Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

1997 850R Turbo Wagon - Best way to go about replacing the turbo for this car?

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Old 07-11-2012, 06:05 PM
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Default 1997 850R Turbo Wagon - Best way to go about replacing the turbo for this car?

I need to replace the turbo for a 1997 850R turbo wagon.
Does anyone know where to find a complete turbo kit? I've searched all over the net with no luck.
Or what is the best way to go about replacing the turbo?
 
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:36 PM
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Whats wrong with your turbo??
or
Are you just wanting to upgrade?
 
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:29 PM
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I don't know exactly what's wrong, I'm buying the car from a friend and my mechanic looked at it and there was oil in the return turbo hose, the one leading to the engine, and it looks like there's an oil leak around the oil pan. So he told me its gonna need the turbo replaced.
The turbo does work though I didn't notice any problems while driving it.

I found a remanufactured factory turbo for a 850 on ebay for $700, but it doesn't say it would fit the R model, just the 850 series. does that matter?
Is there a place I can send my turbo to be rebuilt instead?
 
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:03 PM
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Are you able to see the info plate on the intake side if you pull the intake from the air cleaner down to the turbo off ?? The numbers on the turbo would tell you what it is and then you'd be able to find out if it's the right one or something else.

If yours is just leaking oil a rebuild would be the way to go unless you wanted to upgrade. If you're happy with it as is a hundred dollar Mitsubishi rebuild kit would be the way to go.

Do you have the skills and tools to pull the unit off yourself ??

You might be able to rebuild it yourself, I've done a couple now and they aren't very hard. Just need a nice clean table and a really good "C" clip tool to get the really heavy one that holds the intake housing to the center (CHRA). It's just a matter of dis assembly, cleaning and careful reassembly.

You can also call a few diesel repair shops in your area. They are doing them for the trucks all the time and should be willing to toss a quote your way. That or call a parts store in your area and ask if they have a commercial account that does performance work and rebuilds turbos. They won't send you to a poor customer of theirs so it would be a solid referral. Call during the day and ask for the "commercial guy", they understand.

I've been trying to get my hands on a 19T and I'm having the same problems searching all over the place but not finding what I want. I have a rebuilt 16 sitting here but I'm thinking by the time I get it on and pay for the ARD tune I'll be wishing I had the 19 Then I'm back to looking for a 19 and then having to pay to upgrade the tune from ARD. Speed costs and I'm still not sure how fast (expensive) I'm willing to go.

Picture is of my 16 torn down with the cruddy parts before cleaning or replacing. That's not the big "C" clip I was referring to.
 
Attached Thumbnails 1997 850R Turbo Wagon - Best way to go about replacing the turbo for this car?-dirty-parts-impellers.jpg  

Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 07-11-2012 at 09:10 PM.
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:06 PM
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I'd check the turbo if the car was at my place :/

I'll be buying the car tomorrow.

Ya there's only some oil in the turbo hose that leads down to the engine and oil on the oil pan and around the oil plug but it doesnt drip.
We did a compression check and each cylinder was about 128lbs so there's no loss of power.


I'm happy with it as is i just want the turbo running good. What's this mitsubishi rebuild kit? I probably couldnt do it myself and i dont know if i'd trust or want to let my mechanic do it.
i was looking on Midwest Turbo Connection, my buddy im getting the car from sent his turbo for his Audi to be rebuilt there for about $400. I'm considering sending mine there as well if they can rebuild it.

Do you think it could just be a clogged pcv system causing the oil in the hoses?
 
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:22 PM
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First off, if there's oil around the oil return line from the turbo to the pan, it's not the turbo, it would be the gasket between the turbo and the line and/or the o-ring at the pan. The only way to check to see if the turbo is really bad is if you have smoke while driving, like when you accelerate hard.

Don't replace the turbo if that's not what is exactly wrong. Get the car, pull off the intake pipe and check the turbo for shaft play.

And don't waste your money getting the turbo rebuilt. Used 15Gs can be had for like a hundred bucks.

Secondly, 128 is pretty low for a compression test. You want to be around 160-180.
 
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:55 PM
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Ok good to know, i'll have more specific information tomorrow on the oil issue.
Definitely will not be getting the turbo rebuilt if it doesnt need it.

are the 15g's the turbos in the '97 850R wagons?

Is the oil issue most likely the culprit for the low compression you think?
 
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Old 07-12-2012, 02:33 AM
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Extra oil in the intake is a sign the turbo seals are leaking. If you pull the intercooler hose off the bottom of the intercooler and see a little oil pooled in that hose it's likely the turbo is leaking. The oil on the outside of the engine could be from anything and it's a matter of doing a little cleaning and then monitoring to see if you can find a trail.

There are three exhaust housings. The 15G '94 & '95 are usually a conical or semi ball shaped and was only used for those two years, not very desirable and likely a downgrade from what you have. You likely have a straight outlet which is the second biggest and more common and then there is the angled.
In the picture you can see the size difference from right (conical) to left (angled)

The turbo is make by Mitsubishi and the rebuild kit is just that. It's also made by Mitsubishi and contains new seals, bearings and parts to renew the turbo. There are less expensive alternatives but the belief is that the quality of the cheaper kits is also cheaper.

The picture isn't the correct kit but you get the idea. The bigger "C" clip is the one you need a good tool for. It takes a strong hand to get that sucker out of there to pull the housing off.

This should be a must read for a new owner with questions.
Modding your 2.3L FWD Turbo Volvo 850, 70-series [Archive] - Turbobricks Forums
 
Attached Thumbnails 1997 850R Turbo Wagon - Best way to go about replacing the turbo for this car?-exhaust-cat-stock.jpg   1997 850R Turbo Wagon - Best way to go about replacing the turbo for this car?-turbo-outlet-flanges.jpg   1997 850R Turbo Wagon - Best way to go about replacing the turbo for this car?-turbo-rebuild-kit.jpg  

Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 03-24-2013 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Kiss4aFrog
15G's only came on 94 and 95's. They take a different connection at the exhaust housing so it's unlikely someone would have switched one onto your car.

I wouldn't put a 15G onto your vehicle due to the exhaust housing not bolting up to your exhaust without modification. You would need to replace or modify the downpipe that comes off the turbo and contains the catalytic converter.

You might be able to buy a cheap good condition 15G and transfer your exhaust housing over to it and then it would be a bolt on !!
The 15G is a conical or semi ball shaped and was only used for those two years,
No, no, and no.

15Gs came on every turboT5 model on volvo 850s. Not just 94/95. Only 94/95 got the conical housing.

If he has a turbo, and it's not LPT, he already has a 15G on it. And you don't need to modify the downpipe, if he gets a 15G with a different housing than the one he has on his current turbo, just swap exhaust housing. One bolt, remove the v-band clamp, and swap. Takes all but 5 minutes to do.

15Gs came with straight exhaust housings too.
 
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:52 AM
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Sorry and Thanks.

Everything I've read said a 15G only came on a 94 and 95 model and never said anything about a 15g with a straight or angled exhaust housing being used on any other years. I can see where they should have been a little clearer about that exhaust housing. They were saying the exhaust housing (conical) only came on 94-95 but the 15G was used with other housings on other years. So it's not necessarily the 15G you want to stay away from it's just the conical exhaust housing that was fitted to 94 & 95's you want to stay away from as it's a bit more restrictive and would necessitate some sort of adapter to fit with his current downpipe.
 

Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 07-12-2012 at 11:58 AM.
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