Couple questions:

Did 302s this weekend. Last week my brake light came on after I tried bleeding my rear brakes and I couldn't. Obviously came on because the brake system was working overtime to make up for the unbled brakes. However, I installed all new calipers, had to put in a new rear driver hard brake line to the caliper, I bled all the brakes using a Motive Power Bleeder, I started the car, and the brake pedal still felt kind of squishy and the brake light was still on. Do I need to go through and bleed the brakes again? Do I need to just pump the brakes? I'm replaced pads many times before, but never calipers and haven't done much in the way of bleeding the brakes. Any thoughts?

Also, I had an ABS/TRACS lights on, the code I pulled for it was "driver front sensor open/short". I replaced the sensor and spliced in a new plug. The ABS light is still on but the TRACS light is off. I also cleared the codes, ran the car, and pulled the codes and I get 1-1-1 meaning I have no codes stored. Do I have to drive the car a bit for the ABS light to turn off or something?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have to drive the car tomorrow and will have time to bleed the brakes again in the morning if that is what I have to do. I don't know if it just requires some driving time for system to build pressure again or what. Thanks.

 

what Ive always done is gravity bleed my lines and just kept putting fluid in and NOT pumping them, from what i know pumping them can agitate the bubbles in the line and make it harder to get them out. i have had good luck so far with just gravity bleeding the lines. just turn the bleed on the caliper put a small hose on it so you can drain into a container. after letting them bleed for a while then you can pump them. Also Ive done them 1 and all 4 at a time before.

 

bled the brakes again and there was a ton of air in them. I think it was from when I unscrewed the power bleeder. I unscrewed it from the reservoir and not the bleeder. The brakes still feel kind of mushy though. I don't know if it's just because I put new pads and rotors on too, so I need to bed those, or if there's still air in the system. No clue. I'll take it for a spin and see how it feels.

 

Yes take it for a spin. If you have 111 then drive it and the light should go out.
If you keep getting the code it might be the module. I have to replace my module as well my lights come on after a 23 miles drive almost every time. I have opened a few up but not been able to find the bad solder joint as of yet. I am pushing mine big time trying to find out what needs to be fixed on it.

 

ABS light went off. However, I still have the BRAKE light. The brakes feel good. It came on when I couldn't bleed the rears so I'm assuming it came on because it recognized that the system was working overtime to produce the same amount of stopping power. Will that light take a little bit to go off? Do I have to clear it somehow?

 

Is the fluid level slightly low?
That light usually only comes on due to low fluid.

 

To make this right, start over. Undo the bleeder screw and wrap the threads in teflon tape to seal around the threads. Use a vacuum bleeder starting the the RR, then LR, then RF and finally LF. You will need 2 pts of DOT 4 fluid to get this done right. After each wheel, remove the suction hose and wait until fluid drips out, then tighten bleeder.

Pump the brake pedal at each wheel after tightening the bleeder screw, repeating the above procedure for each wheel. DO NOT LET THE FLUID LEVEL GET TOO LOW IN THE RESERVIOR.

When you are all the way around, you'll have solid brakes. If not, you may need a new master cylinder.

As far as the ABS, every single Volvo of that vintage that I had ever purchased for resale that had an ABS/BRAKE light was a bad module. Getting them repaired with a lifetime warranty is in the $80 range. Do that before doing anything else.

The codes that you get out of an ABS system with a bad module means nothing.