Idle while in park is just under the 1k mark. Looks like it's 900. should be 800, right?
Is there any way to adjust, electronic means self adjusting. Will adjusting the idle control screw help? or is it ok where its at ?
Today I replaced the 2 top engine bushings in an attempt to get rid of some unwanted vibration. The old bushings were trash, the new (blue from IPD) ones helped some. I'm hoping if I replace the underside transmission torque mount will help even more.
The vibration i'm trying to control is only present at at a stop light, once I give it gas it goes away. What else should I check?

 

Turning the nut adjuster will change the idle...


All the motor mounts need to be changed including the trans rod...
have you changed the fire wall mount?

But to get rid of the vibration completely the
Subframe bushings need to be changed my friend...

 

Matt, have you ever had the blue iPd mount? It is made for vibration. Basically a lifetime mount. Yes he did change the firewall mount.

 

I've read conflicting posts. some say the blue poly bushings are great some don't like them. I'm going to replace the underside and see if I like the feel. If I'm not happy I'll replace them all with oem parts. It's really the only way as every situation is different. As for the idle, the nut is adjusted to the point where the cable begins to be loose and the idle will not go any lower. As a side note after the new bushings went in most of the front end creeks disappeared. The saga continues .... maybe it's a fuel delivery issue, I've never replaced the fuel filter when I did the plugs, cap, rotor, air filter, and wires. My bad.

 

I could be wrong but turning that nut will only lower the RPM if some (insert your favorite demeaning word here) took out the slack to try and fix some other problem.
Bought mine with a bad MAF and the "clown" had used this to try and fix his idle speed. Under normal conditions there should be just a bit of play in this cable at idle as you want to have the throttle plate sitting closed on it's stop. The idle air control motor should be doing the job of controlling idle as directed from the engine management computer. I'm sure there is a spec on that "play", I just don't know it off hand.
If you're using that nut to adjust idle you have a problem someplace.

On vibration, I'm thinking it's the mounts too. Not sure which mounts that is something you need to look at and figure out on the vehicle. I don't have any problem with the IPD blue upper mount. The stock one was pounded out and hanging there doing nothing. Installed the blue one and it doesn't feel harsh. As you tighten the mounting up you might get a different vibration but you will not have the motor rocking all over as it might be doing now. If it does get harsh you might need to loosen them up and tighten them down in neutral or in drive and test drive it to see which one transmits the least vibration to the body.

 

There are two IPD mounts firm and soft the firm are the ones alot of people complain doesnt work... I like the light blue one like the one you have that is the soft one.

I had the light blue one and took it out when I Pulled the turbo to rebuild it and I F-ing lost it...
I think I threw it out by accident.

Trust me on this when you change the sub frame mounts It will feel like the car is new again... amazing how much of a difference it makes... Little tip of advice though, Get the XC (HD) mounts... its worth the extra $10 each, Im about to do mine agian but this time with the HD mounts.

 

I promise you guys that the blue upper torque mount causes idle vibration. People that don't complain about them don't mind the vibration. They know there is a trade off. When I sold my sedan that had it, the girl I sold the car to complained about the vibration. I explained the situation and told her if she would rather have NO vibration and have softer mounts that would likely need to be changed in 5 years or so, I'd be glad to swap them out for her. She opped out and kept them.

I did have the upper torque mount and the lower tranny mount poly which causes twice as much vibration. My daughter only has the iPd HD tranny mount and she complains about the vibration but likes the smoother crisper shifts so I left it in there. I may swap my mount with her next time she's in town to see how she feels about it because my wagon has a good smoother tranny mount. Maybe she will let me keep the HD tranny mount.

Again, for the 3rd time, check the front mount near the pass tire. If that mount is bad it will allow the front of the motor rest on the frame and cause some vibration, and even worse, some slap play on turque condition. It will allow the front of the motor to move almost an inch. I have seen one totally torn before which would allow the motor to move as much as the upper torque mount would let it. Have both of those blown and that motor will bounce around quite a bit. When the front mount is torn, it will cause the motor to sag about 1/2 inch and allow the motor to rest on the bottom of the mount. When the mount is good, the motor will float on the mount. The mount also has 2 hooks, one on either end which keeps the mount in place. It would have to be real bad to tear through those hooks, it provides no purpose when that happens.



Motor mount, right side, Volvo S70, replacement instructions

As for the idle, I'm pretty sure the ECU sets the idle. Try to put that cable adjustment back where it was. Adjusting it may move the idle plate off of it's stop and could cause issues with the cruise, tranny, etc.

I have read where some people say their cars idle at 800, some at 900, I believe mine idles at 825. The repair manual that I have says it should idle at 850. It claims that it can not be adjusted about 5 times in 2 paragraphes. I'm not sure but maybe a temp sending unit may effect the idle speed. Does it idle at 900 all the time? When cold? When hot? Have you checked the idle speed with an OBD-II reader/scanner?

Besides all that, I really doubt that the idle is causing any vibration other than the faster engine speed. The I5 motor is one of the smoothest made. It is 20% smoother than a I4. The I6 is only 25% smoother than an I4. Not much difference between an I5 and I6.

Like Matt said, replacing the subframe mounts will make the car feel like new. They hydrolic mounts will only make a difference if they are blown, you can tell by inspecting them. The main issues are with the torn mounts and worn subframe bushings.

