Alrite so today has been horrible. I have an oil leak so i bought this stuff called NO LEAK engine oil treatment. It claims it 'repairs rear main seals', and after reading the rear main seals on the 850 will often cause a leak, so stupidly i bought it and added it in. Rite after i added it in it wouldnt start. I kept trying and after about 5 seconds it finally started up. My check engine light came on and it came up mass air flow sensor hight output. I told the guy at advance auto my story and he said that he doesnt trust any additives and said i might of clogged hoses in my turbo!! I changed my oil and filter right away, however it still strains to start. I took it for a run on the highway and it was runing great, however at idle the engine was a little rougher with the rpms from 900-1100 rpm. After the 3rd time starting it after the incidient, the turn signals, headlights and dash lights didnt work. when i got home i started up again and they worked. wierd! I hope i didnt f#*k up my engine by adding additive. it has never given me any starting/stalling problems, the engine has been a champ since i got it. So i dont think its a coincidnece that i added it and its acting up. I have an appointment for 4 piece timing belt kit and water pump to be put in on friday the 7th so im having him look at it then. Until then im driving my dad's truck because i dont want to put anymore strain on the engine by starting it. Any help is greatly appreciated.
thanks,
weston.

 

Check you battery.

No Leak will not cause these problem at all; it is just addictive.

If your engine has misfire before, then it sounds like a oil leak at that cylinder.

I would give it several hundred miles for No Leak to work out. The same if you use Restore.

 

I'm imagining this is almost like Lucas NO Dry Start oil additive. In all simple terms it is an incredibly heavy oil. It comes out of the bottle like glue. The strain may be caused by multiple things, but having a heavier weight anything by definition of physics creates more resistance.

I'd check your battery and alternator and make sure that all of this is caused by only one thing, not something else going on the side that you aren't considered.

Give it a few hundred miles for it to work its way out of the system then do a really good oil change and filter. I'm betting the filter won't look very good at that point.

 

the MAF sensor codes are coming up saying high ouput. We unplugged the sensor today, and it started up and idled fine. However, when we plugged it back in, it wouldnt start, and when it did it would sputter. I read that this means a bad MAF sensor, so my dad ordered one from fcp today. It should be here friday. I think it was a coincidence that it did that when i added the additive. I did an oil and oil filter change asap yesterday.

 

Do you have a turbo? Perhaps a IC tube is undone.

 

Glad to hear that you solved that problem but what about oil leak?
Are you going to try additive again?

 

nope, i'm defiantly not trying additive again, i've heard from alot of people not to put additive in a turbocharged engine since yesterday. I will see if my mechanic can try to spot out where its coming from when he does my timing belt/water pump on friday. It prolly wont be for awhile considering that maintence put me back 500+170 for MAF sensor.

 

Additives aren't good man. On an old Chevy truck? Sure!

It should work itself out. If it leaks, additives usually don't fix anything at all.

Fuel system cleaner is the only additive that is worthwhile.

 

Glad to see that you are getting you MAF replaced. Your be back on the road in no time.

As for the leak, if it is not that bad, I would just leave it. The RMS on this car will run you around 1000 dollars to have it replaced. Also, when was your PCV, if ever, checked? If it is clogged badly, it will cause the RMS to leak.

 

Yeah, i heard the RMS is pretty expensive. As of i know, the pcv was never replaced, but ive only had the car since december. I did notice however, that when the engine is hot and i pull out the dipstick it smokes a tiny bit. I've read on here that can mean its time to replace your pcv system.
P.S- Fcpgroton, you are the best! I ordered that MAF sensor yesterday and its supposed to be here today. Also, my timing belt kit was here in a matter of 2 days!

 

Thank you Weston. I am very glad that we can be of service to you. If there is anything else you need or if you have any other questions, please let us know.

 

i put in the new sensor and it starts up but still does hesitate for a second which is alot more than before when it would fire up without any hesitation. Is this normal? I also noticed that one of the vacuum hoses connecting to the MAF were starting to dryrot. would that cause hesitation?
thanks,
weston

 

The computer need some time to learn its behavior.

I have a vacuum hose connecting MAF and the other end just sit there, no problem so far.

 

I would do the PCV and see if that helps solve the RMS leak. It might since it is still a small leak.

 

If you decide to do the PCV system replacement, plan to spend some time on that job. I just did a PCV replacement on my S70 and the 850. Took me 8 hours to do the S70 and 5 to do the 850. Planning is the key (right tools, clamps, etc.).

Got my 1st kit from iPd and the second for FCP Groton. I would strongly recommend you get the special hose clamp tool and fuel rail return hose before you dig into it.

 

Thanks for all the help! i just got my timing belt done and he looked at the main seal and he said it was bone dry. I guess mine is a dry volvo from what he was saying. He did say one of the hoses way really dry and probably clogged and recommended a pcv system. I am ordering the system from fcp, and am going to take a day to do it with my dad.