Well I thought my fill and flush helped but maybe not!
Once I drove the car for about 20 miles today and got it good and hot- the trans started acting up. I can best describe it as a Flare up between shifts esp 1-2 and 2-3. It revs up like there is no load on it but if you feed it gas slow it is driveable.
Throws a code 232 every time. That is for missing speedo signal. Its not missing the signal as far as I can tell.
It drives fine when its cold.
If you put it in winter mode, start out in L and shift it up to D manually when you get up to speed it doesnt do it.
Doesnt Slip starting out in winter mode either!
Any ideas???

 

Did you use Dexron-III/Mercon? Tranny fluids are not interchangeable. I would also double check on the fluid level; see my 2nd reply at:

https://volvoforums.com/m_48928/tm.htm

Is the arrowin the cluster flashing?


JPN

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+1

 

Fluid is correct and level is good.
Arrow is flashing- 2-3-2 Speed sensor, but the speedo works fine.
Clear it and it comes back.
Its strange- it makes the upshift then a second later the motor runs away from the trans. But if you take your foot out of it then slowly feed it gas it seems to catch.

 

Ok so last nite I did the ratchet PNP clean and cleared the codes.
I drove it a lot today- no problems!
But I still dont get why it throws a speed sensor code!
I ordered a new sensor from FCP groton.
Maybe its just like my old Dodge- as long as I keep a spare ballast resistor in the glove box it will never break and the c ar will always be fine!
On a seperate note- does anyone have a pinout or a ground diagram?
The grounds that are on the strip by the battery with spade connectors need desperatly to be cleaned. Green monster evrywhere! Just curious if any of these are computer grounds. Could certainly make for some strange issues for sure!

 

A solution of water & baking soda would clean it well.

>But I still dont get why it throws a speed sensor code!
That is the beauty of electronics. Even on modern airplanes there are so many fault messages triggered by God knows what, and 90% of the time the message would disappear by resetting the circuit breaker, re-seating the black box or simply rebooting the entire airplane.

>Maybe its just like my old Dodge- as long as I keep a spare ballast resistor in the glove box it >will never break and the car will always be fine!
Agreed.

I would buy a can of electrical contact cleaner spray and one of these days would try to clean as many sensor/ECU connections as well. That is of course after removing the negative battery cable and waiting for 15 minutes for the residual power to dissipate.


JPN

 

A good idea is to clean all electrical connections you can find with contact cleaner AND invest in some dielectric lubricant for ALL of your connections.

You may be surprised at what that can do for you in the long run.

I do that as soon as I buy a used car.

As much as I loathe GM, they make good engine sealant and D-lube