 

BTW, What model car do you have? Here is the other mount. The worn/torn mount is on the left.

 

I have a 95 850 NA
Another note: When I replace the two bushings we're talking about, the firewall went in 1st then to get the front on in I had to put the car in gear and rev the engine in order to get the bolt in. Also it was so cold this am, about 5f, the car would barely move and shuttered like an Apollo lift off, things became normal after everything warmed up . Last year it got so cold one night when I went to move the car in the am the right tie rod snapped. I put the nut back where it was idling at 900 or so. When I tighten the upper stabilizer mount should I be in park neutral or drive ? IPD has two versions of transmission torque mounts, oem and hd poly. Opinions on which one I should use? one more thing, someone removed the pcv firetrtap setup and vented the line from the oil catch can to the cold air intake hose before the airbox, I plan on putting all that back to stock when it warms up a bit, the way it is now I have to clean the IACV and intake with carb cleaner and replace the air filter every couple of months.

 

Have you considered using full synthetic oil? Check out this video:
Synthetic Oil Basics - YouTube

Also, I'm really surprised you asked about the iPD tranny mounts when I clearly stated that the HD poly mount will cause vibration. If you want to avoid vibration, get the OEM mount.

Another thing, are you using 91+ octane? If not, you may want to start. If you are using something like 87, your car may be changing your timing to avoid KNOCK. That may change your idle as well. Your car is made with a high compression motor which demands 91+ octane. Using less can cause problems, especially if your knock system fails or has issues. The compression ratio on your motor is 10.5:1. Very high for passenger cars. Makes that little I5 peppy.

 

I get it about the poly stuff so i'l get the oem piece, should have in the first place but read it was a pain to get the new one in and refuse to go to the stealership, if I don't like the feel I'll replace the poly stuff with rubber. Those 2 new mounts do make things feel tighter and snappier. Once I take the foot off the brake she feels great. I also get it about the octane, I'll try that too. The wife has an issue with waiting till the gas light comes on to put gas in and only 10 bucks at a time. Wowo about the video!!!

 

The idle on the 850's is 100% ECU controlled. When you let the car idle the butterfly within the throttle body will be sitting right at closed, or should be based on a little position screw on the mechanism. When the engine is at idle there Idle Control Valve takes over an allows the correct amount of air to travel around the throttle body. The engine should idle around 850rpms (ironic). If you adjust the throttle cable all you are doing is changing the position of the butterfly and allowing more air in. The ECU detects that and will do all it can to correct the idle speed. I know you may get results shortening the cable or adjusting the set screw but its counterproductive as the ECU fights whatever setting you do. Basically, leave it alone. If you want you can clean the idle control valve by taking it out and spraying carb cleaner into it. When free you should be able to lightly twist it back and forth in your hand (out of the car) and feel the spring loaded mechanism inside freely moving. If they get gummed up the car will idle rough since it cant open or close to compensate.

 

been there done that and agree boxpin ...

It's going down to 0 tonight so im in for a careful slow startup in the am and hope nothing freezes.

 

Crazy vehicle shuttering this am but went away after about 20 minutes, got down to 1 last night, so I'll be doing an oil change and using a quality synthetic. recommendations please. I'm not sure if it's because I'm using regular oil and it got so cold, or it's the poly bushings I put in and they warm up after a while, or the new bushings in conduction with an old front lower engine torque rod ( if the top ones were shot im thinking the lower is too ) What do you folks recommend for an oil. It's under 200k miles, more like 130k. Also looking for some direction on replacing the lower torque mount, going for the oem rubber. I looked around Matthew's sit but didn't see anything.

 

Lower torque transmission mount is like changing a light bulb, to easy. No instructions needed. Five minute job once you get under the car.

 

thanks rspi,i'll order the oem part tomorrow. as for the shaking and cold start it must have been the oil, things are warming up here to 35 and have had not had an issue. still going to replace the poly stuff with rubber. thanks.

 

Let me guess, between beers you came across that blue "clorox toilet bowl cleaner" and wondered what it was doing in the garage and tossed it !!

 

Please don't ask. You'll just start another ..... discussion. Use a good synthetic and change it regularly and you're golden.

As for the question about "regular" oil. If it's 5W30, it's 5W30 in regular, blended or full synthetic. The argument ... opps discussion that will ensue will be about the better lubricating properties of blended and full syn to regular. I do feel the full synthetic has better protection for your moving parts but someone will come on and say Mobil 1, Valvoline Syn, Castrol Edge ... is crap so who do you go with ??
But your rough idle wouldn't be caused by the oil not being a synthetic. If you had a straight 50 or 60 weight racing oil and it's down around zero degrees and it was over full and the crank was hitting it ... maybe. That's a lot of maybe.

I run a synthetic, whatever is on sale. Autozone doesn't have a "house brand" synthetic to my knowledge but I have run the Oreilly full synthetic and when it's on sale with a filter it really is a great buy.

 

It has warmed up here in RI and since that the shaking at first start in the am has gone away, supposed to get cold again so i'll have to see what happens. I get it though how straight oil can thicken up in low temps.
I'm hoping everything goes back to normal after the new lower torque rod and oil change.
This is a florida volvo out of its element in new england.

 

You have to remember where they are built. They were "born" in the cold and snow. It's out of Florida and back in it's element