hey all, as some of you know, I just got back from a 14,000 km trip across the USA and everything went great (except the engine mount in Utah) till now. I have two issues that I have a few question to ask before I tackle. I am ex-military and we have a base here in Halifax that has a full blown Auto Club with hoists, complete auto tool crib and all the extras, so access to that side of things is easy.....Knowledge sometimes is not.

#1.. My pcv system (evap) is clogged pretty good (all the symptoms are there). This started halfway during the trip.....so (as instructed by my mech...I cut the hose between the turbo and the canister)(just under the distributor cap)smelly yes, but at least I didnt blow any seals. Now Ive bought the kit from FCP and are ready to tackle the job. My main question on this job is...should I replace the EGR Diaphram at the same time (oh sorry forgot..1995 850 turbo wagon 4.3 20valve) its looking pretty old and it would be easy to get at with everything apart. Also is there any other parts (not included in the kit) that I should consider replacing while im in there? Finally on this subject.....while I have the injectors exposed, is there anyway to test them, clean them to make sure they are in good condition....I check on the price to replace them and its not pretty.


#2.. A couple of days ago I noticed a slight whining noise coming from the engine when I acclerated from a dead stop. I also tried it with foot on the brake and a little gas...it was there....but not in N or P, only with a load on the engine. So now I'm thinking tranny probs. I flushed the tranny 3 times before I went on the trip and the color and level are good. So off to my Tranny shop I go to let them have a listen. Dan said that it was not coming from the tranny, but the Turbo area and he called it a whirlling noise. (Very low at this point and no whistle sound famous with turbos). OK, so now Im off to a little shop I heard about called European Auto World (very recommended in my part of the woods) Well to my suprise the mech there acctually use to own my car....LOL...about 3 yrs ago and was suprised in what good condition the car was in for 278,000K. He also told me that he had replaced the turbo about 3.5yrs ago with a used one (a very good used one according to him), but he listened to the sound and said it looks like its starting to fail....not sure how long. He said I could get up to another 10,000 K before thing get bad to worse. Now a little story to add....When we were down in the USA I changed my oil every 5000k, on the last oil change in NY I went to one of those rapid lube places and they sold me on some sort of ENVIRO OIL.....now I really didnt trust it all that much, but I figured I would change it when I got back. (its still in there at about 6000K). Now, Im gonna change it this weekend.....the guy at European said there was a 20% chance that the oil might be causing the noise....I guess we will find out....Now come the following questions.

1.. could the combo of the evap and bad oil cause this whirlling sound?
2.. If no to #1, how long do anyone think I have on the turbo (expensive and have to start saving)

3.. I could not find any full turbos at FCP...is this dealer only?

4.. Can the Turbo be refurbished in anyway?

5.. I dont trust any Junkyards to sell me a used one as I want this car to go as long as possible with out replacing again....so is there any of you EXPERIENCED Members out there that might be able to find one and Im willing to pay pretty good to have it shipped up here to Halifax, I trust your judgement on the condition of a used one then any Junkers here.

I know this is a long one (having fun yet TECH...LOL) but Id like to try to do most of this work myself since I have access to the facilities (10.00 per hr for a hoist and all the tools I need) is not a bad thing.

Thanks a ton in advance to those who took the time to read.

 

That is a lot of questions and I will try to answer all of them for you.

1) The only thing I could think of changing if it has never been done is the ECT. It is the electronic Coolant Temp sensor. It is easy to get to when the intake is off.

2) Yes, it is possible that the clogged PCV could be causing the turbo to fail. The added crank case pressure would make it hard for the oil to flow back into the crankcase and it would get backed up and could overtime clog up the turbo.

3) Unfortunately, we do not sell turbos at FCP. You could just have a the turbo rebuilt. It would be cheaper then buying a new one.

I hope this helps.

 

Chebucto
How to rebuild a turbo,try this

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=48611

 

Thanks for the reply guys. The oil change made a huge diff. The sound is gone and I have pep at the start again. I saved the rebuild link and will rebuild it anyway as a pet project. Does FCP carry any of the rebuild parts? I will also order the ECT sensor and replace that with the EGR Dia when I do the breather system this weekend. Again, thanks to all that had a look at my questions.

 

PS. I am still wondering about the injectors....is there a way to test them or clean them while its all apart?

 

I'm not expert but I think if injectors are bad you would have misfiring codes. To clean injectors you could use techron or lucas injector cleaner. Just empty bottle it in fuel tank. To check for air leak at injector: with car running spray some brake cleaner around injectors. If it suck cleaner in then you need new O ring for that injector.

 

Thanks,,,,maybe I should just replace the O rings while I have it apart anyway.

 

Just did the PCV system in my 850 T-5R and S70. Allow at least 5 hours to do the 850 if you work at a good pace.

The best thing to do is prepare, look over the thread and get everything you need before you start. I did find a few minor differences from photo instructions I found in the STICKY instructions. http://www.lakesidedp.com/uploadpics/pcv/

1. If your engine is dirty, you may want to consider cleaning it before you do the work, it's a very dirty job.
2. Get the fuel return line hose. It will have to be replaced.
3. I also had the FCP kit and I would suggest you get the special tool used to crimp / secure those funny hose clamps. I got them at NAPA for about $26 US.
4. Get a few extra clamps, all sizes. I would get 4 of each. Small, med, & larger.
5. I had a steel line of some sort (pipe) under my throttle valve that had to be disconnected. Was not in the instructions. Tight area so it took a little time disconnecting it.
6. Use rags or something to cover big turbo hose holes so you don't drop things into the holes.
7. Do not cut the clamp for the hose that is connected to the top of the idle control valve. Leave that hose connected to the top of the valve, remove the other clamp to the throttle valve.
8. Do not try to clean out the carbon build up in the fuel rail or valve cover. It will only cause that stuff to be flushed into your valve area.

I did not replace seals to my injectors but I think I should have. I did it Sunday and popped a CEL today. Have not checked the code yet but the car is running better.

As for the oil deal, I would not test any oils with a turbo car. Maybe synthetic but other than that I'd stay stock.