AC and PS pump loosening for engine removal?
#1
04-30-2007, 11:44 PM
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AC and PS pump loosening for engine removal?
I have a 97 Volvo non turbo with auto trans. I am following the haynes manual to pull the engine and transmission together. I want to get it all out and replace hoses and the timing belt at tthe same time. Haynes says to remove two long bolts on the AC compressor but it looks like it has four holding it. Would I be better off to remove the PS pump and unhook its hoses, pull the alternator, and then access the AC compressor and leave it connected to the hoses and set it on the subframe? Has anyone ever pulled their engine? Any tips if you have?
Thanks,
Rob
Thanks,
Rob
#2
05-09-2007, 12:03 AM
RE: AC and PS pump loosening for engine removal?
Hello Rob,
Haynes is often not very thorough, and I wouldn't be surprised if there were more than 2 bolts for the compressor; I assume there is at least another one, though I'm not 100% sure.
A gentleman by the name of Psaboic has recently removed his A/C compressor, and when Psaboic's available he might be able to give you better description than I could.
I just came back from an 11-day trip so I'm trying to catch up. I'll go through my manual to see if it has an instruction for engine removal, unless you've already succeeded.
Regards,
JPN
Haynes is often not very thorough, and I wouldn't be surprised if there were more than 2 bolts for the compressor; I assume there is at least another one, though I'm not 100% sure.
A gentleman by the name of Psaboic has recently removed his A/C compressor, and when Psaboic's available he might be able to give you better description than I could.
I just came back from an 11-day trip so I'm trying to catch up. I'll go through my manual to see if it has an instruction for engine removal, unless you've already succeeded.
Regards,
JPN
#3
05-09-2007, 05:11 AM
RE: AC and PS pump loosening for engine removal?
Hello again,
I just went throughEngine Removal section in the manual, and it does say "...remove 2 through bolts from the compressor and leave the compressor until removing engine". But it also says to leave the compressor on the subframe, means it simply stays there while the engine isout. At this point I am not able to give you any more alternatives; you could perhaps visit a local dealer and ask one of their techs.
I'm not sure at this point if this helps, but I'll post 4 pics on engine removal, which are similar to Haynes. I'll delete them within the next 7 days so make sure to save them in your PC.
JPN
Attachment deleted.
I just went throughEngine Removal section in the manual, and it does say "...remove 2 through bolts from the compressor and leave the compressor until removing engine". But it also says to leave the compressor on the subframe, means it simply stays there while the engine isout. At this point I am not able to give you any more alternatives; you could perhaps visit a local dealer and ask one of their techs.
I'm not sure at this point if this helps, but I'll post 4 pics on engine removal, which are similar to Haynes. I'll delete them within the next 7 days so make sure to save them in your PC.
JPN
Attachment deleted.
#5
05-09-2007, 08:12 PM
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RE: AC and PS pump loosening for engine removal?
JPN,
Thanks for the pictures. I did manage to figure out the compressor (offset wrenches are a must for a couple of the 4 bolts on the compressor) but cannot get the left driveshaft out. I have pryed, pulled, cussed, kicked but it won't budge. The hub is free of the splines but it will not pull from the transmission. All the mounts are loose, rented a hoist, but really need an engine leveler and my own hoist. I hate being under time constraints with rentals. I am almost there though. I plan to take some photos going back in and maybe write a sticky on pulling the engine. I found a torn outer CV boot on the passenger shaft but it looks fresh so I will clean it and replace the boot. While the engine is out I want to check it all over for leaks and change the timing belt and tensioners. 140k on it and while out may as well give it a thorough once over and replace anything even slightly questionable.
By the way , if you are still working on Jets I "so envy you." I am on airliners.net forums in the tech section alot and try to get my hands on anything about aircraft systems. I love the MD-11 myself, flew on one last on a trip to Rome, very comfy. The 777 looks pretty nice. I am off course though, thanks for the photos and I will keep everyone posted on my progress.
