Well, the luck of the Irish wasn't with me yesterday... Took the submarine out and was making a long LH on a traffic circle up here. All of a sudden, the car doesn't want to turn anymore and the wheel starts skidding as I cross over 3 lanes of traffic. [sm=headbang.gif] Thankfully i was able to break and get mild control of the car. Narrowly avoided side swiping a dude in the lane next to me. My buddy was cracking up thinking it was just understeer and i was taking the turn too fast... I told him, something just didn't feel right...it definatly wasn't understeer like i've felt before... Like a loss of steering on the FR passenger wheel.

So we delayed out arrival to the pub for some st paddys day celebrations to get the car back home as i didn't want to risk wrecking the car. Was able to get the car back home, but about 1/2 mile from my house i have to make a LH uturn. i had to get on the gas pretty quickly as i turned (BAD IDEA) and i heard a POP, and the screeching tire, and was again heading straight towards a curb. I didn't hit it, but came too close for comfort...so i was able to hobble it back the rest of the way, and i was getting frequent pops as i was going straight... i was thinking it was a tie rod or something to do w/ steering... But i'd wasted enough time w/ the car that night and needed to get some Guiness and Jameson in me so took the other car out for the night. [sm=icon_cheers.gif]

So i just checked it out and it looks like the Axle joint (inner joint) is F'ed. its free to move back and forth. The boot around it it all twisted up and the wheel had a ton of play in it (the wheel is still fully bolted in the below pic).







Then i noticed that the upper bolt holding the strut in wasn't there....then i started to kick myself in the ***. When i replaced the spring seats last weekend, i somehow managed to screw up the threads on the upper bolt. So i went to our tool shop at work and got what i thought would be a suitable replacement. original one was a 12mm bolt and i replaced it w/ a 1/2, everything fit when i put it back together...i just wastn' sure of the grade of bolt that was used. So i'm thinking this Bolt snapped off at somepoint and when it went, allowed the wheel hub assembly (i think that's what it's called) to pivot around the only bolt still holding the strut on. Then around the turn i think it pulled the axle out somehow.




So i imagine the car is pretty much undriveable at this point. I really don't have a clue what the connection at the end of the axle is like or what needs to be done to fix it. Does the entire axle need to be replaced? is there anything on the inside of the boot that i should be worried about being broken too?

How difficult of a job would it be to fix? I'm willing to give it a shot, but if it's something that's really easy to mess up if not i may take it to a shop to have done since i definitely don't wanna be on the track barreling towards a turn at 80mph and have this happen again.... Wouldn't be a pretty site

 

Inside the inside of the Axle is called a Tripod joint. There is 3 wheels inside there with roller bearings in each wheel. If the boot isn't torn you can try to install the axle into the inner cup on the trans. Then install a new bolt and see if you get noise when driving.

If you get noise rebuilt axles are pretty cheap. and easy to install.

 

I'm thinking i may as well just replace the whole axle since my outer boots at least were starting to tear and leak a bit. I know the passenger side has an 'intermediate axle'...which is where it looks like it was separated. Would i also need to replace that intermediate shaft and the axle seal on the differential?

Because the axle was spinning as it was pulled out, is there a chance i damaged something else at the axle joint interface? I'm imagining some ground or broken gear teeth...but haven't seen inside yet so i'm not sure how easy it would be to do that. What should i watch out for to determine if there is more extensive damage than just the axle?

Thanks!

 

Both Peices come as one Axle. From the Trans to the hub comes as one.
If comes with the Bearing pressed on it. You will have to remove the 2 12mm nuts and then slide the while thing out.

I think you will be fine I DOUBT anything else is hurt.

 

Well, looks like i've got myself a good weekend project...if the parts arrive in time that is. I ordered the new axle, axle seal, and went ahead and got a new wheel bearing. Don't know if i need the bearing replaced or not, but i figured while i'm at it, might as well replace it so i know it's new and will be in good condition. What are some of the symptoms of a wheel bearing that is on it's way out?

I'm going to wait to do the Driver side for a while.

Are there any tips or tricks you can tell me about doing a job such as this? From what i've read ppl say if you can do the suspension, changing the axle and wheel bearing should be a piece of cake.

Thanks again!

 

The wheel bearing is cake it is only held in with 4 screws.

BUT You will need an inverted Torxes socket. I forget exactly which size it is though. The screw are pretty tight. You should be able to buy a cheap set at Discount or Auto Zone. But you will nee to use a 1/2 braker bar. Make sure you have the 1/2 to 3/8 adaptor as well.

If you have Air tools it can be done in about 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

 

The parts came in today... so i'm off to sears to pick up some new tools.

One question though...there were 2 big nuts that came in the order. They were both in the box w/ the wheel bearing, but were in separate bags inside. the brass colored one looks like what's on there currently on the outside of the wheel bearing, but i have no idea where the othe one is. That one nut didn't seem to thread onto anything and was a larger socket size. Am i overlookin somethere here or is this just an extra part for other models (like if the axle isn't the same size on another model)?



Tomorrow should be interesting...hope i don't break too much

 

OK, i lied....2 questions

Haynes manual says to put some metal adhesive on the splines of the axle. Should i do this on both sides of the acle or only on the outter side?

Is there any good or bad type of metal adhesive to get? Never bought the stuff before so am a total noob to is.

 

2 Answers: 1. There is 2 different sizes for the end of the Axle. The threads are what is different. The nuts should be the same socket size(36MM) But the threads different.

2. I would not get the Metal glue and install. You will be sorry the next time you have to take it apart.

TIP. After pulling the wheel off to get started. First remove the Axle nut. Then screw it on a little. Get a small ballpean hammer and turn the nut till the ball sits in the nut and still touches the axle. Then using another hammer hit the smaller hammer to loosen/push the axle in. Then remove the rest to get it out.

Did the new Hub bearing come with the Inverted torxes screws?

 

Yep, the new hub bearing came w/ the inverted torx screws...had to go to 3 different places to find the socket for them.

After i get the axle out of the hub bearing, should it just easily pull out of the differential?

thanks for the tips!

 

The right side slides out easy. If you are going to pull the Left side it is locked with a ring. Usually a prybar between the Axle and the trans. will pop it out.

 

well, got the job done in a little under 3 hours...i was pretty suprised how easy it was. I broke my first ratchet ever trying to get the axle nut off, but then heated the hell out of it w/ map gas and used a impact gun...came right off. The only thing i really wasn't prepared for was getting a face full of Trans fluid. it just never dawned on me that it would come pouring out when the axle was removed

i ended up installing a new axle seal but it was very hard to get it into place. I used a rubber hammer to tap it in before putting back in the new axle. Is that an OK way to do it?

I'm guessing i lost a good 3-4 quarts of fluid so i'm sure i'll need to fill it back up before driving it again. Should i consider having the fluid flushed when i do that? There's an oil change place about a 1/4 mile from my house that will do that job... think it would be ok to drive it there then have it flushed, or should i put some in myself before driving it.

Also, where is the fill pipe for the Trans fluid?

Thanks

 

Some of them will leak fluid and others won't.
Installing the seal that way is fine.
You fill the Trans. by removing the Dipstick for the trans. and installing a funnel and then just fill.
I would start the car for a minute and try seeing if any fluid shows up on the dipstick.

How did the fluid look?
Was it red or a dark brown?

If it still looked red Top off and leave it for now.

If it is brown I would top off and then have it flushed ot drained and refilled.