Hello to all,

It's been a while and I have noticed a different look to things and like what I see. Things were going well but I have since found new symptoms and need a little insight.


CODES

A1 - 313 - Faulty signal from PNP. This is the switch in the shifter, right? I recall some posts in the past that have addressed this and will look them up for part #s and locations.

A2 - 512 - Longterm fuel trim too rich. Could this have been caused by all the attempts to start the car when it was frozen? I do recall on a couple of occasions that I got a faint to medium wiff of fuel.

A3 - 141 - Pedal signal faulty - shorted to ground.
142 - Stop lamp switch faulty.

Would the above indicate the black switch at the top of the brake pedal? I have heard of issues with this also and will look up other posts for part #s and locations.

442 - Rear wheel return valve open or shorted. What is this and where is this?

Im still looking for a diagram of the brake system to see if I can locate this item, junction or switch or what ever it is.

ABS light is still on and I have checked and cleared the codes several times

The Lamda (looks like an upside down V) came on just over a month ago after about a week of minus 40 degrees C weather that had The Anvil not starting at all, even with a boost. The car would turn and turn and turn but would not catch. And this went on for five days and only when it warmed up to minus 10 did the car finally start. Compared to -40 - Break out the tanning butter ;-))

Right after I got the car running I replaced the battery and changed the oil out for Royal Purple 5W30 and The Anvil seems to run alright but since then when its cold out Ill turn the key and all I hear is the starter buzzing. Sometimes the buzzing will lead to what sounds like the starter trying to engage (Ill hear a buzzzzzzzzchunk noise). Sometimes a couple of tries, sometimes more, but the car seems to start.

Now this is only when its slightly cold to really cold. Today, +5, the car started on the first try and of course Im shaking and scratching my head trying to figure this out. What the heck is causing this?

I also noticed that when I was checking the codes today that the oil dip stick (JIMMY) wasnt in all the way and was wondering if this might cause some sort of problem? Crank case preasure or some other thing?

Thank you in advance and Im glad to be back in good company.

 

A1 - 313 - Faulty signal from PNP.
The one on the shifter is micro switch. PNP is mounted on the tranny; see attached. http://volvospeed.com/Repair/pnpswitch.php

A2 - 512 - Longterm fuel trim too rich.
5-1-2 (HO2S Integrator At Maximum Lean Running Limit)
Code 2-3-1 or 5-1-2 means that engine is running rich. This may be caused by high fuel pressure, leaking injector(s), faulty MAF signal or faulty HO2S sensor (quote from the manual).

A3 - 141 - Pedal signal faulty - shorted to ground.
142 - Stop lamp switch faulty.
DTC 1-4-1: FAULTY PEDAL SENSOR, SHORT TO GROUND OR VOLTAGE
1) Connect test box to control module (looks like a Volvo tester). See Fig. 3. Check
pedal sensor circuit by connecting jumper wires between test box
terminals No. 1, 2, 21, 34, and 36. Connect an ohmmeter between test
box terminals No. 16 and 41. Ohmmeter should indicate about 249 ohms.
2) Turn ignition on. Depress brake pedal as far as possible
and hold in place. Turn ignition off. Slowly release brake pedal while
at same time taking readings from ohmmeter. It should be possible to
observe 7 distinct resistance readings. See BRAKE PEDAL RESISTANCE
READINGS table.

BRAKE PEDAL RESISTANCE READINGS TABLE
7 (Pedal Fully Depressed) ....................Infinite
6 .................................................. . 1032
5 .................................................. .. 817
4 (Pedal Midway) ................................690
3 .................................................. .. 563
2 .................................................. .. 436
1 (Pedal Fully Released) .......................249
3) If one resistance reading is incorrect, check wiring for
short circuits. If wiring is okay, replace pedal sensor. Compare color
of pedal sensor spacer sleeve with power brake booster color code. If
all resistance readings are correct, replace control module.

DTC 1-4-2: FAULTY BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH, OPEN OR SHORT CIRCUIT
1) Check if brakelight works. If brakelight does not work,
check bulb and wiring as necessary. If brakelight works, connect test
box to control unit. See Fig. 3. Connect voltmeter between test box
terminals No. 32 and 1. Depress brake pedal. If voltmeter indicates
battery voltage, erase DTC and test drive vehicle. See
TEST DRIVING VEHICLE under DIAGNOSIS & TESTING. If DTC occurs again,
replace control module. If voltmeter does not indicate battery
voltage, go to next step and check if circuit is open or shorted.
2) Remove 2 wires (Red and Yellow wires) from brakelight
switch. Connect voltmeter between Red wire and ground. If battery
voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not
present, check wiring or fuse for an open circuit.
3) Connect a jumper wire between Red and Yellow wires. If
brakelight lights, ensure brakelight switch is adjusted correctly. If
switch is adjusted correctly, replace switch. If brakelight does not
light, ensure wiring to brakelight bulbs is okay (quote from the manual).