Take care,
Rob
Thanks for the pictures. I did manage to figure out the compressor (offset wrenches are a must for a couple of the 4 bolts on the compressor) but cannot get the left driveshaft out. I have pryed, pulled, cussed, kicked but it won't budge. The hub is free of the splines but it will not pull from the transmission. All the mounts are loose, rented a hoist, but really need an engine leveler and my own hoist. I hate being under time constraints with rentals. I am almost there though. I plan to take some photos going back in and maybe write a sticky on pulling the engine. I found a torn outer CV boot on the passenger shaft but it looks fresh so I will clean it and replace the boot. While the engine is out I want to check it all over for leaks and change the timing belt and tensioners. 140k on it and while out may as well give it a thorough once over and replace anything even slightly questionable.
By the way , if you are still working on Jets I "so envy you." I am on airliners.net forums in the tech section alot and try to get my hands on anything about aircraft systems. I love the MD-11 myself, flew on one last on a trip to Rome, very comfy. The 777 looks pretty nice. I am off course though, thanks for the photos and I will keep everyone posted on my progress.
Take care,
Rob
#6
05-09-2007, 11:04 PM
#7
05-10-2007, 02:53 AM
RE: AC and PS pump loosening for engine removal?
Hi Rob,
I'm glad that the pics were of some use.
I'm not sure what's keeping the drive shaft from coming out. When I did the cv-joint boot on the pax-side, the shaft came out with minimal effort. I'll attach 4 more pics, please save them in your PC, as I'll delete them within the next 7 days.
As to replacing the outer cv-joint boot, there is one part that requires utmost attention. The most difficult part is removing the cv-joint; it is held in place by a circlip. This circlip is different from common snap-ring, and you have to "spread the gap", while pulling/tapping on the joint. Haynes tells you like it's nothing, but I ended up breaking the "tangs" of the circlip and ended up pulling the drive shaft and replacing both inner & outer boots. Some people were lucky that the joint came out like nothing, while others had to struggle or replace the entire drive shaft with a rebuilt unit. Tech says he usually replace the entire shaft, but I replaced the boots & grease. My trusted ASE technician, Mr. Jim Sherman in Rutland, Vermont, has a special plier for the circlip, and Jim told me he never had good luck with rebuilt shafts so he usually does replace the boots/joints. But as Tech says it's ok, I believe it is ok to replace the entire shaft. In case if you decide to replace the boot however, make sure not to break the circlip. Haynes tells you to use a flat-blade screwdriver, but I doubt their method; I would use something else to spread the circlip while pulling/tapping on the cv joint. Try to be gentle with the circlip, even though it is upsetting to deal with it while you're trying to replace the boot.
I'll tell you my aviation career on the next post with the latter half of the pics.
JPN
https://volvoforums.com/m_10964/tm.htm
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/FWDbearingHub.php
Attachment deleted.
I'm glad that the pics were of some use.
I'm not sure what's keeping the drive shaft from coming out. When I did the cv-joint boot on the pax-side, the shaft came out with minimal effort. I'll attach 4 more pics, please save them in your PC, as I'll delete them within the next 7 days.
As to replacing the outer cv-joint boot, there is one part that requires utmost attention. The most difficult part is removing the cv-joint; it is held in place by a circlip. This circlip is different from common snap-ring, and you have to "spread the gap", while pulling/tapping on the joint. Haynes tells you like it's nothing, but I ended up breaking the "tangs" of the circlip and ended up pulling the drive shaft and replacing both inner & outer boots. Some people were lucky that the joint came out like nothing, while others had to struggle or replace the entire drive shaft with a rebuilt unit. Tech says he usually replace the entire shaft, but I replaced the boots & grease. My trusted ASE technician, Mr. Jim Sherman in Rutland, Vermont, has a special plier for the circlip, and Jim told me he never had good luck with rebuilt shafts so he usually does replace the boots/joints. But as Tech says it's ok, I believe it is ok to replace the entire shaft. In case if you decide to replace the boot however, make sure not to break the circlip. Haynes tells you to use a flat-blade screwdriver, but I doubt their method; I would use something else to spread the circlip while pulling/tapping on the cv joint. Try to be gentle with the circlip, even though it is upsetting to deal with it while you're trying to replace the boot.
