Greetings: 97 850 225k miles.

Ok, my driver's side window stopped working. I have:

A. Replaced the main control assembly for all the switches. Bought a
used one on ebay.

B. Sprayed contact cleaner on all contacts.

C. Swapped switches w/ front passenger switch....both switches function.

D. Placed 12 v. on removed window motor and motor functions.

F. Re-installed window motor and it would function for about 10 times and then stops working. Seems to be laboring when raising the window. Other windows seem to go up more quickly.

Thoughts? Is there a faulty relay somewhere?

tia....

 

Hi Tia: Did you lube the track? Does it go up and down easy when the motor is disconnected? Motor could be weak.

 

Thanks..What type of lube? seems to be smooth ride up...

 

What is referred to is the window track mechanism. If it is dirty/corroded, it may be forcing the motor to work harder, which is opening the circuit breaker/telling the overload relay to quit energising the window motor.

If the mechanism is smooth, see attached for the locations of the window & moon roof circuit breaker. There are x3 overload relays and the one for the PWR window is #3, but I am not sure as to which one is #3 OVLD relay.


JPN

 

When I had this problem it was because of the lower track coming lose. Take the door panel off with the window all the way up and reach to the back of the door and see if the short aluminum track is lose. There is a rivet, or screw on some cars, that goes from the outside back of the door that holds that track in place. I have had to replace two of them. Sometimes they get all bent up and messes the window up.

 

Greetings! Thanks for the great replies. On Sunday I will get a chance to solve this..will post an update then.

Cheers...

 

Cheers mate, and hope things go well.


JPN

 

Greetings.. Thanks for the great help...

Ok, an update:

A. The window guide right below the window lock was completely loose.
There was a rivet that was suppose to hold it tight. The rivet was just
flopping around. I sawed-off the rivet and replaced it w/ a stainless
nut/bolt. Then I lubed the track.


B. Eventually the window began to operate. I lubed everything I could.

C. The window stills seems to go up more slowly than the other windows-
like it has to work at it a bit...I may buy a new motor and see what that does, but for the time being it works.


mlabrut

 

Do you guys recommend insulating the door? I like to spray black rubberized undercoat paint into the sheet-metal, which helps with road-noise as well.

 

Okay..here is an update...

So, I take the car out for a bit and the window does not work..agh!!!!!
It worked perfect last night. After some tinkering I discover that it works only
if the door is open. Close the door = no window action.

It is 100% consistent this way..thoughts?

This is almost comical.

 

Either there is a bad wire going to the door or the door is flexed just enough when it is closed to put too much pressure on the track, thus binding the window. 1) Play with the nut/bolt and track with the door closed. 2) Get a schematic and a meter and test the wires with the door open and then shut.

Maybe the motor is burned out by now?

 

I didn't read the thread real closely, but a problem I was having with my windows was corrosion on the master switch contacts. The rockers pop off, and I cleaned the contacts inside and the copper with a dremel. I actually took the master switch out, but apparently that isn't necessary. The switch can actually stay in the console.

There are small ball bearings, be careful not to lose them. You will see how the go once you get a rocker off.

Anyhow, the whole job took about 30 minutes. Wish I had done it much sooner. That switch is in a real bad place right below the cup holders. Fluid leak down, and that speeds up the corrosion.

As for testing the motor, you can always take off the door panel and apply voltage directly to the motor. Positive voltage goes up, negative down.