Time for a Fuel Pump for my V90 -- which way to go?

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Old 09-20-2016, 02:04 AM
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Default Time for a Fuel Pump for my V90 -- which way to go?

Well, it's not a 960 in name, but there ain't much difference between a '97 960 wagon and a '98 V90. And since I couldn't find an area for the S90/V90, I figured this is close enough.

My '98 V90 just stopped cold the other day. As I was working through the possibilities as to what it could be, I removed the gas cap and listened for the pump when my wife turned the key on. Nothing. I then disconnected the fuel rail from the fuel line and turned on the ignition. Nada. Then I checked the relays. They're good. So, unless something happened with one of the wires that leads to the fuel pump, I suspect the pump is the culprit. This car has an in-tank pump.

But this is where it gets interesting. I took a look on the 'net for replacements. Found a bunch on eBay and Amazon. Prices are all over the place, from as cheap as $28 to over $200. Well, I've pretty much decided not to buy a pump at either end of the range, and I'm thinking that perhaps a pump that sells for, say $50-60 might be a safe bet.

Basically, I'm posting this because I'm after information -- and/or experiences. Any specific recommendations that might fall within -- or close to -- my price range?

Thanks loads for any info you'd care to share.
 

Last edited by cooltouch; 09-20-2016 at 02:08 AM.
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:56 AM
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Well, yeah, valid considerations... Buy a reputable brand, stay away from the cheapest. Better get it from a good seller like FCP or IPD that will warranty the pump. FCP is for the life of the car, not bad... Also, depends on how long you are likely to keep the car.
 
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Old 09-20-2016, 11:09 AM
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I went with a rebuild kit for my 96 960 wagon with the in tank only pump. It's thru fcp euro was a good price and very easy install. Was in and running in 40 mins. Just make sure u get a new seal for the tank .
 
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Old 09-23-2016, 10:35 PM
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I'm not familiar with FCP. Can you unabbreviate it, please?

What about Amazon? They sell everything these days. I was thinking about them because of their excellent return policy.
 
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Old 09-25-2016, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by cooltouch
I'm not familiar with FCP. Can you unabbreviate it, please?

What about Amazon? They sell everything these days. I was thinking about them because of their excellent return policy.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/

Buy wherever you feel comfortable.
 
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Old 09-26-2016, 05:08 PM
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Thanks for the FCP link. The price for their pump is at the max of the range of prices I found. I bought an Airtex pump for about $60. Hopefully, it won't be too hard getting the old one out and the new one in. For a savings of over $500, though, I'll figure something out.
 

Last edited by cooltouch; 09-26-2016 at 05:13 PM.
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Old 10-25-2016, 11:37 AM
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Default Fuel Pump Replacement - 960/V90/S90

Having literally just completed this very job....here are my observations: I picked up the Bosch (original equipment pump) on closeout from Rock Auto for $50.00 and a fuel filter for $3.00. The Bosch pump is made in Germany and identical to the OEM one that was dead in the tank with 201,000 miles on it. There are a couple of YouTube videos out there for swapping on the pump on the 960/940/740 series cars. In general the job on each of these cars is all pretty much the same. The job is pretty straight forward. My car is a 1997 960 wagon....so essentially the same as your V90. The access panel to the filler neck/sending unit is easy to get to after you remove that carpeted panel. I bought the cheap set of fuel/ac line removal tools from Harbor Freight, which made removing the pressurized supply line a breeze.

The one thing I learned that is critical is unplugging the fuel sending unit/fuel pump power connection back in the storage well in the left rear of the cargo area. You need to be able to easily maneuver the sending unit/pump assembly when you go to re-install it. It was very difficult for me to visualize how the assembly needed to be positioned to get it to drop back into place.

There are one or two write ups on the web. I would read through those as well. It really is a pretty straight forward job with that little added bonus of trying to get the unit back in the tank.

Feel free to ask if you have more questions.

Good luck!

Ted H.
1997 965 Wagon - 202,000 miles and counting

Previous:
1998 C70 Coupe HPT Manual Transmission - Saffron Pearl Metallic (don't ask why I sold it....I have no good answer)



Originally Posted by cooltouch
Well, it's not a 960 in name, but there ain't much difference between a '97 960 wagon and a '98 V90. And since I couldn't find an area for the S90/V90, I figured this is close enough.

My '98 V90 just stopped cold the other day. As I was working through the possibilities as to what it could be, I removed the gas cap and listened for the pump when my wife turned the key on. Nothing. I then disconnected the fuel rail from the fuel line and turned on the ignition. Nada. Then I checked the relays. They're good. So, unless something happened with one of the wires that leads to the fuel pump, I suspect the pump is the culprit. This car has an in-tank pump.

But this is where it gets interesting. I took a look on the 'net for replacements. Found a bunch on eBay and Amazon. Prices are all over the place, from as cheap as $28 to over $200. Well, I've pretty much decided not to buy a pump at either end of the range, and I'm thinking that perhaps a pump that sells for, say $50-60 might be a safe bet.