I'll tell you my aviation career on the next post with the latter half of the pics.
JPN
https://volvoforums.com/m_10964/tm.htm
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/FWDbearingHub.php
Attachment deleted.
#8
05-10-2007, 03:20 AM
RE: AC and PS pump loosening for engine removal?
I was at O'Hare until February but had to leave my job & the States, as my work visa was only good for a year (Very upsetting, since there are many citizens & permanent residents who cannot even communicate in English, while I avoided using Japanese as much as possible, respected the way things are in the States and 99.9% of my friends are Americans and they all said the immigration policy in the States is ridiculous. Manyforeigners immigrate to the States either through marriage or relatives so there is not much effort required, while I've graduated from high-school and two 4-year colleges in the States. And did I hear that the feds are considering of giving green cards to some 1.2 million illegal immigrants? Something is really screwed up[8D]). I am currently unemployed but hopefully I can go back to aviation soon, and come back to the States before I get too old.
I worked as a line technician at O'Hare and worked on B747-200, -200 Freighter & -400, B767-200 & -300, B777-200 & -200ER, A330-300 & A340-300 and MD-11 Freighter. I liked B777 & A330 but B767 was the simplest airplane to work on. I was in charge of basic operations, such as servicing engine oil, generator (IDG) oil, hydraulic fluid (Skydrol for flight control),charging the tyres with nitrogen, meeting & departing airplanes, visual inspection on the exterior & interior, accessing the maintenance computers (EICAS & ECAM), etc... I hope to work in a hangar, however. MD-11 was a good airplane, except servicing the engine-2 was a pain (the one on the tail). One minus on MD-11 is thatthe surface area of its horizontal stabilisers were reduced due to stretched fuselage, which contributed to unstable longitudinal stability (pitch). On the contrary, it is hard to find faults on B777s; not one of them has had an accidentin its 12 years of service.B777 utilises fly-by-wire, eliminating mechanical cables for flight controls, except for elevators which still use mechanical cables.
JPN
P.S: While the engine is out, it is a good idea to go after as many oil seals/gaskets as possible, unless they are not leaking. As RedTurbo850 has suggested, I would also do the timing belt, hydraulic tensioner, belt tensioner pulley, and idler pulley. The tensionerpulley is held in place by a Torx, and it is usually very tight. This is done a loteasier with the engine out.
Attachment deleted.
I worked as a line technician at O'Hare and worked on B747-200, -200 Freighter & -400, B767-200 & -300, B777-200 & -200ER, A330-300 & A340-300 and MD-11 Freighter. I liked B777 & A330 but B767 was the simplest airplane to work on. I was in charge of basic operations, such as servicing engine oil, generator (IDG) oil, hydraulic fluid (Skydrol for flight control),charging the tyres with nitrogen, meeting & departing airplanes, visual inspection on the exterior & interior, accessing the maintenance computers (EICAS & ECAM), etc... I hope to work in a hangar, however. MD-11 was a good airplane, except servicing the engine-2 was a pain (the one on the tail). One minus on MD-11 is thatthe surface area of its horizontal stabilisers were reduced due to stretched fuselage, which contributed to unstable longitudinal stability (pitch). On the contrary, it is hard to find faults on B777s; not one of them has had an accidentin its 12 years of service.B777 utilises fly-by-wire, eliminating mechanical cables for flight controls, except for elevators which still use mechanical cables.
JPN
P.S: While the engine is out, it is a good idea to go after as many oil seals/gaskets as possible, unless they are not leaking. As RedTurbo850 has suggested, I would also do the timing belt, hydraulic tensioner, belt tensioner pulley, and idler pulley. The tensionerpulley is held in place by a Torx, and it is usually very tight. This is done a loteasier with the engine out.
Attachment deleted.
#9
05-10-2007, 08:19 PM
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RE: AC and PS pump loosening for engine removal?
