Hello everyone and thanks for taking your time to read this. I have recently bought a 1995 volvo 850 GLT non turbo and We have had nothing but problems out of it well the same problem. The car ran amazing for two weeks and suddenly started to sound like it was missing a little bit then about two days later it got worse and was missing pretty bad to where you give it gas it would studder and stall out . We took it to a shop and spent 800$ on repairs that didn't fix anything ha. New MAF,Oxygen sensor,fuel filter,spark plugs wires, coolant sensor, I myself put a new fuel pump relay in it I think 103 is what they call it? It still has this problem to this day and no shops can figure it out ??? This is my first Volvo and I loved it at first but now I really dislike it lol, So I was wondering if anyone else ran into a problem similar with this Volvo. Thanks.

 

Heres a video of it, eventually it will stall out and not want to run anymore, but when it starts to get worse if you give it gas it feels like its starving itself. Thanks

 

When I click on the video all I get is "This video is private."

When you/they did the plugs and wires did they also do the cap and rotor ??

Is the check engine light working, is it on ??

If you can get a hold of a fuel pressure tester I'd screw it on and read the pressure in the fuel rail.

 

That was actually my next step was the cap and rotor or clean the iac but the engIne lIght Isnt on I was gona have someonw check It to make sure the lIght Isnt burnt out. The vIdeo Is now publIc sorry lol. Thanks

 

To check to see if the light is working just turn the key to "ON" and look. It should light up for a few seconds.

 

I checked to see if it was on and it wasn't, I never knew just turn key to ON position I figured it was like a chevy and would be on while its running lol thanks. Ill try to get my hand on a fuel pressure gauge and see, did the video work for you yet?

 

Ok, maybe I confused you. It is just like a chevy. The way to check to see if the bulb is good is to turn the ignition to the ON position and see if the check engine light lights up for a few seconds. If it does you know the bulb is working. If it's not ON when it's running then there likely isn't a code. This was just a way to check if the bulb is good.

If there is a problem the CEL will be on when the vehicle is running like a chevy or anything else. Being you have a '95 it's likely you have an OBDII connection on the console under the coin holder. If so you can always go to a parts store and use their OBDII reader to see if you have any stored codes.

Best part is you have an OBDI self diagnostic panel under the hood that does all the cars systems like air bag and brakes and it's all self contained and DIY !! I love that about 850s.

 

Ahhh im stupid hah, yeah the bulb is out because it did not show at all, im going to have it checked to see if any codes are on it. It is obd2 and has one under coin slot . Thanks again for your information it helps a lot seeing I don't know very much about Volvos just older cars and trucks.

 

 

Even though you have the OBDII port you still likely have the self diagnostic port under the hood. I'd use it or drive the car to a parts store and have someone check to see if there are codes in the computer, write them down and see if they will reset it. Some will some won't. They actually aren't supposed to as some folks will drive in get the CEL reset and then show it to a buyer hoping the light won't come back on.

If they won't you can do it yourself with the panel under the hood.

 

LOL, wouldn't matter since the bulb is out.

 

With the bulb burnt out you can still read the codes out of the computer.

 

ok I got codes, PO301 Cyl #1 misfire, PO303 Cyl #3 misfire, PO102 Mass air flow low input, and then a codes we couldn't find under Volvo P1310 but we found it for other foreign cars and for saab, Honda, Toyota it was a ign coil code . Any ideas? The mass air flow is new apparently it was 400$ , Get a Ign coil see what happens or? Thanks guys. oh he reset the codes and the car did same thing.

 

The reason for resetting is sometimes a car will have a problem and someone will drive on it like that for some time and the one problem can cause other codes to pop up. If you are lucky some times you can reset and just get a code that's causing the others. Plus you know if they reset right away it's a real failure you need to address.

Make sure you're checking wiring and connections too. The code might be coil but there might be more to it than a bad coil. Poor or broken connection will cause the coil to fault out.

I would try to get video of the spark and post it so we can take a "look" at it before you replace the coil. It's running and I doubt it's a bad coil. Might want to do the cap and rotor first so you know that secondary circuit from coil to plug is good.

Have you done the fuel filter yet. You need to check the fuel pressure too before you start replacing more parts in the hope of hitting the problem.

With the misfires I'd do the cap and rotor now, check fuel pressure next and then see were you are at how it runs and if you still have codes.