Folks,

Just finished re-installing the cylinder head on the 95 850 turbo. Tried to start it today and well, lets just say here is the problem(s) It will not start unless you hold the accelerator down a bit. If you let off the accelerator it will not stay running, but sputters and dies. It will rev fine. but feels a little rough and if you hold the accelerator to keep it running at a steady RPM, it backfires through the intake.

I checked the timing and it is fine, the timing belt is tight, and I checked and double checked the spark plug wires and they are in the right order. It does not smoke or smell like unburnt fuel but the exhaust sounds like a car with a fart can muffler on it. Could a bad intake manifold gasket cause this, or possibly one of the intake bolts not tight enough. Or the exhaust manifold? I do know it does not have a gasket at the flange where the exhaust manifold bolts up to the exhaust pipe, but it did not have one before I removed and replaced the head.

Lastly, I cleaned the PCV system while I was in there, but I had a LOT of trouble putting the PTC back on the hole by the turbo, if this came loose could it cause my issue?

I really need some help here folks. If not, one of the neighbor kids is willing to give me $500 for it as it is and I am getting tempted to take it.

Glenn

 

The PTC is between the mass air flow meter and the engine, so yes, that hole needs to be closed up. If it falls out, the MAF measurement will be incorrect.

 

Remove the air filter housing if you need to but take the intake tube all the way out and check to see if the PTC is seated. It should have a gasket or grommet and should have a lip above the hole and below the hole. You might have pushed the grommet out of position and created a good sized vacuum leak. If it looks ok but the PTC is loose in the grommet or the grommet is loose to the intake tube some have used silicone sealant (RTV) to bridge the gap and make a leak proof seal. Just remember to use what you need and try not to go crazy with the stuff as you are the likely person who might have to take it out again in the future

If there is a vacuum leak there it can cause the problems with idle and backfire you are describing.

 

I'll check it today and see what I find. Thanks folks!

 

OK, fixed the PTC (it was loose at the grommet) No change. Tried un-plugging the MAF, no change. No codes come up either. You have to give it throttle to get it to start and keep running and it backfires through the intake every few seconds. Plus the exhaust sounds like a hopped up chainsaw or a Japanese ricer car with a fart can muffler I doubt it is timing as the cam and crank marks line up like they are supposed to and it revs up good. Just wont stay running with out your foot on the accelerator, and runs like it is missing on a couple cylinders. If someone has a picture of the plug wires on the cap I will check that just to be sure.

I'm wondering if a bad intake manifold gasket or exhaust manifold gasket could cause this as it almost acts like a mixture issue. Also, I KNOW there is no gasket at the flange joint between the outlet of the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe going under the car. It did not have one when I took it apart. Does it need one, and if so a good part number would help. I suppose a compression test again would not hurt either.

Help guys.

I'm getting stumped

 

Double check your spark plug order. Also, do you have any codes? Do a compression test as well.

 

An intake manifold leak can cause problems but I don't think an exhaust manifold leak will.

 

Well, today as I pulled it apart I found that the intake manifold gasket had torn in one spot as was de-laminating (coming apart in layers), plus the whole gasket reeked of raw gasoline. Not sure if this was the cause of my problems, but it is definitely a contributing factor! RSPI, THANK YOU for the picture of the plug wire sequence on the cap. I will double check them when I re-assemble it. Lastly, no codes and I will do a compression check once it is back together.

 

Cool, hope it works out. If you need a gasket, I have a couple but it will take a few days to mail it to you. LOL

 

My bet would be on plug order, the only time I've had cars backfire through the intake is when I had the dizzy installed 180 degrees out of time. Is it even possible for a vacuum leak to cause the ecu to advance or retard ignition so far as to fire the plugs during the intake stroke?

 

YAAAAHOOOOO!!!! It is fixed (well sort of)! I replaced the intake gasket, put it all together and fired it up. Purred like a kitten, good oil pressure and normal temps. Revs like an SOB too. Now for the one bad part. It is leaking oil out of the place where the turbo drain line goes back into the pan. I'm assuming a bad seal, but it is a pretty good leak just the same. So, I have never had to replace this seal before, but it looks pretty straight forward, pull the two hex bolts out of the turbo, and lift the drain tube out.

Any tips on doing this before I order the parts?

Glenn

 

Not from me. I hope I don't have to do mine any time soon. I just need to get the rest of my coolant lines replaced.

Glad it's running good.

 

I haven't done it on the car but I do know they make a special tool for replacing the gasket at the turbo because those hex bolts are supposed to be very difficult to get to when it's in the vehicle.

No Rspi video ?? Waz up wit dat


This is like the tool. I've seen it but couldn't find it on IPD or FCP and I thought one of them sold it.

 

I managed to get mine loose. Sure enough the seal at the bottom of the tube where it goes in to the pan is split. Seals are on order. I saw the tool on the IPD website, for the bargain price of $45!!

 

As long as we couldn't help you, you can help us.

What did you use to get it loose and was there anything you'd do differently ??
If you had to do it again would that $45 tool be worth it ??

 

I have a hex head socket and a universal joint extension that I use. I got a complete set of sockets and a set of u-joint extensions (1/4", 3/8", and 1/2") from Sears, with a lifetime guarantee, for less than the $45 (plus shipping, and waiting) from IPD.

I really wonder sometimes who buys some of their stuff.

 

KissaFrog,

I did exactly what Mudpie did, I used a hex socket and universal joint with a decent extension. Pretty much came right off. The special tool may be useful if you were going to do the job several times in the course of a year, but there is no way I could justify $45 plus shipping for the tool.

The biggest thing for me when doing the job is to get the front of the car high enough off the ground so I have room to work under it.

Glenn

 

I just stuck a regular allen key in there, 5mm, and cranked them out. Then again, when I work on my car, I have it a foot off the ground. Helps a lot to have room under the car. Bust them loose with holding long end and spin them out with the short one. Works wonders and takes all of a minute to get the whole pipe out. No need for any fancy stuff on the regular FWD models.