JPN,
Thanks again for the other pages. I never did get the drivers axle out but I did get the engine out finally!!! Yes, yes, yes!!! I spent 3 hours fighting with it last night. Today I bought a load leveler for my hoist, cranked it to the correct angle with the timing belt side up higher and got it out even with the left axle still in the transmission. I am attaching a few photos of my success.
Now that I have it out I plan to spend about $500-$600 on a timing belt kit with new idler, tensioner, etc. and various odds and ends that have the potential to go out. I am in no hurry now, I figure fix it up while the engine is out and make it rock solid and ready for another 140k miles.
That really stinks about your visa. I recall hearing about the Feds giving illegal immigrants green cards. It is appalling! I hope you do get to come back over. If my sister was not already married you could marry her and get a green card.
It would be cool to have an airline mechanic in the family. [8D]
The MD-11 was very comfy on a 10 hour flight but seems like I did here that about the stabilizer being smaller on the stretched version. I think a fictional book was written losely based on that exact problem.the plane would start a porpoising routine up and down but they attributed it to ergonomics of the spoiler handle and it being hit accidently. Could not make it to obvious, but once it started it would lead to a crash and the plane was a tri engine with a very similiar name to MD. I cannot remember the name or author but I think I have it in storage in the garage. If I can dig it up I will tell you the name.
Aside from having slightly better pressure stability when heated, does the nitrogen act as a non-flammable gas in case a fire should break out in the gear bay from overheated brakes, etc. Once the thermal plug pops on the tire, does it help prevent a bigger fire? Are there extinquishers in the gear bay area?
Hope the pictures show. I will keep you up to date onhow it is going. Thanks for all your help. I will be rooting for you and a green card. We need more good guys like yourself over here willing to not only work hard but help others like you are doing on this board even though you are back in Japan with no Volvo.
Take care,
Rob
[IMG]local://upfiles/1785/CC77620503B14B50B43D79F7BFA1B058.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/1785/81817516D45C43D4AF03E371EF872763.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/1785/BA1C64FFC24D426F841C5A706F4DB3BE.jpg[/IMG]
Thanks again for the other pages. I never did get the drivers axle out but I did get the engine out finally!!! Yes, yes, yes!!! I spent 3 hours fighting with it last night. Today I bought a load leveler for my hoist, cranked it to the correct angle with the timing belt side up higher and got it out even with the left axle still in the transmission. I am attaching a few photos of my success.
Now that I have it out I plan to spend about $500-$600 on a timing belt kit with new idler, tensioner, etc. and various odds and ends that have the potential to go out. I am in no hurry now, I figure fix it up while the engine is out and make it rock solid and ready for another 140k miles.
That really stinks about your visa. I recall hearing about the Feds giving illegal immigrants green cards. It is appalling! I hope you do get to come back over. If my sister was not already married you could marry her and get a green card.
It would be cool to have an airline mechanic in the family. [8D]The MD-11 was very comfy on a 10 hour flight but seems like I did here that about the stabilizer being smaller on the stretched version. I think a fictional book was written losely based on that exact problem.the plane would start a porpoising routine up and down but they attributed it to ergonomics of the spoiler handle and it being hit accidently. Could not make it to obvious, but once it started it would lead to a crash and the plane was a tri engine with a very similiar name to MD. I cannot remember the name or author but I think I have it in storage in the garage. If I can dig it up I will tell you the name.
Aside from having slightly better pressure stability when heated, does the nitrogen act as a non-flammable gas in case a fire should break out in the gear bay from overheated brakes, etc. Once the thermal plug pops on the tire, does it help prevent a bigger fire? Are there extinquishers in the gear bay area?
Hope the pictures show. I will keep you up to date onhow it is going. Thanks for all your help. I will be rooting for you and a green card. We need more good guys like yourself over here willing to not only work hard but help others like you are doing on this board even though you are back in Japan with no Volvo.
Take care,
Rob
[IMG]local://upfiles/1785/CC77620503B14B50B43D79F7BFA1B058.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/1785/81817516D45C43D4AF03E371EF872763.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/1785/BA1C64FFC24D426F841C5A706F4DB3BE.jpg[/IMG]
#10
05-11-2007, 04:30 AM
RE: AC and PS pump loosening for engine removal?
