My ABS light came on and I noticed that my dayling running lights as well as turn signals were not working.Any ideas? I checked the fuses and the appear fine

 

What year of car? Mileage? Any recent repairs relating to brakes or electrical? If you have the OBD1 system, read the codes and post back. Otherwise, consider getting the codes read by a shop to post back here.

 

It's 950 850 turbao wagon with 134k on it.I just changed my shocks and control arms yesterday

 

If it's a 95, you should be able to read your codes. Do so and post back. Otherwise, get them read at a garage and post back.

 

Hey now Dainos,

I'm lovin' up my little Fuji FinePix as I'm going to try to help you out.

There is a diagnostic port behind your front right headlight for you to pull your ABS (and many other)codes from.

I'm posting some pic's that should help you to pull the codes.

1. Open your hood.
2. Look behind the front right headlight and you'll see two black caps. The one on the right will have a little button looking thing in front with a wire going to it. This is the one that you want.
3. Remove the cap on the right (you will see aRed LED on the right and a black button on the left)and gently remove the wire attached to it.
4. Place this wire in the #3 hole.
5. Turn the ignition on but DO NOT start the car. Dash light should all be lit.
6. Make sure that you have a pen and paper handy.
7. Press the black button one time (about a second) and read and write down the code that flashes. The LED will blink, there will be a pause, it will blink, there will be a pause and it will blink. Count the flashes and write them down. Example 1-2-1. Each code will be a series of three numbers seperated by a pause.
8. Press the button and copy down the codes untill you find them repeating. When you come back to the first code that you copied, you have gotten all of the codes.
9. This is very important - POST the codes here so that others can give you more information about the codes that you find.
10. When done, remove and replace the wire where you found it, replace the cap, turn the key to the off position and go inside and [sm=icon_guiness.gif]while you POST the codes.

Here is a list of what you might find:

ABS and TRACS fault codes A3

CODE MEANING

1-1-1 No Fault Detected
1-2-1 LH Front Wheel Sensor – faulty signal at speeds less than 25 mph (40 km/h)
1-2-2 RH Front Wheel Sensor – faulty signal at speeds less than 25 mph (40 km/h)
1-2-3 LH Rear Wheel Sensor – faulty signal at speeds less than 25 mph (40 km/h)
1-2-4 RH Rear Wheel Sensor – faulty signal at speeds less than 25 mph (40 km/h)
1-4-1 Faulty Brake Pedal position sensor, shorted to earth or supply
1-4-2 Faulty stop light switch, open circuit or short circuit
1-4-3 ECU memory fault
1-4-4 Brake discs overheated (cars with TRACS only)
2-1-1 LH Front Wheel Sensor – no signal when moving off
2-1-2 RH Front Wheel Sensor – no signal when moving off
2-1-3 LH Rear Wheel Sensor – no signal when moving off
2-1-4 RH Rear Wheel Sensor – no signal when moving off
2-2-1 LH Front Wheel Sensor – no signal from ABS system
2-2-2 RH Front Wheel Sensor – no signal from ABS system
2-2-3 LH Rear Wheel Sensor – no signal from ABS system
2-2-4 RH Rear Wheel Sensor – no signal from ABS system
3-1-1 LH Front Wheel Sensor – open circuit or short circuit
3-1-2 RH Front Wheel Sensor – open circuit or short circuit
3-1-3 LH Rear Wheel Sensor – open circuit or short circuit
3-1-4 RH Rear Wheel Sensor – open circuit or short circuit
3-2-1 LH Front Wheel Sensor - intermittent signal at speed over 25 mph (40 km/h)
3-2-2 RH Front Wheel Sensor - intermittent signal at speed over 25 mph (40 km/h)
3-2-3 LH Rear Wheel Sensor - intermittent signal at speed over 25 mph (40 km/h)
3-2-4 RH Rear Wheel Sensor - intermittent signal at speed over 25 mph (40 km/h)
4-1-1 Inlet valve for LH front brake, open circuit or short circuit
4-1-2 Return valve for LH front brake, open circuit or short circuit
4-1-3 Inlet valve for RH front brake, open circuit or short circuit
4-1-4 Return valve for RH front brake, open circuit or short circuit
4-2-1 Inlet valve for rear brakes, open circuit or short circuit
4-2-2 Return valve for rear brakes, open circuit or short circuit
4-2-3 TRACS valve, open circuit or short circuit
4-2-4 TRACS pressure sensor, faulty or short circuit
4-4-1 ECU processing fault
4-4-2 Hydraulic modulator pump pressure low
4-4-3 Electrical or mechanical fault in hydraulic modulator pump motor
4-4-4 No power supply to hydraulic modulator valves

It's very improtant that you let us help because that's why were here.

