Considering buying a 1995 volvo 850 with 93k original miles for $450. Body is in great shape and the Owner says that it has sat since March due to an electrical problem.

Here's what the owner had to say about the problem:

"My dad had put it in the shop before to find why it would have a hard time starting sometimes but they didn't figure it out. I've changed the camshaft position sensor, coil and spark plugs. The last time it ran it was running rich and rough. It could need an oxygen sensor or a computer. I really don't know."

Is the car worth buying? If so what are common electrical problems that plague this car?

 

Get the codes read.

Common electrical problems? The windshield wiper pump wiring disintegrate and cause the pump not to work. That's the only one I know of.

 

Excellent buy at that price, if you enjoy fixing them. Worst case scenario, in the case of total failure, you can part it out and multiply your money.


Personally, after I did this once, I bought about 7 more at $400 each and all would run except 1, on which a cam bearing locked up. I've enjoyed it, but it may not be the best use of my time or yours.


I enjoy fixing electrical problems, but to be honest, you don't really know that the car has an electrical problem. All you know is they couldn't fix it. It doesn't really sound like electrical trouble, when people are changing spark plugs. electrical problems don't make a car "run rich". It's not too unusual for people who can't fix a car to also not know what's wrong with it.


P.S. If you don't buy it, I'd like to, if it's not too far away.

 

my 2 cents is buy it. My feeling about the 850s is that there are a common set of fault areas which can be systematically diagnosed. ECU problems are rare, sensors are connectors are more common. The 95s have a diagnostic port which lets you pull codes without an OBD2 reader (an LED semaphores out the codes) - a nice little feature to have. Take a look at the How To DIY sticky on diagnosing problems and the one on new buyers. BTW, Book value on an 850 in fair condition is 1200, in good 2000... Running rich typically points to vacuum leaks or poorly tuned cars, but can occasionally be a part like a MAF sensor, Fuel pressure regulator, MAP sensor or an O2 sensor. What I'd do is 1) read the codes 2) inspect vacuum lines starting with the vacuum tree under the throttle cable tensioner, 3) do a stage zero tune up (cap, rotor, wires, copper core plugs) 4) diagnose the codes with the forum.

 

That is how I got started, actually. My first one was a 94 Turbo with a big hole in the rubber elbow right at the throttle. Any leak in the plumbing after the MAF throws off the MAF, and there's a lot of plumbing.

 

That's great to know. I might ****** it up. Not really looking to make much money off it. Just looking to become more knowledgeable at fixing up Volvo's.

 

So by throwing the MAF off it could lead to the car not running? And with the MAF failure should I be worried about engine damage of any sort?

 

Question 1 yes. Question 2 no.


However, in life, you should always be worried about engine damage. You can't presume results based on a total information vacuum.

 

Assuming the engine cranks over (ie timing belt is in working shape), you should be able to do a compression test. Also inspect the oil dipstick and filler cap (foam could be condensation or a head gasket), you can do a coolant HC test (kits run about $40) again to see if there's a head issue but starting needs spark, fuel, compression and the correct mix. If it sputters and dies then I'd suspect mixture (ie vacuum or intake leaks). Also when MAFs go out electrically, they will throw codes - so check the diagnostic module for any stored codes (instructions at volvotips.com). I think for the price, the current owner may not want to be bothered with a compression test but if you provide the gauge they may comply (requires pulling the spark plugs). There are also date codes on the spark plug wires to check while you are in there... Short of a failed timing belt, I'd expect the block would be in good enough shape to run even with a head gasket or cylinder head issue...