Hi Rob,
I'm glad that the engine is finally out and you're ready to rejuvenate it. I will go deleting the attachment (I do this because the manuals are a courtesy of Volvo). When doing the timing belt, be sure to read the instructions thoroughly before actually taking things apart. The timing marks on cams & crank pulley are difficult to see, so I used correction fluid to enhance them. Many people have reported that they had difficulty finding the timing mark on the crank pulley, but I found a large botch on the sprocket, on the crank pulley side, which was big enough to see. I wonder if anyone else noticed it.
Here's a good instruction from Bay-13 at Volvospeed:
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt.php
I used this and Haynes to make sure I wouldn't screw up. Be very careful with the hydraulic tensioner cylinder; it is small but exerts enormous force. It bent one of my allen (hex) wrenches
. It also has to face the right side upon installation, and when everything is in place, you yank out the lock pin from the tensioner. When you remove the pin, move it FAST. If you remove it slow, the pin will get stuck and will be very difficult to remove as it is under high tension.
As to fire in the wheel-well, I don't know of an airplane that has fire extinguisher; they are usually for engines & APU only. I don't think nitrogen in the tyres has the capability to suppress fire (although it is better than nothing), so in case if fire breaks out due to brake heat, etc..., the pilots are supposed to put the gears down in flight and let the air stream blow out the fire. One problem on wheel-well fire is that airplane wheels are constructed of magnesium alloy, and they may explode in the worst case scenario. But I haven't head of exploding wheels so far, so they probably do withstand against high temp to a certain extent, otherwise they'll keep exploding at every landing[8D].
Thank you for your kind words, as regard to my current status. I really do hope to come back to the good old States. I think I'm done with Japan.
Best regards,
Kanji/JPN
I'm glad that the engine is finally out and you're ready to rejuvenate it. I will go deleting the attachment (I do this because the manuals are a courtesy of Volvo). When doing the timing belt, be sure to read the instructions thoroughly before actually taking things apart. The timing marks on cams & crank pulley are difficult to see, so I used correction fluid to enhance them. Many people have reported that they had difficulty finding the timing mark on the crank pulley, but I found a large botch on the sprocket, on the crank pulley side, which was big enough to see. I wonder if anyone else noticed it.
Here's a good instruction from Bay-13 at Volvospeed:
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt.php
I used this and Haynes to make sure I wouldn't screw up. Be very careful with the hydraulic tensioner cylinder; it is small but exerts enormous force. It bent one of my allen (hex) wrenches
. It also has to face the right side upon installation, and when everything is in place, you yank out the lock pin from the tensioner. When you remove the pin, move it FAST. If you remove it slow, the pin will get stuck and will be very difficult to remove as it is under high tension. As to fire in the wheel-well, I don't know of an airplane that has fire extinguisher; they are usually for engines & APU only. I don't think nitrogen in the tyres has the capability to suppress fire (although it is better than nothing), so in case if fire breaks out due to brake heat, etc..., the pilots are supposed to put the gears down in flight and let the air stream blow out the fire. One problem on wheel-well fire is that airplane wheels are constructed of magnesium alloy, and they may explode in the worst case scenario. But I haven't head of exploding wheels so far, so they probably do withstand against high temp to a certain extent, otherwise they'll keep exploding at every landing[8D].
Thank you for your kind words, as regard to my current status. I really do hope to come back to the good old States. I think I'm done with Japan.
Best regards,
Kanji/JPN
#11
05-14-2007, 10:38 PM
Join Date: Apr 2005
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RE: AC and PS pump loosening for engine removal?
JPN,
Found the book tonight. It is called "Airframe" by Michael Crichton of Jurasic Park fame. And I remember why it seems to be pointing at the MD-11 shortcomings. The plane in the book is the N-22 made by Norton Enterprises. MD-11 made by Mcdonnell Douglas and an 11 instead of 22. Plus it too is a triple engine monster. Great Book. If you cannot find it at the library let me know and I might be able to mail you my copy.
