Hi,

I have been searching this forum about how to replace my CV boot for the left side of my 850GLT (driver side). From what I have read, I am a little confused. I have attached a picture of my leaking boot and where I am in my progress. I am not sure what I need to do next to replace the boot. I do not want to take somehting apart that I do not need to. Do I need to take the entire assembly from the Transmission? Can you give me some advice?

Thanks,

Rod


[IMG]local://upfiles/4941/A268DCB735924D1CB6E428109DB9322F.jpg[/IMG]

 

Greetings from ultra-freezing Chicagoland.

Before I start, please refer to my previous post at:

https://volvoforums.com/m_10964/tm.htm

You do not have to disconnect the drive shaft from transmission. You just need to take the old boot off, clean the cv-joint grease and locate "Circlip" that is holding the axle shaft onto the cv-joint. Now, removing the Circlip is the most critical part of this procedure. The Circlip is not a typical snap-ring where you can just use snap-ring pliers and take it off. The Circlip only has two tangs, and you have to spread the tangs as you pull or hit on the cv-joint. While spreading the Circlip with a large flat-blade screwdriver, try pulling the cv-joint, or lightly tap a flat surface on the cv-joint with a hammer. After the Circlip and cv-joint are off, simply clean all grease, apply plenty of fresh grease andinstall the new boot. Put plenty of grease inside the boot as well, most cv-joint boot kits come with new grease and Circlip. Now, depending on the type of the boot band, you may need a special plier or Vise-grip to tighten the metal band. I'll attach an image of the plier that is similar to what I used, except I modified a cheap tool.

When I did mine, I broke the tangs on the Circlip, so I had to disconnect the drive shaft from transmission. Be very careful when removing the Circlip.

Haynes manual is ok for this procedure, but if you need more info, please let me know.

Good day,


JPN

 

JPN,

Thanks for the email. My problem was that I though that the circlip was the ring holding on the boot. After I took off the boot, I now see the circlip. I have spend about 20 min trying to get it spread apart and then hitting it with a hammer - no luck yet. Does the whole circlip need to be positioned out of its groove before I hit it?

Back to more....

Rod

 

Hello Rod,

I have to leave right now for work, but I'll be sure to reply to you when I get back at about 11:00pm. Try not to proceed further until you receive another reply from me or someone else, as breaking the Circlip turns into a catastrophic nightmare.

In the meantime, someone else may be able to assist you, such as Moderator Tech (the top dog on this forum).

See you in the evening,


JPN

 

Hi JPN,

OK. I have done some more reading, my circlip tangs are located on the bottom and I am about as greasy as I care to be. So I decided to try and removed the entire axle. Now, that was Easy!

So, would it be better for me to contine my work and replace the boot on my workbench OR just replace the entire axle for ~$100. The car has 90K miles. I am leaning toward the full axle.

Rod

 

Thats what I always do buy a rebult Axle and be done with it.

If the joint was somewhat dry you can go through all the trouble of rebooting it and putting it all back together and it might still make alot of noise.

 

Tech,

Thanks. Have you bought yours on-line or just find one local (NAPA)?

Rod

 

Have gotten mine locally.
Sometimes places that rebuild them sell them pretty cheap.
Or they might rebuild for you cheap.

 

Hello Rod,

Sorry my reply was delayed, a 747 came back due to one of the 4 engines quitting in the air, so I was stuck at work until midnight.

I'm glad Tech replied to you in the meantime. You can't go wrong with Tech's advice, he usually solves people's troubles in only a few sentences, whereas I write a full-page essay and still don't seem to help people much.

Anyway, if the outer cv-joint is making noise, I would replace the entire shaft with a rebuilt unit. I would stay away from places like NAPA, though. Tech might have a different opinion, but as far as my observation goes, Volvos (or any imported cars) seem to be very sensitive to the quality of parts, and cheaper parts are often guaranteed tofail prematurely, so I always go with OEM parts, even though you have to pay 15-30% extra, but the added cost is well worth it in my opinion.

When I did my cv boots, I found it in the earliest stage, so there was no damage to the cv-jointtherefore I decided to replace both inboard & outboard boots. I broke the tangs on the outer joint, and there was no way of removing it. So I disconnected the entire axle and replaced both inner & outer boots. While this was an extra trouble, I learned a lot by going through the tougher route.

Hereare places that sell rebuilt axle:

http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850driveline.htm

http://www.drivewire.com/volvoparts/...tassembly.html

But shop around, someone else might know better places than these vendors. I myself have been using FCP Groton as the primary source of parts and have been happy so far.

Well, you may benefit more by replacing the entire axle than just do the boots. Now, what kind of axle nut do you have? Certain models have non-reusable axle nut, where they have flange that has to be staked when correct torqueis reached. Also, after torquing with torque wrench, the nut has to be turned a certain angle. To be accurate, you need an angle-wrench, but I eyeballed it.

