Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

850 stalling, hard to start after.

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Old 07-14-2015, 03:42 PM
Rick Almeida's Avatar
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Question 850 stalling, hard to start after.

My 1995 850 t-5r was running just fine one day than it started to stall. It won't start until a few minutes have passed. If i keep the rpm's ridiculously
high it won't stall. I ran the on-board diagnostics here are the results.
A2 I got the following codes 436 Rear HO2S compensation, 522 Rear HO2S Preheating, 153 Rear HO2S signal, 212 Front HO2S signal. I looked them up and got alot of info I coulnt make any sense of. Could someone point me in the right direction.

Many Thanks

Rick
 
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Old 07-15-2015, 10:45 AM
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Maybe you sprung a new leak in the air intake plumbing? it's a long way from the MAF to the engine. when you have an air leak, the O2 sensor results don't match what the engine thinks is going in.
 
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Old 07-21-2015, 10:09 PM
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I had a similar issue with my '93. It was a bad coil.
 
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:40 AM
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the codes are saying the O2 sensors are unable to compensate enough to correct the mixture. I agree with Firebirdparts - start looking for air leaks - theres a few good Youtube vids from Robert DIY, on where to look and how to make a smoke tester. Start by looking at the vacuum tree (under the throttle cable rewind cover), then check the intake tubing etc. Finally you can work your way up to inspecting the MAF and idle air control valve. If they appear oily or dirty, clean with some CRC MAF cleaner (generic carb cleaner is not recommended). If the intake tubing is oily you may have problem with the PCV system so that's something to check out after you get the car running normal. I'd think a bad coil/wires/plugs would throw a 30x code (misfires by cyl) but if you haven't done a tune up in a wire, it can't hurt to inspect plugs, replace wires if old (there's a date stamp on most wires), cap rotor. Coils do fail but its not as common as bad wires/cap/rotor. When checking for the air leaks you may want to inspect the intercooler as well. You may need to do the spray test - ie spray tubes/parts with a bit of carb cleaner to see if some gets sucked in. I think there's also one vacuum tube that goes to the evap system that's usually hard to inspect. When I recently got similar codes, it turned out to be a stub cap was missing on the vacuum tree. since it was a small leak it just threw codes at idle.
 
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