850R Craigslist Find
#1
850R Craigslist Find
Saw a '97 850R sedan on my local craigslist, which I've never seen before, for $1900
Really tempted to check it out. It looks pretty clean, and the guy says everything works, but he doesn't list a milage. He says it needs a PCV kit, but runs and drive. I know a mechanic who specializes in Volvos, and it sounds like a PCV kit would be a few hundred bucks.
Heres the ad.
https://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/5425022114.html
Should I drop everything and look at this car? How expensive will repairs be on an R model? Should I just get a N/A wagon instead?
Keep in mind that I don't currently have a running car.
Really tempted to check it out. It looks pretty clean, and the guy says everything works, but he doesn't list a milage. He says it needs a PCV kit, but runs and drive. I know a mechanic who specializes in Volvos, and it sounds like a PCV kit would be a few hundred bucks.
Heres the ad.
https://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/5425022114.html
Should I drop everything and look at this car? How expensive will repairs be on an R model? Should I just get a N/A wagon instead?
Keep in mind that I don't currently have a running car.
#2
Easy enough to ask what the mileage is.
4K seems pretty high to me as an "R" is mostly a nicer interior and a slightly higher boost in the computer.
This might be part of the problem with the price - - " new suspension, new tires, new brakes, new catalytic converter and exhaust parts"
I'm sure it was all expensive to him but it needs tires, brakes, exhaust and suspension to be sold. Being the stuff is new is a plus but it doesn't add the full value he paid for the stuff.
If he has service records showing it's always been maintained that would be great but just doing repairs before you sell it ...
And if it's a well cared for vehicle why didn't he have the PCV done ??
I'd try to find someone who knows Volvos to go with you to look it over or maybe even ask the mechanic you know what he thinks it's worth or even check with him to see if he'll do a pre purchase inspection.
For the most part an NA isn't going to be much cheaper to maintain as long as the turbo doesn't let go. And the NA IMHO isn't as much fun to drive.
I love my wagon but I haul stuff. Wagon or sedan . . . depends on your lifestyle.
4K seems pretty high to me as an "R" is mostly a nicer interior and a slightly higher boost in the computer.
This might be part of the problem with the price - - " new suspension, new tires, new brakes, new catalytic converter and exhaust parts"
I'm sure it was all expensive to him but it needs tires, brakes, exhaust and suspension to be sold. Being the stuff is new is a plus but it doesn't add the full value he paid for the stuff.
If he has service records showing it's always been maintained that would be great but just doing repairs before you sell it ...
And if it's a well cared for vehicle why didn't he have the PCV done ??
I'd try to find someone who knows Volvos to go with you to look it over or maybe even ask the mechanic you know what he thinks it's worth or even check with him to see if he'll do a pre purchase inspection.
For the most part an NA isn't going to be much cheaper to maintain as long as the turbo doesn't let go. And the NA IMHO isn't as much fun to drive.
I love my wagon but I haul stuff. Wagon or sedan . . . depends on your lifestyle.
#3
No mention of the mileage? How is the headliner? The inside shots dont do much to show the dash. Didnt the '97 years have a weird electronic throttle system? No mention of how the AC or heat are, assume the AC doesnt work and the heater core might need replacing.
By now I've purchased at least 4 Volvos from the St Louis area, all of them required extensive work in some way or another (those broken roads are hard on suspensions). Thankfully 3 were 240s, so it was mostly easy stuff. I'd ask questions, maybe talk him into $1500, budget a second $1500 aside for repairs, the 850 is NOT a cheap car to keep up compared to RWD Volvos.
There is a nice-looking 940 on there if you just need a car, even if the ad strikes me as a bit shady:
https://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/5423923057.html
By now I've purchased at least 4 Volvos from the St Louis area, all of them required extensive work in some way or another (those broken roads are hard on suspensions). Thankfully 3 were 240s, so it was mostly easy stuff. I'd ask questions, maybe talk him into $1500, budget a second $1500 aside for repairs, the 850 is NOT a cheap car to keep up compared to RWD Volvos.
There is a nice-looking 940 on there if you just need a car, even if the ad strikes me as a bit shady:
https://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/5423923057.html
Last edited by 92Sedan; 02-01-2016 at 04:33 PM.
#5
quite a few Volvos have had their odometers quit - If the seller says the odometer is not working or is not accurate, try two things: 1) get a car fax report which will list when the car changed hands, dealer servicing/recalls etc 2) there is a way on some Volvo models to pull the mileage out of the dash cluster - not sure if this needs an ODB2 reader etc (ie on the 94/95 850s you can read via the OBD1 LED). That assumes its the original cluster in the dash...
