I have searched this tool 999 5462 on the net to determine what it looks like but I cannot find a picture. Can anyone inform me what this tool looks like or where I can see what it looks like. I want to know if I may use another tool to use to remove the CV shaft on my 850.

 

I have never used a "999" tool to take out an axle. What part are you trying to get out?

To get the axle out of the hub just leave the nut at the end of the axle and give it a good smack with a 5 lb sledge hammer. The right hand axle will just slide out of the transmission after the carrier bearing mount is removed.

The left hand axle has a retainer clip that locks it in place but I just use a 3/4" cold chisel as a wedge to pop it free. Tap the chisel up from the bottom where you can get to it and only go in 1/4" or so from the back of the inner CV joint to avoid damaging the seal on the transmission. It won't take much pressure and only a few taps of the hammer to pop it free.

...Lee

 

I have never installed a CV shaft and was reading the removal instructions. It stated to use this tool so I wanted to see what it looked like to determine if I really needed it. Thanks for the information.

 

Not needed. The half shaft is held into the transmission by a small spring clip. There is even a little lip you can get a screw driver or pry bar on to give it a little nudge and it slides out. The hammer way works or use a wheel puller you can borrow from an auto parts store. You will need to remove the strut from the lower control arm. I like to take the single bolt holding the strut to the arm, others like to remove the arm from the sub frame.

All in all, if you have a shaft ready to go and tools you should be able to swap one out in 30 min. Keep in mind that there is transmission fluid that is going to want to escape.

 

The screwdriver or pry bar method of "popping" the shaft out of the transmission is common. There is a tool that looks like a horseshoe that slides in behind the CV joint and is used with a slide hammer but I've never seen anyone with one or use one.

On the outside end it can be a bit difficult to get the splines loose from the hub. A good penetrating oil like PB Blaster and a hammer work well or you can get a loaner tool from Autozone, Oreilly ... like the one in the picture to give you some mechanical advantage.

 

Is this the tool you were asking about ??
This thing is what goes on a slide hammer to pop the axle out of the transmission. Autozone has it for loan.

I was surprised to find out they also have the tool for checking the cooling system for hydrocarbons ie ... bad head gasket check. 2nd picture. You need to buy the fluid but you can get the tool on a loan.

 

I am not sure as I have never seen this tool. I am going to replace both of my shafts and was reading the instructions on line and it mentioned using this tool so I wanted to see it to determine if I really needed it. Appears that from what others have said I can remove the shafts without it.
Thanks!

 

Ozark Lee: do you leave the nut on the axle shaft so as to avoid damaging the threads on the end, or does it serve another purpose?

I ask because 1) I'm thinking there's a bit of unthreaded "lead" at the end, which would protect the threads, and 2) this might also serve to limit the motion of the axle, when it's hit.

Thanks.

 

Dont hit it, get a puller. You jack up the threads and your in for a lot of work to correct it.

Here is an axle



Here is the puller I use on mine



Here is how they match up.



Here is the other side that snaps into the differential.

 

You should always take the nut off by hand. Using an impact is much easier but you are transferring some of that pounding on the nut down the shaft and into the transmission. Some people talk about having someone hold the brake and use an impact, it's just safer to break it free when it's on the ground with a breaker bar and most likely a "cheater" on the end to increase your advantage.

As for pounding the axle, I'm lazy and I'll hit it a couple times to see if it will move. I'll use the nut if it's threaded to the end and if it's a flanged nut I'll turn it around as it makes a bigger target. I'm in Minnesota and the chances are good it's almost rusted to the the point of being seized in this area. Penetating oil like PB Blaster helps and some shafts pound free pretty easy. If it's not moving or you're really smacking it to get any movement the "axle flange puller" would be a better choice. Not sure why it's called a flange puller but it bolts to the lug studs with your lug nuts (reverse them so the flat of the nut is against the tool) and pushes the shaft free of the splines. It's another loaner tool from Autozone, Oreilly or ....

It's also handy as a hub bearing assembly remover if you remove the threaded screw and attach it to a slide hammer.