Hope all is well over there Buddy.
Talk to you later,
Rob
Found the book tonight. It is called "Airframe" by Michael Crichton of Jurasic Park fame. And I remember why it seems to be pointing at the MD-11 shortcomings. The plane in the book is the N-22 made by Norton Enterprises. MD-11 made by Mcdonnell Douglas and an 11 instead of 22. Plus it too is a triple engine monster. Great Book. If you cannot find it at the library let me know and I might be able to mail you my copy.
Hope all is well over there Buddy.
Talk to you later,
Rob
ORIGINAL: robrike
The MD-11 was very comfy on a 10 hour flight but seems like I did here that about the stabilizer being smaller on the stretched version. I think a fictional book was written losely based on that exact problem.the plane would start a porpoising routine up and down but they attributed it to ergonomics of the spoiler handle and it being hit accidently. Could not make it to obvious, but once it started it would lead to a crash and the plane was a tri engine with a very similiar name to MD. I cannot remember the name or author but I think I have it in storage in the garage. If I can dig it up I will tell you the name.
JPN,
Thanks again for the other pages. I never did get the drivers axle out but I did get the engine out finally!!! Yes, yes, yes!!! I spent 3 hours fighting with it last night. Today I bought a load leveler for my hoist, cranked it to the correct angle with the timing belt side up higher and got it out even with the left axle still in the transmission. I am attaching a few photos of my success.
Now that I have it out I plan to spend about $500-$600 on a timing belt kit with new idler, tensioner, etc. and various odds and ends that have the potential to go out. I am in no hurry now, I figure fix it up while the engine is out and make it rock solid and ready for another 140k miles.
That really stinks about your visa. I recall hearing about the Feds giving illegal immigrants green cards. It is appalling! I hope you do get to come back over. If my sister was not already married you could marry her and get a green card. It would be cool to have an airline mechanic in the family. [8D]
The MD-11 was very comfy on a 10 hour flight but seems like I did here that about the stabilizer being smaller on the stretched version. I think a fictional book was written losely based on that exact problem.the plane would start a porpoising routine up and down but they attributed it to ergonomics of the spoiler handle and it being hit accidently. Could not make it to obvious, but once it started it would lead to a crash and the plane was a tri engine with a very similiar name to MD. I cannot remember the name or author but I think I have it in storage in the garage. If I can dig it up I will tell you the name.
Aside from having slightly better pressure stability when heated, does the nitrogen act as a non-flammable gas in case a fire should break out in the gear bay from overheated brakes, etc. Once the thermal plug pops on the tire, does it help prevent a bigger fire? Are there extinquishers in the gear bay area?
Hope the pictures show. I will keep you up to date onhow it is going. Thanks for all your help. I will be rooting for you and a green card. We need more good guys like yourself over here willing to not only work hard but help others like you are doing on this board even though you are back in Japan with no Volvo.
Take care,
Rob
[IMG]local://upfiles/1785/CC77620503B14B50B43D79F7BFA1B058.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/1785/81817516D45C43D4AF03E371EF872763.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/1785/BA1C64FFC24D426F841C5A706F4DB3BE.jpg[/IMG]
The MD-11 was very comfy on a 10 hour flight but seems like I did here that about the stabilizer being smaller on the stretched version. I think a fictional book was written losely based on that exact problem.the plane would start a porpoising routine up and down but they attributed it to ergonomics of the spoiler handle and it being hit accidently. Could not make it to obvious, but once it started it would lead to a crash and the plane was a tri engine with a very similiar name to MD. I cannot remember the name or author but I think I have it in storage in the garage. If I can dig it up I will tell you the name.
JPN,
Thanks again for the other pages. I never did get the drivers axle out but I did get the engine out finally!!! Yes, yes, yes!!! I spent 3 hours fighting with it last night. Today I bought a load leveler for my hoist, cranked it to the correct angle with the timing belt side up higher and got it out even with the left axle still in the transmission. I am attaching a few photos of my success.
