Dead in Dolgeville
#1
Dead in Dolgeville
I have a 1993 Volvo 850 GLT that just won’t start still. I’ve checked, replaced, checked again, still nothing. Here’s the skinny: Friday it worked great. It ran like it never had before. Saturday I go out to start the car and nothing. I tried again. That time it sputtered a bit like it was trying to catch, but failed to do so. At that time I was getting no fuel, and I didn’t hear the pump. I figured ok the fuel pump relay. I changed that. The pump was running as I could hear it and fuel was getting to the fuel bar at the right pressures. So then I come across a code after doing a diagnostic at the fuel side AND ignition side. The fuel side gave me code 131. RPM sensor. Changed that. No difference. I got NO codes on the ignition side. So we removed the plug wires with the plugs to see if they would fire. No fire. So I went and got a spare ignition coil just to see if that was the problem since the coil was a new one that I didn’t need to replace at the time of other issues that have since been rectified. Still no fire. Distributor and rotor changed, still nothing. Plug wires changed, nothing still. Did resistance checks on the sensors cam pos, tps, idle air mixture etc etc to no avail as all were working and within their proper specs. There was only ONE noticeable difference since owning this car. I use to hear for a TIME mind you a chattering or whirring sound INSIDE the car cabin when I switch the ignition to spot I. I don’t hear that now. Perhaps that was some alarm telling me that it has been in LIMP MODE from the start of ownership of this thing, I don’t know. Other than the cam position sensor, fuel SYSTEM relay (not the fuel pump relay), ECM, or the fuel injector relay, what is causing this? The timing belt is definitely NOT the cause nor is the timing as the Volvo dealership did that as I wasn’t taking ANY chances and it cost me to be sure. I went so far as to double check their work with a reputable mechanic, and was told the job was done to perfection. What is going on with this chunk of iron?
#2
#3
It's strange you had a running car when you parked it and the fuel pump relay and no spark condition happened at the same time the next time you try to start it up. One or the other I can understand but losing both fuel and spark on the next start up just doesn't sound right.
If you don't have spark coming out of the coil, replacing the wires, distributor cap, distributor rotor and spark plugs were just a waste of time as far as solving the no start. You need to test or replace the sensors that give the signal to the coil to fire. There is always the chance you have a bad ground or feed circuit causing the issues.
When you crank if for a number of seconds will the plugs get wet with fuel? The signal for triggering the injectors is shared by the ignition system.
You need to follow a diagnostic tree to see what is causing your no spark. Where did you get or what are you using to find the values you used to check out your sensors?
If you don't have spark coming out of the coil, replacing the wires, distributor cap, distributor rotor and spark plugs were just a waste of time as far as solving the no start. You need to test or replace the sensors that give the signal to the coil to fire. There is always the chance you have a bad ground or feed circuit causing the issues.
When you crank if for a number of seconds will the plugs get wet with fuel? The signal for triggering the injectors is shared by the ignition system.
You need to follow a diagnostic tree to see what is causing your no spark. Where did you get or what are you using to find the values you used to check out your sensors?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post