bezel. Once the bezel is off, there are screws for electrical connections for each gauge on the back of the cluster, and some small screws on the face side that hold each gauge in.

 

so i ended up just replacing the gauge with a spare i had in my garage ad it is all set, didnt even bother trying to re solder the led looked like it had enough after 200k lol.

 

So, you took the gauge apart to investigate replacement of it? Was it easy? Did you gain any insight into how the alarm works (is it electronics?)

 

i ended up taking the whole fuel gauge out and replacing it. the extra one is sitting on my work bench right now. the little LED has some bad soldering to it so i would guess it is all electric since you are correct with there is only one sending unit for both the gauge and the alarm.