Guys,
Need a little help please.
Yesterday I drove my 1994 850 non-turbo on the interstate for like 15 minutes then I drove through town. All of a sudden the RPMs at idle would be rough it was going up and down by a difference of 100-300 rpms. When I turned the A/C on, it would idle rougher...However, it never stalled...
I then gave it gas at a light and nothing would happen until like 2 seconds later...it was as if it was misfiring or something...It seemed as if the RPMs were delayed when I would give it gas...
Sometimes I would floor it to pull out in front of somebody and it wouldn't go until 2 seconds later(very scary)...
Also It idled fine in Neutral, but in Park/drive/reverse the rpms would bounch a little...

Please give me some input if you can...
This car has been well maintained...

This morning it ran fine...very weird?

 

Pull the codes from socket A-2 and post them back.

...Lee

 

I did pull them, NONE (1-1-1), I even cleared the codes and the check engine light is still on....hmm

 

If you didn't get anything from A-2 try pulling them from A-6. Most of our cars had Motronic systems but some had the LH 3.2 jetronic system and they spit out codeson portA-6.

...Lee

 

Out of A-6, that is A-6, I got the code 2-4-1 that's it. EGR flow to low it says however they say that is for A-2. Does that seem right?

 

The EGR valve mounts on your throttle body, directly below it, and the hole between the valve and the throttle body will often get plugged up.

Start with the easy stuff. Check the vacuum lines from the EGR controller which is mounted on the fan shroud. It has a hard plastic line that goes between the controller and the valve, I think it is usually yellow in color. That line can get pulled loose from the controller or the valve, particularly if your upper torque arm bushing is shot. Check the vacuum lines in and out of the controller.

For the next step you will need a new EGR gasket and a new throttle body gasket. Remove the EGR valve and the throttle body and clean them both. Throttle body cleaner is available but I always just use carb cleaner on both of them.

...Lee

 

However, is the code correct since it is out of A-6? Thanks for the info

 

It is the same. Here is a link to all A-6 codes:

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/IgnitionSystemSocketA6.php

...Lee

 

Will check the lines in the morning...will keep you posted...thanks for yalls time...

 

This sounds a lot like what happened to me one day on my way to school. I was stopped at a light and my 96 850 GLT backfired, the brake pedal started kicking up, and the RPMs were fluctuating rapidly. The engine was shaking the car violently. This was the first thing that had gone awry since I started driving so needless to say I was freaking out. When I accelerated the car would shake, hesitate, and then finally go.

It turned out that one of the genius former owners had power washed everything in the engine bay, water got into the spark plug caps, and rusted them.

The mechanic replaced the spark plugs and caps and that fixed the problem. I think it cost a couple of hundred to fix. Hope this helps.

 

See if anything has been omitted from my tune-up list. See 2nd reply in the following:

https://volvoforums.com/m_48928/mpag..._/tm.htm#48978

See attachment FYR.

On rare occasions, faulty sensors seem to fail without reporting to the ECU[8D]. MAF sensor, I believe is noted for this. With the ignition OFF, try disconnecting sensor couplers/connectors and spray clean the inside pins with electrical contact cleaner. As for ECU, you need to disconnectnegative battery cable (need to have the radio code & make the engine re-learn idle)and wait 15 minutes before you can remove the ECU.

I hope you can find the culprit soon.


JPN

[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/069913595DE34BD5AF3671041EFB7719.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/7AC34AD1B9874A36AC2BD438D713A31C.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/826A2809EE72409F813E80827680A76A.jpg[/IMG]