Hood latch problem
#4
On occasion by passenger side wont pop. You cant really tell but the latch has almost popped and the mechanism is sort of pivoting internally. I have to physically push down on the hood there to sort of reset it. Then I try again. Anyway, thought I would suggest it.
Two things are going on. One, the cross cable broke, two, there is just not enough pull on the cable. Since you can get the drivers side open you should be able to get your hand in there and with someone else pulling the lever inside the car you also pull on the tab that has the cross over cable.
Two things are going on. One, the cross cable broke, two, there is just not enough pull on the cable. Since you can get the drivers side open you should be able to get your hand in there and with someone else pulling the lever inside the car you also pull on the tab that has the cross over cable.
#5
All of these strange quarks that 850's have can really send someone running for cover. Someone needs to make a good "Stage 0" write up of what someone should/could check from bumper to bumper to make sure they don't get stung like this, if that is even possible. From hood's not opening to parking brakes jamming, this can be tough on a new driver.
The lack of maintenance/repair history is really tough. I'm at the point of replacing the following as soon as I get one of these cars, just for good measure...
1. Timing Belt.
2. PCV
3. Fuel pump relay.
4. Ignition switch.
5. Parts in the 30 & 60k service recomendations.
6. Pull the door panels and inspect the latch clips.
7. Service the tranny.
Then go from there with problems.
I have heard a lot about the stage 0 process but haven't seen a good write up about the process.
The lack of maintenance/repair history is really tough. I'm at the point of replacing the following as soon as I get one of these cars, just for good measure...
1. Timing Belt.
2. PCV
3. Fuel pump relay.
4. Ignition switch.
5. Parts in the 30 & 60k service recomendations.
6. Pull the door panels and inspect the latch clips.
7. Service the tranny.
Then go from there with problems.
I have heard a lot about the stage 0 process but haven't seen a good write up about the process.
#6
#7
#8
#9
#10
Sounds like Hood latch adjustments should be done every now and then, even if its just to snug up the bolts..
Little advise on the cables though... Spray them every oil change with "Cable Life" thats what I have done since the car was new and I have never had a cable problem, hood, brake, throttle or other..
Here is a link for the cable life--->Cable Life Cable Lube Kit - MotoDepot
I order it direct from the distributor thru the shop, but a can usually lasts me 3 or 4 years
Little advise on the cables though... Spray them every oil change with "Cable Life" thats what I have done since the car was new and I have never had a cable problem, hood, brake, throttle or other..
Here is a link for the cable life--->Cable Life Cable Lube Kit - MotoDepot
I order it direct from the distributor thru the shop, but a can usually lasts me 3 or 4 years
#11
The exact same part can wear out a couple different ways. Usually if it isn't releasing and you feel you're pulling that handle as much as you dare, taking the pressure off the latch(s) will allow the release mechanism to ... release. But it doesn't cure the problem. Either it needs a good cleaning and greasing, spray lithium is wonderful for latches and hinges as it's an aerosol and it sticks or it's time to shorten the cable, replace the cable or replace or adjust the latch.
Our latches are adjustable and if you install one too far down not only will the hood edge be below the fender edge but the rubber bumper will be trying to force the latch to NOT open because of the pressure.
My 88 chev PU opens after I pull the release and walk around front and bang my fist once right in the center. I've tried cleaning, lubing and it's just trained me to expect to need that "thump" to get it to open.
While you are at it, grease the safety release mechanism too! I couldn't get my hood open and found out it had pretty much seized in place. As often as I'm in there I didn't even think of it and at first it seemed it was the latch as the hood wouldn't pop up. Once I freed up those parts that articulate just behind the grill the hood popped up nicely.
Our latches are adjustable and if you install one too far down not only will the hood edge be below the fender edge but the rubber bumper will be trying to force the latch to NOT open because of the pressure.
My 88 chev PU opens after I pull the release and walk around front and bang my fist once right in the center. I've tried cleaning, lubing and it's just trained me to expect to need that "thump" to get it to open.
While you are at it, grease the safety release mechanism too! I couldn't get my hood open and found out it had pretty much seized in place. As often as I'm in there I didn't even think of it and at first it seemed it was the latch as the hood wouldn't pop up. Once I freed up those parts that articulate just behind the grill the hood popped up nicely.
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JeannieBeannie
Volvo 850
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03-06-2019 01:29 PM