I just sold my car - it was working fine. It died on a young woman two days later. She said she was stopped on the side of the road after driving for about 15 mins. No known problems yet. Shortly after starting to accelerate, she heard a weird noise and the car died. She lost power and coasted to a stop. They car would not turn over. I looked at the car the next day. The car wouldn't turn over. I tried jumping it. No joy. Looking at the battery, it was 10.2 volts. Bad cell, bad battery probably. I put my battery from the BMW in it. The first time trying to start, it took about 5 secs to kick over. While doing so, it initially made a weird sound with the revolutions a couple of times. The starter got the car up to 700 rpms, but won't start. Well, it started once out of about 15 tries. It got to 700 rpm for about 10-15 secs then died. I couldn't get it to rev higher. Once, after stopping the starter, it made a weird shriek, different from the other sound. Oh, I live in Italy and don't speak Italian.
I have (she has) a 1994 850, 2.4 liter gasoline. Battery, starter, fuel pressure seem good.
Could the bad battery have caused something to go bad with electronics? If so, how can I find out where the trouble is? I've heard about a cam shaft sensor, how can I check that?
Any help is appreciated.
kwill1992

 

if the cam sensor is bad the car will crank and crank and crank, but wont start.

first try to pull any possible codes from it.

 

agree. Tony seems right.

 

tony always seems right

 

If I got it to start once for about 10 secs, does that mean it can't be the cam sensor?
Can I use an after market code checker? I heard that you can only get the complete codes from a Volvo dealer. Is that true?
Thanks, kwill

 

being a 94 the codes are pulled from under the hood with blink codes. do some searching on here or google and you will find how to read the codes. and if the cam sensor is bad, its possible that it caught a glimpse of a second life (the 10 second run).

let me/us know if you dont find how to pull the codes, and i can do a kwick write up in here for you.

best of luck

 

I have a manual (although it is in the car and the car isn't at my house), will it show where to pull the blink codes?
Also, I know some codes are pulled just forward of the automatic shift lever as I've seen a mechanic have his code reader/reseter hooked up to that. Is there more than one location to check for codes?

 

I found this to check the code for the A2 socket.
http://au.geocities.com/ozbrick850/c...lvo.html#fenix
Is there a place to find what all the other sockets are for and what the codes stand for?
Thanks!

 

a2 socket will be the main one for you.

 

I went to the car today. On A2, I got 3 3 5 over and over. Even after reset.
In my book, on Fenix 5.2 system, it states that it means "Request for malfuntion indicator lamp from automatic transmission ECU".
At this website, http://au.geocities.com/ozbrick850/c...lvo.html#fenix, under Fenix 5.2 it states, "TCM request for MIL (CHECK ENGINE light)"
I have no check engine light on.
More info: after many attempts for fairly long periods 15, 20, 30, 45 and once up to about 60 secs of cranking, I got the car to start twice. In those two times, I was able to keep the car running only by keeping my foot on the accelerator. I was keeping the car between 2500 and 4000 rpms for 20 secs or so and then took my foot off the gas. As soon as I took my foot off the gas, it stalled. In fact, one of the times that I noticed, it seemed to stall at about 1500 rpm. As the rpm reduced, it clearly stalled early.
Also, may be nothing, may be something, the idle air control valve is hot and hums at a low volume. Hot is quite hot to the touch, but not enough to actually burn me. I can keep my finger on it, but only just barely. Being as it is completely insulated from the engine body by rubber, it isn't conductive heat from the engine and I didn't have the car running long enough to get it hot from convection.
A couple of questions to those wiser/smarter/more hansome than me:
1) What is the real 3-3-5 fault code?
2) What is TCM?
3) What is MIL?
4) Could "Request for malfuntion indicator lamp from automatic transmission ECU" be causing a no start or hard start indication? My best guess is no.
5) Could "TCM request for MIL (CHECK ENGINE light)" be causing a no start or hard start indication? I have no guess.
6) Does a hot idle air control valve seem normal?
7) Can a faulty idle air control valve make a no start or hard start indication? It seems like it could stall in idle, but what about extremely difficult starting? I had my accelerator to the floor in order to get it started the two times.
8) Any ideas on how to test it? My manual only talks about replacement.
9) Can the camshaft position sensor still be a culprit?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Kwill

 

oh ... my brakes definitely squeal...

 

It the bad cell in the battery purely coincidental?
Could something that is wrong with the electronics/ignition of the engine caused the battery lose a cell?
Could the battery losing a cell have caused something on the engine to go bad?

 

could be a fuel pump, check the fuse, ( this is only my opinion) good luck.

 

TCM is Transmission Control Module. That error should not prohibit engine to start.
Do you have fuel pressure? if not check into the fuel pump relay and fuel pump route.
GL!

 

I still support Tony. This symptom may be related to many things, Cam sensor, IACV, MAF, fuel deliver etc.

However, I will rule out fuel system if there is no leakage. If you smell gas then probably a leak there. This can be verified if you can start it while step on gas a little bit.