#6
quite a few Volvos have had their odometers quit - If the seller says the odometer is not working or is not accurate, try two things: 1) get a car fax report which will list when the car changed hands, dealer servicing/recalls etc 2) there is a way on some Volvo models to pull the mileage out of the dash cluster - not sure if this needs an ODB2 reader etc (ie on the 94/95 850s you can read via the OBD1 LED). That assumes its the original cluster in the dash...
I'd check the timing belt too, these models use an interference engine.
#7
info is stored in the drivers information module not the ECU - soit may require the full VIDA set up dealers usually have to read versus an off the shelf OBD2 reader that talks to the ECU. I second the comment on the timing belt - if its been more than 7 years or 70K, get er done along with the serpentine belt and idlers plus a stage 0 tune (wires/cap/rotor/plugs) to "baseline". There's a few vids on Youtube on how to do the PCV - and a few quick tests (rubber glove on oil fill cap or smoke venting out of the dip stick are two). Some even suggest doing a Seafoam treatment prior to the PCV kit to soften the gunk in the ports... (best do your own research on the pros/cons). For $1900 I think this is a great car for somebody not afraid to do their own maintenance.
#8
#10
Just looking at the pics, it looks pretty rough to me, especially the dash top. It also looks like the front bumper lower lip has been repaired and repainted. It looks 20 times better than the rest of the car, that is good.
If you are not a DIY'er or ready to start, stay away from old Volvo's.
If you are not a DIY'er or ready to start, stay away from old Volvo's.
#11
The rapidly dropping price might be a sign of things, either way ask questions and listen to the owners tone carefully.
#12
That aside, not everyone is on the level, but I find that its more ignorance than deviousness that happens on craigslist. Always be wary especially if the area the car is in. I myself live in Toledo, and there are areas, you don't want to purchase from, just because the persons means might never have been enough to take care of it.
Its mechanics themselves that are more likely to be a swindler than people, I was lucky to find the one I have after much research and trying a few out for things I can't tackle myself (partially disabled and work full time)
but that aside I looked at the ad and most likely the car is on the level. I would say that the car is owned by someone who knows something about repairs but maybe can't tackle everyone. If it needs the PCV done it might be just the final thing that they don't want to repair, it can be daunting project to tackle.
$4 grand is probably a high KBB bet, but the R has upgraded suspension, brakes all premium features. I would pay for a that for a mint one with under 150k. with the faded red paint (who this guy might not know it can be buffed, I didn't when I bought mine) fairly clean interior minus the dash a clean car in the rust belt that everything works (like A/C) is worth $1500 any day. Mileage might be higher, I would barter down anything over 200k.
the car was just washed at a car wash and possibly vacuumed in the pictures. however that bottled water sitting on the seat says that the car is kept that clean to me because I would have pulled it out to take photos if I had cleaned the car. Its a driver, not a car bought to flip, those are ones to watch for. Ask for past photos of the car that they have.
Be wary of young kid customization. those wheels are aftermarket and I cant see the radio. If the roads are like they are here in Toledo, it could be that the originals were bent and ugly so they were replaced. I would also say that the items replaced were probably over the ownership of the car not just fix before the car goes out the door. Most people don't do that if they are unloading a car. And he sounds proud of what he did mechanically, sometimes taking care of a car well for one guy is subpar for another.
definitely talk to the owner, go with a friend for safety and always drive the vehicle in-town and up to speed if Something doesn't feel right, walk away. If you were closer, I go with you. If I were in the market myself I would be tempted, I love mine, a 93 red GLT non turbo, and I wish I had the R package
If you think you can handle the tinkering needed, I would say go for it, I have an extra car though and drive "beaters" because I like to work on mine, revitalize them and that such. Be prepared to change the timing belt. keep a buffer that things might go wrong.
But my car was "rough" like this one and so far all ive done is and oil changes and inspect the cars brakes on mine (bolt came loose, common problem) I need to do the timing belt and PCV still (shame on me) but have had no problems in town or my 90 mile commute everyday with 180k... you never know until you go take a look
Let us know what the outcome is
#13
The roads in St Louis can be quite bumpy in some areas, I wouldnt doubt that the original rims were twisted up a bit, no doubt that contributed to the car needing a new lower lip up front as well, suspension, etc.
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