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Check Engine Light on when Key is out. No start. Coil Melting.

Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

Check Engine Light on when Key is out. No start. Coil Melting.

  #1  
Old 02-03-2019, 07:11 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 2
Default Check Engine Light on when Key is out. No start. Coil Melting.

I have a 1995 Volvo 850 N/A Manual Transmission. It was driving fine 50 mph then the car clunked like I shifted bad, and then the engine died. I coasted in neutral to the side, then eventually got a tow. I tried to crank for about 2 minutes with gas pedal down too (not in one sitting, starter is still fine). The positive battery cable was pretty loose when I checked, it may have come off and on a few times. Maybe even frying some things?
Car is at a no start, but crank situation. Check Engine Light is on when car is off, key is out of ignition. It goes away when I have key on position 2. Strange.

OBD1 codes are:
A1: my box doesnt have the port for jumper to go into.
A2: 1-1-1 (how annoying)
A3: 422 213 214 141 142
A4: No blinks
A5: No blinks
A6: No blinks

Since then, I was looking around and saw my Ignition Coil was busted and had black stuff oozing out of it. Replaced it, tried jumping the car and sat there with the cables on while messing around with things. The replacement coil sizzled and busted in front of me. After cleaning my negative grounds, the wires and coil were still warm with 30 seconds of jumper cables on the battery. Is that normal? I'm afraid they will bust and melt again with prolonged driving.

Here is what I have done after reading around a bit:
1. I cleaned my Battery Posts with the wire thing, the terminals with the wire thing. No difference.
2. Cleaned the negative cable to body ground (in front of left headlight) and negative cable to block (under the starter/intake). No difference.
3. Removed negative battery cable overnight to reset ecu. No difference.
4. Replaced the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors. No difference.
5. Tried locking and unlocking the door 5 times for immobilizer reset. No difference.

Tomorrow, I plan on replacing the ECU. Is the Turbo ECU compatible with NA? There is a 1995 850 at the junkyard I can grab an ECU from. Maybe the ECU got fried when the positive cable made/lost contact quickly, and that was the clunking?

I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but I guess I can't figure this one out. Seems like an electrical problem.
 
  #2  
Old 02-04-2019, 03:11 PM
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Kingsport, TN
Posts: 1,427
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Overheating a coil would be a common outcome of continuously grounding the (-) side of the coil. Back when people had breaker points, you could do that just by leaving the ignition on. so you should verify that the (-) side is grounded, and then figure out why.
 
  #3  
Old 02-04-2019, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by firebirdparts View Post
Overheating a coil would be a common outcome of continuously grounding the (-) side of the coil. Back when people had breaker points, you could do that just by leaving the ignition on. so you should verify that the (-) side is grounded, and then figure out why.
How would I check that?
------------
Checked all fuses. No blown fuses.
Will try swapping in Ignition Switch, and replacing both ECU's for my car.
 

Last edited by qkraudgns32; 02-04-2019 at 03:36 PM.
  #4  
Old 02-05-2019, 10:39 AM
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Location: Kingsport, TN
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An ohm meter. You need to pop the ECU's out and ohm it again. See if it's grounded at all, and if so is it grounded through the ECU. That car has a separate computer for ignition. I am guessing it's not the computer but you will easily detect that.
 
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