Hey guys, I have been reading many threads that come up from searches and still cannot figure out how to get this dang light to go off. I have unplugged the cablles from the battery and held them together for 20+ seconds, still on. Unplugged the battery several times for up to an hour and still on. I tried to get the codes using the jumper wire in A2 (1994 850 Turbo Wagon) and the codes I got dont seem to be right as I got 8 of them before the first one repeated itself and only one of them seems to be a real code. I need to smog this vehicle but I dont know what to replace. AFS or maybe O2. I will do another good check for any vaccum leaks but I think it's good there. Here is what came up when I tried to get the codes.

325
121
543
454
453
545
544
542

I am probably screwing this up. Can someone help?

Thanks in advance.

 

Do you have an OBD-II port? Some turbo's did.

 

It does have the port in front of the gearstick. Does that mean it's OBDII? I also have a 97 850 and on the coin holder it says OBDII but on this one it says something different. Not sure but I think the plug is the same.

 

I would go that route if you have it.

 

So, what would be my next step?

 

Scantool Im guessing?

 

should be able to have it done for free at pretty much any auto parts store. They'll pull codes for you and clear them.

 

Not in Califonia. Is it possible for the PCV system to be clogged but still not see blow by when the dipstick is pulled with the engine running? I got a big oil leak. Rear main seal it seems. Maybe too much crankcase pressure?

 

I don't think so.

The Auto Parts store should pull the codes for you. Maybe not reset it. If you plan to work on your own car, that tool will save you a lot of time and frustration. Make sure you have a good OBD-II port and get a reader. I like my ScanGauge II, it will pay for itself in gas saving tips in no time. It is possible that the '94's didn't have the OBD-II tag on the cover. Is the plug there?

As for the PCV, I think it will smoke and cause a lot of pressure in the crank case. You should pull the dip stick when the car is warm, not cold. Also, it can blow the oil dip stick out and blow oil over the top of the motor through the oil cap. You may also loosen the oil cap on top of the motor with it running and it may blow the cap into your hand if there is a lot of pressure in there.

You need to really look for the oil leak. It took me 3 days to find the oil leak on our S70 and it was coming out of a cover on the back of the motor. I finally seen it bobbling out of the small cover. It also has cam shaft seal leaks.
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-s70-33/yuk-oil-leaks-47519/

Last sad reality, seals get old and leak. That's when we have to replace them.

 

If you have a 93-95 850, then up front under the hood you should have a little box by the windshield fluid tube. Oh heck see the pictures and read up at it here:

http://volvospeed.com/maintenance.shtml

Look for the 3 links for the Trouble Codes under the general information...when they talk about holding the button for 6-7 seconds dont count too fast or it wont work...also as soon as the LED relights after the first time, press it again, but wait for the light to come on.