Engine knock...fix or swap??
#1
Engine knock...fix or swap??
Here it is short and sweet. Motor starts up fine but has a real healthy knock. When it started for the first time(in a while) it took a moment to get fuel up to it so i could hear it clunk or clatter a little as it turned over Now it starts right up. It seems to be on the topside any thoughts?? Am going to tear into it when i can get it inside. (btw180k) As for a swaping..... I have an n/a engine with 110k on it new timing belt runs great (i was told....) its on an auto trannie How do i find out the year of the motor and if it has an air pump?(whats an air pump?? Its got the computer still on it. The car I have is 95 850 5 spd.... Thanks in advance. Would like to get it rolling before the wife to be finds out LOL ZR
#2
#3
Once you get to the problem and you know what it is post it. That way if you're looking for some value in a recommendation you'd have a better chance of getting some.
As it stands, you have a noise that could be anything, it could be a $50 fix or a damaged unrepairable block.
The air pump is used for emissions. It adds air to the exhaust system to help the catalytic converter "burn" and convert the exhaust gases into a cleaner end product.
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/air...ial-volvo.html
As it stands, you have a noise that could be anything, it could be a $50 fix or a damaged unrepairable block.
The air pump is used for emissions. It adds air to the exhaust system to help the catalytic converter "burn" and convert the exhaust gases into a cleaner end product.
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/air...ial-volvo.html
#4
Thanks for advice Mr. Frog, just not sure if there may be some thing common. Dont hve much spare time to learn and fix things but i do have a spare motor Lol a swap i can do pull apart a 20v head........we shall see. Still very young in the world of car engines and what not. Well once i get into it farther i will re post.
#5
You might want to just exchange the engines and set the knocking one aside for later that way there wouldn't be any pressure to hurry up and fix it to get the car running again. That way you know you'll get it back on the road and it would likely be the least expensive way to go.
The hard part for giving advice is talking to someone on their level so they can understand and put to use what you're telling them and guessing where that level is. I'm on my second year with my first Volvo and when I was first lurking on the sites I learned a ton of stuff. I've been working on cars for over 40 years and I still find that what used to be cut in stone some engineer went out and had a three martini lunch and came back to work and CAD/CAM'd some "new" way of doing something and made the access to it 20% smaller than the average hand.
The hard part for giving advice is talking to someone on their level so they can understand and put to use what you're telling them and guessing where that level is. I'm on my second year with my first Volvo and when I was first lurking on the sites I learned a ton of stuff. I've been working on cars for over 40 years and I still find that what used to be cut in stone some engineer went out and had a three martini lunch and came back to work and CAD/CAM'd some "new" way of doing something and made the access to it 20% smaller than the average hand.
#6
@ mr.frog.Lol well as life goes i just got laid off at work(MN's fault your bridge inspectors are EVIL and your regs insane!!!) and i will have some spare time to check things out farther......sooooo having looked around a bit more it would seem that the engine i have would fit..... so long as i swap all the parts and pieces to the donor motor and the year dont matter???? would still like to know the year for parts ordering though.... Thanks for the input
Melting in Wi
Melting in Wi
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