Ok, After all the work I did last summer replacing rear main seal, all suspension bits etc the car has been absolutely perfect....until today!

The wife came home and said the car had made a funny smell like antifreeze. I went outside and check the coolant level since the car was warm and it was fine. I could not see any leaks or other obvious signs of a coolant problem.

So... I took the car for a ride. No smell I think she might have been imagining it or the car just got hot in traffic, BUT>>>>

About a mile into the ride all of a sudden ALL the "idiot lights" started blinking and flashing and the battery light was on kind of dim.

I am fairly sure that the battery connections and grounds are good (the car starts perfect, headlight nice & bright etc.)

It has had a constant issue since I got it a few years back with the ABS light coming on and staying on randomly.

So I am thinking that the electrical portion of the ignition switch is bad? I can jiggle it every which way and it makes no difference but I am leaning in that direction. (mostly because it is 20 degrees outside and I would rather work INSIDE the car than under the hood LOL)

HELP!

 

Other than it being warmer inside the car (making it the job you want to do), why do you suspect the ignition switch? If the switch was going, you should be able to induce symptoms by jiggling it (not always but usually) in various positions (acc, run, etc.).

Did you recheck for coolant leaks after your test drive? I am wondering if the h2o pump may be leaking coolant onto the serpentine belt causing it to slip which could make your alternator light come on. That is probably a stretch since it would have to be a substantial leak to do that. Still i would pressurize the cooling system overnight and ck for leaks and pressure leak down in the AM.

Let us know what you find.

 

My Lights did the same thing, mine was the alternator. The brushes were worn right into the slip ring, didn't help that the dipstck tube had a crack in the middle venting oil vapour into the alternator. As to your ABS light check your codes, mine was 141 and 142. This required the pedal position sensor to be removed and dismantled. Broken solder joints. That ABS light has been on and off annoying me for ages. Hope this helps.

 

My Lights did the same thing, mine was the alternator.....sounds familiar?

Have the alternator tested/check for voltage output if you have a digital multimeter handy. Mine went at 12 years/140,000 miles. Replaced it with a rebuilt Bosch with lifetime warranty at PepBoys. With core, it was approx $230. Wait for Tech and if it does turn out the alternator is shot, make sure that the battery is fully charged before activating the new alternator.


JPN

 

I agree when it does it make sure it isn't overcharging.

 

Guys, Thanks for all the info...I reluctantly let the wife drive it to work this morning. Guess what, It died just inside her parking lot gate at work. Thank God for AAA. They towed it home and it barely started but only 11.7 volts at the battery. I charged the battery for a while and got it to start but still only 11.9 volts. So....Alternator!!?? My sister in-laws had the Voltage Reg go bad and was boiling out the battery (18+ Volts), in this case we have almost no output. I disconnected the battery while it was running and it IMMEDIATELY stalled.

I am probably leaning towards replacing the Voltage reg/brush assembly. Any thoughts as to the odds that the brushes/regulator will cure the problem? I am going with 80+ percent odds. What do you guys think?

 

I would say good chance it will work.

 

Thanks TECH! I assume it is warmer that 19 degrees in Orlando? I am pretty sure that I will need to remove the damn alternator first since these things have 2 different regulators? An suggestions as to what brand replacement? I can get things the next day from FCP Groton since they are only 30 miles away.

 

I don't know of a good brand off hand. I haven't ever replaced just the regulator. The shops I worked at only did entire alt.

Only a little warmer here it was only 28 here this morning at my house!!!

 

I just replaced the reg in my alternator, perfect. Got a new Bosch one of Ebay ($50 US). Where the brushes contact with the slip ring on the alternator make sure that the slip ring is not badly worn down. If it is take it to a auto electrician they can machine or replace the slip rings and probably do bearings if it is getting pulled apart.

 

I would go with a rebuilt Bosch with lifetime/1 year warranty.


JPN

 

Well, I took a chance and bought a regulator ($120 w Next Day Air) I put it in and guess what..NFG!! Same problem. Not charging, Flashing Lights etc.

So....I did some further troubles shooting and this is what I found.

Voltages at the battery terminals are about 12.5 volts running or not. Just slightly higher with the car OFF so I am sure the Alternator is not putting out anything.

Checking the D+ to ground voltage while it is connected to the alternator gives me 2 volts. Disconnected it is 12.6 so the regulator is pushing current to the windings.

BUT..heres the kicker. While the D+ (field voltage) is disconnected all the lights return to normal except I get the Battery Light on Full (obviously) so I am now 99.99999 percent sure than actual ALTERNATOR is BAD!!

I am looking for a local source for a Genuine Rebuilt Bosch.

Anyone want to buy a BRAND NEW regulator for $100 shipped or a used but 99.9% sure it is good one for $50 shipped??

 

Sorry man that sucks!!!!

 

That's gotta suck, nothing worse pulling your car apart, putting it back together only to pull it apart again. You could just take your old alternator to an auto electrician. Its probably just a dud diode or two.

 

Well,

I removed the alternator again and took it apart, but the way these things are put together trying to track down the bad diode or whatever would have been a nightmare. I got a rebuilt alternator for $185 at Advance. Beleive it or not it was a rebuilt BOSCH and had a NEW BOSCH regulator in it.

Installed it and problem solved!!

arzy...Can you elaborate on the removal and dismantling of the pedal postion switch? We are talking about the one in the brake booster right? I am pretty sure mine has an issue. should have something like 7 or 8 different resistance points and mine seems to have 4 or 5.

 

I guess that's why 99% of the people just replace the alternator to begin with. I would hate to have to do it twice.

 

https://volvoforums.com/m_143130/tm.htm If you work you way through this thread you will be able to see how I fixed my brake pedal sensor. When I pulled mine apart the solder was broken to the switch and pc board, same as the pics in this thread courtesy of ozbricks. Typically if this switch is bad the sensor wont read any ressistance at all. Should be around 250 Ohm as a starting point. Just remeber when you pull this switch apart try not to use the lever action as described in the post from Ozbrick rather hold securely in a vice and pull on the plug housing and pop the sensor open. Hope this helps. The OBD1 will throw a fault code 141/142 if this sensor is bad.

 

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
In the A.M. I will pull the sensor and get a look inside. The ABS light has been a P.I.A. since I got the car 3 years ago! I am almost certain I will find the same thing. The light will not come on for a while sometimes if you are real deliberate about how you STOP and GO. Meaning if you come to a complete stop and press the pedal hard and then let it up quick and go it stays out until you make a "half arsed" stop like rolling through a stop sign.

And YES I probably should have replaced the entire alternator first but...since my sister in-laws regulator failed and it was putting out 18 Volts! I assumed these things were built like the proverbial brich outhouse. That made me take the chance on just replacing the regulator. Also, the brushes were worn down to nubs and I thought maybe they were not making good contact and a new reg/brush assembly would have cured it. Had it worked it would have saved me over $150 instead it cost me $100 more.

I will just put the regulator on Ebay. I "cheated" and returned the core minus the original regulator so I can keep that as a spare since it appears to be good.

 

That's what these forums are all about helping out each other. When you do pull your sensor apart and if it does have broken solder joints, apply new solder to both the end cap and the board separately the using a solder siphon suck it of the board and end cap, this removes the older solder and makes for a good contact. I then just simply added solder to both parts again put together and heated up the solder, the solder then melts and creates a great connection. Add a little bit more solder to make a stronger connection and this should stop this problem from happening again.

 

How did the sensor look? did it need soldering?