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Thanks Quick Brick and everyone else who took time out to post.I will check the codes later today.However, for some strange reason the ABS light is no longer on

 

Hey now Dainos,

I'm that I was able to help. I'm using my laptop for an in-car entertainment/navigation systemand I loaded up myemails before I went to work so that I can go through them during breaks and when I read yours I thought "Hey, I can help this guy" so when I got home, just after midnight, I grabbed the camera and took the shots (that's why the back ground is black, turned out pretty good though [sm=smiley36.gif]) and posted them for you. Makes me feel good to finally be one of the first to respond [sm=signs007.gif].

There others here, like Tech and JPN, who have helped me with some tough problems and I can't [sm=smiley32.gif]them enough.

It's cool that the ABS light has gone off/out but that doesn't mean that the problem is gone. You'll need to pull the codes and post them as there may be something that still needs attention.

I, currently, have an ABS/Tracs light on and for some reason it doesn't come on right away all the time. Sometimes I can go for miles/kilometers(Canada ay)without it lighting up and other times I can go two feet and "boing" it will come on right away.

I'm fairly certain that it's a sensor (front left)and looking around have found different prices for it but I had a computer crash recently and, of course, lost all of the web sites, links, photos of the Anviland other good stuff collected so everytime I get the chance to grab a pic and post to help, I'm more than to.

Anyhow, check your codes and post them.

If your feeling adventurous, you can use the same procedure to check and see what other codes you might have.

To clear the codes,

1. Press and hold the button down for about ten seconds, release, when the LED lights up(while it is lit)press and hold the button down again for ten seconds and release. (Thank you Tech and JPN)
2. Press the button for a second and see if there are any codes(the same as in the previous post) and if there are, write them down and post them here.
3. Follow step #1 again and if all is well you should get the golden 1-1-1 which means all is well .

I gotta go to Ottawa now and will be back to see what ya got for codes so "giterdone [sm=icon_rofl.gif]" and I hope all is well.

Oh ya, drop a [sm=Flahssssss.gif]of your ride here so we can see what ya got [sm=smiley20.gif].

[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

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Hello,


I realize this is an old thread. Apologies if I'm in the wrong place. I've searched and searched and this is the best thread I've found.


Anyway, I have an A-3 code of 4-2-1. Which according to this thread is "Inlet valve for rear brakes, open circuit or short circuit."


What do I do now? Where do I find this inlet valve for the rear brakes? Any help is very much appreciated.


Thank you in advance.


Cheers,
Kevin

 

All those valves are built into a block that is mounted under the master cylinder. I am not at all trained on the servicing of this system, but I think based on the error text you posted the ABS computer is seeing zero volts on that wire. That is all the computer really knows. The problem might not be the valve itself.

 

I had a stuck valve on my '00 S40. Didn't even get an ABS light, just no fluid/pressure to the right front tire. Picked up an ABS unit (complete with controller) from a local yard for $65, installed, bled the brakes and good to go.

 

Thank you firebirdparts for your response, I'm grateful.

 

Thank you mt6127.


I do have more questions, if you have the time...


When you say ABS unit ( complete with controller), what exactly does that mean?


First of all, there is nothing below my m/c. Everything is to the right and in front of the M/C.


There is a computer to the right of the M/C, and below that computer, there is what appears to be a pump??? I'm not sure it's a pump. I think it has 6 inlet or outlet brake lines. Which is the controller, and which is the ABS unit? One of those must be a computer, right? Is this just an ABS computer, or is this the entire computer for the whole car? Sorry, I didn't take any pictures. I will tomorrow if need be.


Today I cleaned all connections and searched for any bare wires that may be shorting/grounding. I didn't find any wires that might be 'open' or 'short.' After that (cleaning any connections I could find) I cleared the code 4-2-1, and took the 850 for a long drive with multiple speeds. The ABS dash light is still on, and didn't go out while driving. After the drive I read the A-3 Codes, and got 4-2-1 again. A-2 test appear to be good with the 1-1-1 code. It doesn't appear to be a dead short, so what am I looking at next?


I appreciate your help in advance. Thank you.

 

make sure you clear the codes on all ports to the 1-1-1. The S40's ABS has two parts - the electronics side with the solenoids that control the valves and the valve body which has the brake lines coming out of it. My 850 is not at home so I can't snap a pic to compare (I have the old S40 part if a picture helps) but you should be able to find a replacement fairly well priced for the unit. Sounds like it could be a cold solder joint in the controller card. Check out: Volvo ABS Problems Good news is on most models you can replace the controller without opening the system

 

That is really interesting. So you can replace the electrical part of the valves, with the brains attached, and without seeing the brake fluid. I wonder if any other manufacturers used valves like that.

 

yep, in fact on Victor's web page he notes you can drive the car while he's repairing the controller board... I will post a pic or two of the ABS box I took out of the S40 to show what I mean...

 

So here are some photos. what is what here??