Basically, I'm posting this because I'm after information -- and/or experiences. Any specific recommendations that might fall within -- or close to -- my price range?

Thanks loads for any info you'd care to share.
 
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:31 PM
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Sorry I'm just getting back to you, and thanks very much for your description, Ted. Oh and thanks for the tip on the HF tools. I didn't even know I'd need some special tools to remove some of the lines in there. One, the fuel supply line, I'm thinking, looks like it would be easy to break if man-handled.

I have one obvious question, though: what did you do or use to get that big ring loose from the tank? I tried using a screwdriver and a hammer, and all I did was dig the screwdriver into the ring, without budging it.
 
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:55 AM
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Default Fuel Pump Replacement - 960/V90/S90

Michael,

Here's the link to the Harbor Freight AC/Fuel Line Removal tool:

6 Piece Fuel Line and A/C Quick Disconnect Tool

As far as getting the fuel pump sending unit retaining ring off...I sprayed that whole assembly area with a good penetrating lubricant (PB Blaster or Deep Creep are my usual go to's). Then I let that soak in over night. Went back the next day with a long hardened chisel and a brass hammer and tapped it loose. Once loose, I used a long Craftsman pry bar and used a small block of wood to pry back against (so as not to damage the that access opening sheet metal) to continue the process of unthreading the ring.

My plastic retaining ring also had a very large hose clamp securing it, which was very rusty...so the penetrating lubricant helped with that as well.

Let me know if you have more questions.

Here are a couple of links that helped:

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Fue...eplacement.htm

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Fue...derReplacement

Best of luck!

Ted H.
1997 960 Wagon

Originally Posted by cooltouch
Sorry I'm just getting back to you, and thanks very much for your description, Ted. Oh and thanks for the tip on the HF tools. I didn't even know I'd need some special tools to remove some of the lines in there. One, the fuel supply line, I'm thinking, looks like it would be easy to break if man-handled.


I have one obvious question, though: what did you do or use to get that big ring loose from the tank? I tried using a screwdriver and a hammer, and all I did was dig the screwdriver into the ring, without budging it.
 
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Old 11-02-2016, 04:02 AM
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Thanks again, Ted. I'll be sure to ask if I have more questions or if I get stuck.
 
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Old 11-03-2016, 04:52 PM
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I replaced my pump on the 95 960 about a year ago. I bought a Rock Auto supplied unit. The large ring was a miserable experience to get off. So I bought a replacement ring (EBay sourced) just in case I trashed the original ring. Things that were installed 20 years and 200,000 miles ago tend to fuse. I did not bust the original ring but installed the new and kept the original for future. IIRC I used a strap wrench and manpower to get that thing to budge. Didn't have to use a special tool to remove fuel and return lines. So far so good.
 
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Old 11-03-2016, 10:57 PM
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Thanks for the feedback, Southpaw. I expect my experience with the big ring to be similar to yours based on the damage I've done to it so far. I have a set of strap wrenches, I just don't know where they are (we moved recently and I don't know where most of my stuff is). But while I was looking at clearances, I was wondering if I could even get a strap wrench in there and maneuver with it at all.

I'll probably be buying another ring too, and I'm gonna go ahead and get that Harbor Freight set, just to be on the safe side.
 
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Old 11-04-2016, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by cooltouch
Thanks for the feedback, Southpaw. I expect my experience with the big ring to be similar to yours based on the damage I've done to it so far. I have a set of strap wrenches, I just don't know where they are (we moved recently and I don't know where most of my stuff is). But while I was looking at clearances, I was wondering if I could even get a strap wrench in there and maneuver with it at all.

I'll probably be buying another ring too, and I'm gonna go ahead and get that Harbor Freight set, just to be on the safe side.
After the fact I wondered if it would have been easier to drop the tank.
 
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Old 11-06-2016, 10:06 AM
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Yeah, I've thought of that already. Problem with me is, because of the jacks I have available, it will be very difficult to jack the car up high enough to drop the tank. So, I'm just gonna try and get it done through the access hole.

Anyway, at this point I'm wondering how many lines I can leave attached when I remove the whole sensor/pump assembly.
 
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Old 11-07-2016, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by cooltouch
Yeah, I've thought of that already. Problem with me is, because of the jacks I have available, it will be very difficult to jack the car up high enough to drop the tank. So, I'm just gonna try and get it done through the access hole.

Anyway, at this point I'm wondering how many lines I can leave attached when I remove the whole sensor/pump assembly.
I don't believe, IIRC, that the unit will come out without removing all of the lines. It is a large assembly. Just take a dig pic. I did.
 
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Old 03-07-2018, 10:00 PM
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just did this with my 96 960 , and at the same4 time as the furl filter took a $h!t my right neye did too. so trying to work in that little hole in the trunk of the car {wtf come one your sweds habve big hands can we get a little more room } with gawd alwful dep perseption . next time im dropping the tank . now i am dealiong with knocking and a p0120 code , at least i was able to stager vehicals so if push come to shove i can get the hearse out shes a runner and 35 years old
 
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