brake line
#1
brake line
Volvo 1993 850
The brake line going into the rear right caliper has a nut on it that I started to strip. I think it's a brass nut. I'm wondering if I need to replace the whole line or can I replace the nut only? I don't know if the nut comes off of the line. Also, I would really be grateful for any tips on how to get those damned axle nut grooves out so I can get at the nut. You know, the metal surrounding the axle nut is hammered into a groove in the nut to lock it. I need some tips on how to get under the metal, what kind of tool works best for that, to pry the metal up out of the groove.
THanks
jeff[8D]
The brake line going into the rear right caliper has a nut on it that I started to strip. I think it's a brass nut. I'm wondering if I need to replace the whole line or can I replace the nut only? I don't know if the nut comes off of the line. Also, I would really be grateful for any tips on how to get those damned axle nut grooves out so I can get at the nut. You know, the metal surrounding the axle nut is hammered into a groove in the nut to lock it. I need some tips on how to get under the metal, what kind of tool works best for that, to pry the metal up out of the groove.
THanks
jeff[8D]
#2
#4
RE: brake line
Hello Mr. jefhon,
I've had a similar experience. I tried to replace the flex brake hoses and gave up, as the nuts for all four stripped, even with flare-nut wrench. Dealer techs told me to use WD-40, but if the fastener is rusted tight, I wonder how liquid can find its way through such connections.
As for the nut, Mr. Tech has suggested a good way, which I didn't know. I used a small diameter pin punch and hammered it out. I also used the edge of a prybar. When I put the new nut, I made sure not to bend it too deep, so next time I won't have to struggle again. Also, since the flange is thin, you might be able to cut it with something.
Good luck,
JPN
I've had a similar experience. I tried to replace the flex brake hoses and gave up, as the nuts for all four stripped, even with flare-nut wrench. Dealer techs told me to use WD-40, but if the fastener is rusted tight, I wonder how liquid can find its way through such connections.
As for the nut, Mr. Tech has suggested a good way, which I didn't know. I used a small diameter pin punch and hammered it out. I also used the edge of a prybar. When I put the new nut, I made sure not to bend it too deep, so next time I won't have to struggle again. Also, since the flange is thin, you might be able to cut it with something.
Good luck,
JPN
#5
#6
RE: brake line
If you are going to replace the line, you are obviously going to have to bleed the brakes. Since you are going to be in there anyway, I would look at replacing any other brake lines and hoses that may need it. That way you will only have to bleed the brakes once.
Just my .02
Glenn
Just my .02
Glenn
#8
RE: brake line
Hello Jeff,
If you need to replace the metal lines, the only place I can think of to acquirepre-formed unitsis the dealer, but if you have or willing to buy the necessary tools you can do it yourself. You'll have to bend the lines, put a new nut and flare the tube ends.
Costwise, I am not sure how much those metal lines would be, but the OEM flexible hoses are reasonable, about $9 each. If you want to go fancy, you can spend $20 each for a stainless-steel braided ones.
Lastly, make sure to get DOT-4 fluid, at least 2 litters. If you have a pressure bleeder, such as Motive Products' European Bleeder, you won't need an assistant for the bleeding procedure.
Good luck,
JPN
If you need to replace the metal lines, the only place I can think of to acquirepre-formed unitsis the dealer, but if you have or willing to buy the necessary tools you can do it yourself. You'll have to bend the lines, put a new nut and flare the tube ends.
Costwise, I am not sure how much those metal lines would be, but the OEM flexible hoses are reasonable, about $9 each. If you want to go fancy, you can spend $20 each for a stainless-steel braided ones.
Lastly, make sure to get DOT-4 fluid, at least 2 litters. If you have a pressure bleeder, such as Motive Products' European Bleeder, you won't need an assistant for the bleeding procedure.
Good luck,
JPN
#9
RE: brake line
Metal lines are actually cheap and can be bought in various lengths at Autozone's and Advance Auto Parts across the country, and they already come flared with the nut on either end. There is a tool for bending the lines that might run about $10 (it looks like a handle with a circular piece of metal on the end with a diameter of about 3". You manually bend the lines around this circle to give you no crimps in the line).
I put in a new hard line on a Civic I used to race and it was a lot easier than I thought it would be. I bought two lines of the length I needed (6-8" for about $4 each) just so I could practice on the first and do the second correctly.
You want to buy lines that are pretty close to the overall length you need. I would say within an inch or so. The direction the line is bent makes no difference, you just want to make sure it won't come in contact with any moving parts and mounts up easily with no stress at the mount points (which will could cause a leak).
Good luck with everything. I think you will be surprised how simple it really is. - AB
I put in a new hard line on a Civic I used to race and it was a lot easier than I thought it would be. I bought two lines of the length I needed (6-8" for about $4 each) just so I could practice on the first and do the second correctly.
You want to buy lines that are pretty close to the overall length you need. I would say within an inch or so. The direction the line is bent makes no difference, you just want to make sure it won't come in contact with any moving parts and mounts up easily with no stress at the mount points (which will could cause a leak).
Good luck with everything. I think you will be surprised how simple it really is. - AB
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