I hope the repair goes smooth for the rest of the procedure. Let us know how it went.

Sincerely,


JPN

 

Hello Rod,

I forgot to mention one thing. Is your 850 automatic or manual? If auto, did some tranny fluid leak when you disconnected the drive shaft from the tranny side? If so, make sure to add whatever the quantity was lost, I believe it was about a half quart. If driven without lost tranny fluid replenished, the tranny might act up, so make sure on this part. The fluid used on 850 is Dexron-III (IIE)/Ford Mercon.

Good day,


JPN

 

Dexron 3 is ok? The manual says 2E. No problem with Dexron 3?

Regards

 

Hi Axel,

Yes, Dexron-III is ok. As a matter of fact, IIE seems to have been superseded by III, even though the owner's guide says IIE (Haynes says IIE or III or Mercon). I have not found a IIE in my area, and Dexron-III and Mercon are compatible, as they usually come in the same bottle.

↓A reference:
http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/040128.htm

Or if you wish to do a further research:
http://www.google.co.jp/search?hl=ja...ron-IIE&lr=

Cheers,


JPN

 

I'll have to learn Japanese first

 

Hi Axel,

I tried this and it still shows in Japanese in my PC.

http://www.google.com.ar/

Is Unicode paying some trick?IT is too complicated for my organic processor (brain) to comprehend.

Stay cool, while I stay warm


JPN

 

Hi,

I went ahaed and picked up a NEW CV Axle from NAPA for $139. The quality looks good. We will see how it performs.....

It pushed into the gear box without much trouble. But as I read through my Hanes book, it mentioned putting some metal glue on the drive shaft that goes into the rotor. So, I went today to get some at the Volvo dealer. They did not have any to sell, but they could order me a small bottle for for $77. No thanks.

So, what is the metal glue ment to do? Is there another option to use (JB weld?)

Thanks,

Rod

 

I wouldn't worry about that. As long as it came with new axle nut that you can detent to ensure it stays tight, you will be fine. I have changed a lot of FWD axles, and this is the first I have ever heard of metal glue being used. - AB

 

Hi Rod,

I'm with AB (B1mmer). I really don't know why Haynes mentioned it. My local Volvo wanted $30 for the adhesive, no thanks[8D].

I used a bit of Permatex thread locker (red-coloured), just a bit so I wouldn't have much trouble removing it the next time. No, don't use JB weld, you'll be sorry later if used.

Also, read one of my previous posts about the axle nut, it has to be torqued and then has to be angled. Also, if the tranny leaked some fluid/oil, make sure to top up.

Good luck,


JPN

 

Hi JPN,

Ok, NO JP weld.

I pick up some fluid.

Now the nut. The nut that came off of my old axle did not have any type of washer attaced. The new nut on my new axle came with a new nut that has a washer attached. Can I just re-use my old nut and not have to set the angle?

Rod

 

You can as long as it is the same thread.
As long as you can get the nut tight don't worry about metal glue.

Be glad you didn't get the Volvo stuff and use it.
You would be REALLY SORRY NEXT TIME. That is the toughest stuff I have ever seen.

They might have noted it because sometimes the splines on the new axle might be a Hair smaller. Then when you get on the gas hard you might hear a click from the axle moving a tad.

 

Hi Rod,

As for the axle nut, some VIN models have reusable nut, while others have non-reusable one with a flange that has to be punched in the groove on the axle shaft. However, as far as my observation goes, even the "non-reusable"nut seemed reusable.

I once bought a CV-boot kit, which had a nut that was obviously of wrongdesign, and theentire kit was made in Cxxxx. Idiscarded the nut,kept theboot as a spare, and decided to buy another package of Inner & Outer boots kit that was made in Germany, probably one of the OEMs (CRP).

Anyway, does your original nut have "flange"? If not, the nut can be reused and I would forget the one that came with the axle (but keep it asa spare). But if the nut is of flange-type, I would either use a bit of Permatex Red Thread locker liquid (just a bit), or try forcing the leftover of the flange into the groove. Ask Tech for the safety should you decide to take this route. I bought an OEM nut, which was $8 or so. Not cheap for a nut, but considering safety and the fact that the 850 was actually not mine, I decided to buy it.

Haynes says that the axle nut has to be torqued at 88 ft-lbs (1056 in-lbs) as a first stage, then it has to be turned additional 60 degrees. When I tried to angle it, I could not turn more than about 45 degrees, even though I was stepping on a breaker bar and doing hop-step-jump. I then decided that additional 15 degrees wouldn't be necessary, so I staked the flange andit was fine.

Sounds like your 850 has reusable nut, so I would just go ahead and use it, but you still want to angle it at least 45 degrees, after 88 ft-lbs. Consult Tech for further assistance, if my explanation isn't clear.

Good luck,


JPN