A gentleman named arzy has successfully repaired the faulty sensor with the help of Orzybrick.com. I would contact arzy or find his post. I cannot find it with the new forum format.

442 - Rear wheel return valve open or shorted.
Seems like the valve is located within the hydraulic modulator next to the ABS module. If there is an internal fault, the modulator may need replacement.

ABS light is still on and I have checked and cleared the codes several times
You need to fix certain parts such as the pedal position sensor. The 1993-1995 models seem to be affected with faulty switches/sensors rather than the ABS module (ECU).

I hope this is of some ref.


JPN

 

Thanks JPN,

It's been a while and I didn't expect to receive this much info and I appreciate it.

For the A1-313 - Thanks, I just learned something new and can, by the looks of things, replace the parts myself.

For the A2-512 - This, I'm thinking, may have been due to the repeated attempts to start the car over the period of five days of -40 degree weather. When the car finally started I could smell fuel and it ran rough for a bit but did settle down after a few minutes has run fairly smooth ever since.

Where does someone get the "test box" that you mention? I have heard(read) about it but was never able to find one. Considering the wack'o'cash in The Anvil - will no longer list parts replaced because I've replaced everything that can make you cry when you hear what's wrong - any test equipment that I can find for my year Volvo I'm going to snap up because this is going to be one of those million kilometer cars.:-)

I've found the PNP and the Pedal Sensor online and the price is reasonable so I'll get, replace and see what's next.

Thank you for your help.

Volvo For Life ( It'll take that long to get my cash out of it) ;-))

Later.

 

Glad to be of some assistance.

Yes, the code for rich mixture may have been triggered by many attempts to start the engine in cold climate. If the O2 sensor is still of original, it may pay off to have it replaced with a new Direct-fit OEM Bosch sensor. Bosch O2 sensors seem bit fragile as compared to Denso. However, the OBD-I does not report a code for faulty O2 sensor, you could probably leave it for now, as the O2 sensors are expensive.

I am not sure as to where you can get the breakout (test) box other than the dealer. I would assume Tech or other members would know.

For your future ref for the factory manual, go to the link but Mathew's Volvo Site seems to have packed it in one file, unlike the individual set^up at the site in the UK. http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/volvo_wo...techdocs.shtml

Good night,


JPN

 

Thanks JPN for the link.

I found that one a while back and it has come in handy as I'm still learning something new about The Anvil everyday.

Something new to chew on.

After clearing the codes all of the lights, Lambda-ABS-TRAKS, lights went off and I actually had ABS AND TRAKS for a little bit, hit a patch of ice while stopping and the ABS worked - NICE :-) - and then as soon as I let off of the brake the ABS and TRAKS lights came on and no more ABS - BUMMER :-(

It has me cofused because this now seems to be the norm when I start the car. Both lights are off when I start the car, I can drive for a bit and sometimes one stop, sometimes over a dozen, the system works and then goes out and the lights come on.

I'm not giving up just yet and I'll send out a couple of feelers to dealers about the breakout (test) box - that should be good for a laugh price wise ;-)

Back in a bit.


B.T.W. How does one go about making bold type?


Later and thank you.

 

For the ABS issue, have you ever had the ABS module rebuilt? If not, it sounds like this may be something to think about.

 

I had the same problem with the ABS/TRAC light, same codes. Mine had a broken solder joint in the pedal sensor. Easy fix, pedal sensor is located on the brake booster held in with a circlip. Cut the silastic around the edge, held securely in a vice and poped it open. Soldered the pc board back in the cap. Put togther added silastic popped back in booster and no more lights!!! Yippeeee

see :- https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850-16/obd1-codes-26676/

 

Model years from 1993 to 1995 seem to be affected by the pedal position sensor or the brake light switch. 1996-1997 seem to be the ABS/TRAC module.

Try following arzy's link.

As to bolding your text, my writing pane has B-I-U functions as well as other functions including spell check. I may have downloaded some features but am not sure.


JPN

 

Quick Brick, in the "quick reply" section, you will see "B" which is for bold, above the text area. There is also "I" which is for italics and "U" Which is for underline. You can also change color with the "A" button.

