I was replacing the front axles on this 1996 Volvo 850 due to torn CV boots, and a major rumble in the front end when driving. I bought new GPS axles for both sides at Advance Auto, and started on the passenger side because it was the one in worse condition. It took a lot of effort, but I got the old one out, and started working on putting the new one in.

No matter what I tried to do, I could not get the new one to seat fully in the transmission. I could tell because the bearing would not seat against the bearing holder - there was about a 1/8" gap, and thus could not get the bolts on the bearing cap to meet up with the holes to bolt the cap back on. It seems that it gets REALLY difficult to push it in once the wider diameter section starts sliding in past the oil seal. I don't see anything wrong with the seal, but it is extremely tight on the shaft.

I took it out and carefully measured it against the old axle, and everything lined up, so it seemed like the right part, and I must have just not been doing it right. Well, I tried two more times today, with the same problem. I measured the depth that it should go in, and marked that on the shaft, and saw it was not going in enough. I unbolted the bearing holder, thinking maybe I could adjust that a bit, but no. Each time I did this, it kept getting harder and harder to get the shaft out, and I was getting more and more frustrated.

The last time, I started yanking on the outboard CV joint, and cursing it out at the top of my lungs, and, of course, it came apart at the inboard CV joint. The band came off, but I think the inner boot is OK, and almost all the grease stayed in.

So, what do I do now? Can I fix this with an inner boot kit? Or should I take it back to Advance and complain? Or do I have to pay for another new one?

And what about the problem of it not seating? What could be causing that - is the seal damaged, or the shaft the wrong diameter?

Anybody else have trouble with these GPS axles?

Thanks for any help.

 

Rarely do we ever replace axles at my dealership. The only time we do, it is because of a vibration under load/acceleration. If boots are torn, we remove the axle, disassemble it, and replace the boots accordingly. If you cant get it into the trans, you are not properly lined up with the splines and/or not greasing the splines. I use assembly goo on innder axle splines and volvo high pressure grease on the outter splines. Line it up in the trans, and shove it in. Hammer it in there as if you had a slide hammer.

 

It is also possible that you have the wrong axle. Count the spindles on the old axle and then on the new one and see if you get the same number. The axle should go right in without much effort if it is the correct one.

 

First, I was fortunate that I did not lose much grease when the inner CV joint came apart, so all I had to do was clean out a bit of dirt, and the joint went right back together. I was able to get the steel band to slide over the end of the boot, and back into the groove to hold the boot on.

As for getting it into the transmission, what Dealer_Tech said struck a note with me - maybe if I lubricated the splines and shaft, it would slide in past the seal easier. But I thought that the best lubricant to use would be ATF, since that is what the transmission is full of anyway. I coated the end of the shaft with ATF, and this time, still with some heavy pushing, it did slide in to seat fully. The bearing could now line up with the cap, and I could both the cap on.

Also, thanks to Dealer_tech, I am going to take apart the old CV joints, and look at their condition. If they are good enough, I will probably get a boot kit, and re-build them to have as spares.

Thanks for your help.

 

My boots were bad also: however, I found I could get rebuilt CVJs at auto store for not a lot more than the costs of new boots, lube etc. After driver side CCJ jumped out, while driving, giving out a horrible sound and disabling car, I pulled the joint to find it had been mismatced in boxing and did not have the small sling ring on Xmission end needed to hold it in.I wish now I had just rebooted the OEM ones. I doubt you will ever use your rebooted spares; however there is always e-bay or some one who can use them. Oil seal leakage at Xmission is why I originally removed the joints after 160,000 miles. I now keep a spare seal( about $25 cost so I don't have to drive 100 miles to nearest Volvo dealer parts. No auto store could get them.