The vehicle: 1995 Volvo 850 wagon (non turbo) 5 cly.

The problems(s): The wife's car won't start. In the past year it would stall once in a while and then start again after waiting 5-10 mins. Now it just doesn't start (after it sat for 2 weeks). It appears that it is not getting fuel. A secondary issue that may or may not be related is that NONE of the dash lights/gauges come on while attempting to start (Although turn signal lights work fine). I pretty sure that at least the CEL is suppose to illuminate, yeah?

What I've done: Checked codes: The only one is A3 4-4-4 (ABS issue?) Checked all fuses and they are good. Replaced the Fuel Pump Relay, Replaced the Fuel Pump, Replaced the Ignition Switch.

No fuel comes out when the Schrader valve is depressed. I do not hear the fuel pump turning on while turning the ignition but can hear the relay click. Is there any other sensor/electronic that would be preventing the fuel to flow. The fuel pump replacement was just the pump itself. Maybe the check valve is bad or another component? How can I tell w/o just replacing it?

Scanning other posts It says to check fuel pressure regulator, Idle control valve, vacuum hoses, fuel filter, and MAF. I intend to do so, but do any of those prevent the fuel pump from turning on?

My system of randomly replacing parts is getting expensive. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Edit update: Something I forgot the mention which maybe is a big deal. The car sat for 2 weeks, battery was dead, upon jumping the neg/pos were inverted on the car briefly. It didn't effect my truck (the jumper) but could this have fried the Volvo cpu or a "fusible link" (explaining the lights that no longer illuminate on the dash)? All fuses were/are fine and Relays. Could that prevent the fuel pump from working? Could I have fried the ECU? How do I check?

 

a few thoughts - can you pull codes? ie does it behave normally and give you the LED blinks etc? If there are no codes set it will still blink 1-1-1, so I'd use that as a gauge for the CPU working. Also, not sure if the 95 has a "limp" mode but some ECUs go into limp mode when there are electrical issues. You may want to try disconnecting the battery for say 30 minutes or more then reconnect to see if that clears it (you may need to research on limp mode for the 95s). Finally its possible you could have fried a relay - try pulling the fuel pump relay and then testing for voltage on the large spades to see if it toggles with the key. As to dash lights - quite possible you fried them - I just had my "digi dash" go (the LED display part only) - replacing the whole dash is pretty fast - I can do a write up for you if it comes to that as I've done a couple of odometer gear fixes that require removal of the dash unit.

Also, here's a really good link for how to do ECU and fuel system diagnostics on an 850

http: //www.volvotips.com/index.php/850-2/volvo-850-s70-v70-c70-service-repair-manual/volvo-850-diagnostics-with-codes-obd/

 

Might have a bad ECU due to the reversed battery leads when jumping. What I would do is remove the battery from the car and charge it overnight if possible. While it is charging I would check ALL of the fuses. Start from there and see how it goes. As for the fuel pressure, one way to confirm it is a fuel issue is to spray a little (note little) bit of starting fluid into the air intake. If the car runs briefly, you have a fuel delivery issue.

Glenn

 

Have you tried pulling the fuel pump relay out and jumping the pump with a wire to see if it runs with the jumper ??

Are you using new or used parts for replacements ??

 

Thanks for the replies.

I can pull codes. I have disconnected the battery overnight (while charging the battery properly this time). I have checked all the fuses and all were good. I have checked and replaced the Fuel Pump Relay with a new one.

I will check more into that site (I have gleaned a bit from it already). I will look into the "limp" mode. I will try to spray a little bit of starting fluid into the air take. I will try the jumper on the Fuel Pump Relay just in case.

What about the Overload Relay +15? If I fried that could that be preventing juice from getting the fuses? Not a lot of info online about what the heck those things do. Can I jump that relay with a wire to see if that works? Or is that a no-no?

Thanks so much ya'll.

 

check the relay on top of the radiator fan(not the 2 stage relay for the fan), that relay supplies power to the ignition and fuel system.

 

Turns out that the Overload Relay (15) was fried. Replaced and she fired right up. Thanks for all your suggestions and help everyone.