 

Thanks for the replys and I appreciate all of you taking the time.

I haven't been by for a bit, things have been fairly good, but I've come across a problem that left me stuck, literally, on the painted triangle between highways 416 and 417 heading into Kanata.

I was in the stop and go traffic that goes with every Friday evening highway at rush hour and it felt like the car, while creeping along, just chugged out. I had enough momentum to get the car in between the merge lane and the lane I was in. I sat there for about 4 or 5 minutes just waiting for the car to get hit and thinking that I wasn't getting out to pop the hood. A few turns of the key initially produced nothing but after the 4 or 5 minutes the car started right up and I was fine for the next sixty or so kilometers.

Now the The Anvil will only run in limp (flashing up arrow) mode every time I start the car for the first time each day but after that it will start and run fine all day long.

The stalling issue I have NO frigin' idea about. I found a ground strap that goes from the back of the engine to the fire wall broken but I doubt this is the cause of my trouble.

I have gotten codes from A1 - 313 Faulty signal from PNP switch and A3 - 141 and 142 which I believe are related to the brake switch which can wait. Getting the car started and not stalling in traffic are a little more important.

Could it be possible, in some backward chaos theory way, that the faulty PNP switch is in some way causing this problem? I don't know, maybe it's moving around a little bit or something and it is causing the car to think it's in neutral or some other thing that will shut the car down? Grasping at straws here. LOL

I need a little help here because the stalling doesn't produce any codes and this is becoming almost a daily thing. The fact that the car did this three times in one day (last Friday) is making me wonder?!?!?!?

If you have an idea feel free to shoot them my way.


Thanks all.

 

my guess is the PNP

 

Well, I'm not having a good time anymore.

The Anvil has developed two issues that I cannot figure out and it's gotten to the point that I'll have to grow hair just so I can pull it out.

The Anvil on initial start up will only run in limp mode (flashing arrow and very slow take off with high revs) and I believe this to be because of the PNP switch. I'll drive for a bit and when I start the car a second time the arrow will still flash but the car shifts normally. Two or three more stops and starts and the arrow goes out, the car runs fine and shifts normally. PNP switch right?

My second issue is one of stalling. The Anvil will run fine and for reasons that I cannot figure out will just stall out. It feels as though it's loosing fuel preasure or something. I'll step on the gas pedal and this will not help. It's stalled out in stop and go traffic, when I was on the highway and when I've been sitting at idle in a lot.

I have no idea as to what might cause this but need to figure this out as I'm now concerned about long trips and whether or not this will lead to the car not starting after one of its fits.

Any ideas from the great minds out there will be put to the test as I get them.

Thanks guy's.

 

I would check the fuel pump relay for the stalling sounds like a classic bad relay.

For the arrow I would guess PNP switch.

 

Thanks Tech.

Never thought of the relay. For some reason I keep thinking that they rarely fail and that that couldn't possibly be the problem I'm having. Shows what I know.

I fell the same about the arrow.

I just got called back to work so I figure it's going to be about a month before I'm cash wise back on track.

Layoffs sucks but it's good to be employed again.

Is there a way to test the relay? Probably not but I had to ask.

Thanks again and now I'll price a relay.

Later.

 

I would pull the relay and pop the cover off and check the solder joints.
If one is cracked you can resolder it and be back on track.

 

What is it about the PNP switch that fails?

I found this from the other side of the pond and I'm wondering if it can be that simple of a repair? Tech, I'd like yours and others opinion on this.

This is the link:
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=68553

Back to you Oh Knowledgable Ones.

 

That might work I have not tried it myself so let us know if you try it and how it works when done.

 

Worst case,
i would just do the labour of removing and cleaning the contacts in PNP switch and putting it back together. That might not give you 100% life but will still give you a take off for now.

 

that post from the uk all makes sense. i have had the issue before and 2 times i have gotten away with cleaning it up real good and re-installing, 1 time i just fully replaced it, and this past time i just ran the shifter from park to low gear about 50-100 times really quick to rub the contacts around and its been fine sense HAHA.

 

Thanks again folks for the replies.

Well, we've got rain in the forcast for the next couple of days so I'll have to wait a couple before I get under the hood(no garage or car park) and pull the switch.

But on a good note I was at the shop this morning to get the tranmission axle seals replaced this morning and this should stop the pink puddle from forming under The Anvil.

For the shifter, I may try the back and forth method before I head to work this evening if, when I start the car, I see the arrow flashing.

I'll be back with the results soon.

Later all.