Now that I have it out I plan to spend about $500-$600 on a timing belt kit with new idler, tensioner, etc. and various odds and ends that have the potential to go out. I am in no hurry now, I figure fix it up while the engine is out and make it rock solid and ready for another 140k miles.
That really stinks about your visa. I recall hearing about the Feds giving illegal immigrants green cards. It is appalling! I hope you do get to come back over. If my sister was not already married you could marry her and get a green card.
It would be cool to have an airline mechanic in the family. [8D]The MD-11 was very comfy on a 10 hour flight but seems like I did here that about the stabilizer being smaller on the stretched version. I think a fictional book was written losely based on that exact problem.the plane would start a porpoising routine up and down but they attributed it to ergonomics of the spoiler handle and it being hit accidently. Could not make it to obvious, but once it started it would lead to a crash and the plane was a tri engine with a very similiar name to MD. I cannot remember the name or author but I think I have it in storage in the garage. If I can dig it up I will tell you the name.
Aside from having slightly better pressure stability when heated, does the nitrogen act as a non-flammable gas in case a fire should break out in the gear bay from overheated brakes, etc. Once the thermal plug pops on the tire, does it help prevent a bigger fire? Are there extinquishers in the gear bay area?
Hope the pictures show. I will keep you up to date onhow it is going. Thanks for all your help. I will be rooting for you and a green card. We need more good guys like yourself over here willing to not only work hard but help others like you are doing on this board even though you are back in Japan with no Volvo.
Take care,
Rob
[IMG]local://upfiles/1785/CC77620503B14B50B43D79F7BFA1B058.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/1785/81817516D45C43D4AF03E371EF872763.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/1785/BA1C64FFC24D426F841C5A706F4DB3BE.jpg[/IMG]
#12
05-15-2007, 12:14 AM
RE: AC and PS pump loosening for engine removal?
Hi Rob,
Thank you for the referenceto the book, I'll see if I can find it locally.
It is too bad that MD become a part of Boeing. I personally like to see airplanes of different concepts & design philosophy. Japan Airlines once had an accident with one of their MD-11s; it hit turbulence and the captain had to disengage autopilot, then the airplane did nose up & down, which resulted in a death of a flight attendant. It seems to have been caused by the unstable pitch, due to the horizontal stab.
B777 is probably the best airplane to fly & work on at the moment, as it is a twin and many switches have been eliminated andintegrated in EICAS, so it's like playing with Xbox, PlayStation, etc... Each airline has their unique setup too; British Airways has what is called "Runway Deviation Indicator", which is a barber-pole indicator that shows you if the airplane is deviating off the centre of the runway at night/foggy condition.
Airplanes can fly much longer than many people think; many airlines are still flying older airplanes, especially cargo carriers. Many 727s, or even DC-8s & DC-9s are still in service (Delta is still flying B737-222, which was manufactured in late 60s). With proper maintenance, well-designed airplanes can fly well over 30-40 years (or longer).
Thanks again,
JPN
Thank you for the referenceto the book, I'll see if I can find it locally.
It is too bad that MD become a part of Boeing. I personally like to see airplanes of different concepts & design philosophy. Japan Airlines once had an accident with one of their MD-11s; it hit turbulence and the captain had to disengage autopilot, then the airplane did nose up & down, which resulted in a death of a flight attendant. It seems to have been caused by the unstable pitch, due to the horizontal stab.
B777 is probably the best airplane to fly & work on at the moment, as it is a twin and many switches have been eliminated andintegrated in EICAS, so it's like playing with Xbox, PlayStation, etc... Each airline has their unique setup too; British Airways has what is called "Runway Deviation Indicator", which is a barber-pole indicator that shows you if the airplane is deviating off the centre of the runway at night/foggy condition.
Airplanes can fly much longer than many people think; many airlines are still flying older airplanes, especially cargo carriers. Many 727s, or even DC-8s & DC-9s are still in service (Delta is still flying B737-222, which was manufactured in late 60s). With proper maintenance, well-designed airplanes can fly well over 30-40 years (or longer).
Thanks again,
JPN
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