Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

ball joint

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Old May 27, 2009 | 11:01 AM
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i just got 1997 volvo 850 back from inspection and needs front passenger lower ball joint. So, does that mean I have to change whole control arm or is there a way to change just the ball joint?
 
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Old May 27, 2009 | 11:04 AM
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nope, ball joint looks like this:



if you would like i can do a write up for you on how to change it. its maybe a 30 min job.
 
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Old May 27, 2009 | 11:07 AM
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I was hoping it was that one but from ipdusa it says the 1994.5+ needs the control arm.

http://ipdusa.com/product.asp?strPar...hStartRecord=1

I will have to take the wheel off to check but was wondering if others had input.
 
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Old May 27, 2009 | 11:25 AM
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I just did my 97 and my ball joint did not look anything like that. I did the control arms on both sides. I did both sides in about three hours. Got the control arms for $100 each plus a total of $10 shipping from Darrell Waltrip Volvo. It was cheaper than fcpgroton which surprised me. Tell them you found them on volvospeed.com and ask for Jamie or Dan.
 
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Old May 27, 2009 | 11:52 AM
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i checked on autozones website and thats what it popped up with. totaly possible that their site is wrong though.

best way to know it to just poke your head under and look for those three nuts on the bottom of the control arm on the tire side. (shouldnt need to take the wheel off to do so)
 
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Old May 27, 2009 | 12:20 PM
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That was my plan but it is pouring out. I will hopefully be able to look soon since it seems to be slowing some.


EDIT: Just looked and will need control arm like JimKW said. Autozone wants 100 for that part so I may end up going there.

JimKW, where you refering to the volvo one being more expensive? I saw they have the generic one on FCP Groton for 50.

850Tony, Autozone has that but I found out that the rears use that style, for the front you have to search for control arm and it shows up.

Thanks for the help.

Mike
 

Last edited by meb7070; May 27, 2009 at 12:28 PM.
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Old May 27, 2009 | 01:03 PM
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You want to put OEM on. My son has the cheaper ones from fcpgroton and wishes he would have gotten the OEM's. Call Waltrip Volvo 1-800-689-0021 and see how soon you can have them.
 
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Old May 27, 2009 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by meb7070

850Tony, Autozone has that but I found out that the rears use that style, for the front you have to search for control arm and it shows up.

thanks for the knowledge base
 
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Old May 29, 2009 | 05:43 PM
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JimKW thanks for your insite--- you said your son had the non-oem Lower control arm. I don't want to put alot of money in this car, will only have about a year or so- I have seen a full replacement kit for front suspension on ebay-good price. Is there a reason your son did'nt like the non-oem lower control arm compared to yours? is it that different? Anyone else feel free to post on front suspensions parts as well---I am new to this site as well as Volvo 850 as well- Thanks in advance
 
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Old May 29, 2009 | 09:08 PM
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the non OEM ones just wear faster.
 
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Old May 30, 2009 | 01:02 AM
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I put two Uro Parts control arms in, non oem. They seem fine along with the sway bar link ends and half the price of oem. Time will tell if I made a wise choice
 
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Old May 30, 2009 | 09:40 AM
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I would have liked to get the better one but funding is currently low so i got the cheaper one. I will reply back after the install. It was ordered through a local parts store.

I was looking for torque specs for the bolts but did not see any. JimKW do you know what you torques them down to when you changed them?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old May 30, 2009 | 12:26 PM
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for the ball joint/hub bolt it is 50Nm (~37ft lbs.) and for the subframe/control arms side 65Nm (~48ft lbs) plus an extra 120º.
 
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Old May 30, 2009 | 02:56 PM
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Good luck on being accurate on the extra 120º! I have the angel tool and still could not get it in there to do that. I went with the 48 ft lbs and made it a little more than a quarter turn tighter.
 
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Old May 30, 2009 | 04:50 PM
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thats fine, not like its on a rad bearing in the motor or anything...
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 11:53 AM
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Make sure you tighten the control arm bolts with the weight of the car on the control arm.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 08:44 PM
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went on no problems in ~45 min. jacked up arm to be about level with frame before torquing (sp?) down to above specs (i eyed what 1/3 of a turn (120*) would be).

Will report back if I have any side affects of having cheaper arm.

If anyone has any other questions I will be happy to answer.
 
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