Fuel Pressure Issues? TPS Problem?
#21
04-06-2013, 05:45 PM
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Question #1. just realized fuel pressure regulator IS leaking into vacuum, ordered new one and waiting. Would that problem prevent starting & running? (starting fluid makes the engine start for a second)
Yes it can. It can leak fuel into the vacuum line driving the mixture rich and making the engine run like crap as the ECM tries to lean it out.
Or it can be leaking internally and externally and not holding pressure in the rail so you get a no start, like you describe.
#2. The throttle position sensor is I think the last item I have not tested. Would that one prevent the engine from running? Seems like I need to have wide open throttle to make the starter fluid trick get a sputter, too.
If you're needing to hold the throttle all the way you are actually over riding the computer and cutting way back on fuel. It's how we (below zero Minnesota) get the cars unflooded. It's likely due to the regulator leaking raw fuel into the intake and flooding it.
#3. Is there any way to test the computer itself for trouble, and the last idea is somebody suggested the ignition switch may be bad when going into the run position, so engine dies immediately.
The ECM is the last thing to check. They rarely fail. BUT MattyXXL turned me onto the problem of some ECM getting corrosion on the contacts. If you want to carefully pull the ECM out and check the contacts at the bottom it couldn't hurt.
Ignition switch is relatively cheap and fairly easy to replace. It's also a source of many strange electrical gremlins. My story is I'd drop the cruise and it wouldn't set again. Took some time but finally tracked it down to the ignition switch. I found when the cruise dropped if I moved the key a little I could set the cruise again.
You should be able to put a 12 volt test light on one of the coil leads to see if you are in fact dropping the circuit in "run".
Yes it can. It can leak fuel into the vacuum line driving the mixture rich and making the engine run like crap as the ECM tries to lean it out.
Or it can be leaking internally and externally and not holding pressure in the rail so you get a no start, like you describe.
#2. The throttle position sensor is I think the last item I have not tested. Would that one prevent the engine from running? Seems like I need to have wide open throttle to make the starter fluid trick get a sputter, too.
If you're needing to hold the throttle all the way you are actually over riding the computer and cutting way back on fuel. It's how we (below zero Minnesota) get the cars unflooded. It's likely due to the regulator leaking raw fuel into the intake and flooding it.
#3. Is there any way to test the computer itself for trouble, and the last idea is somebody suggested the ignition switch may be bad when going into the run position, so engine dies immediately.
The ECM is the last thing to check. They rarely fail. BUT MattyXXL turned me onto the problem of some ECM getting corrosion on the contacts. If you want to carefully pull the ECM out and check the contacts at the bottom it couldn't hurt.
Ignition switch is relatively cheap and fairly easy to replace. It's also a source of many strange electrical gremlins. My story is I'd drop the cruise and it wouldn't set again. Took some time but finally tracked it down to the ignition switch. I found when the cruise dropped if I moved the key a little I could set the cruise again.
You should be able to put a 12 volt test light on one of the coil leads to see if you are in fact dropping the circuit in "run".
Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 04-06-2013 at 05:47 PM.
#22
04-07-2013, 01:13 PM
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